Installing a utility sink in the laundry room

[atgcpaul]

We have a washer/dryer in the basement and I'd like to install a utility sink
next to the washer. There are only hot/cold hookups for the washer. The
utility sinks I saw at HD seem like they need their own water lines. Is it possible
to split off the water supply so the washer can share with the sink?

Thanks, Paul

[bmyers]

I've seen a faucet at Lowes, prolly HD too but it's a faucet with hot/cold hookups for the washer, all in one.

[JR]

Is it possible
to split off the water supply so the washer can share with the sink?

Sure. Why not put a t-connector in at the valves and run two lines over to the sink? Make sure to put two shut-off valves on the inputs to the sink, in case you need to do maintenance.

JR

[crokett]

Another option to consider is to fab up threaded parts that simply screw on to the existing connections for the washer. Make them with a T so you can screw the washer hoses to them and then screw the sink supply lines to them also.

[atgcpaul]

Another option to consider is to fab up threaded parts that simply screw on to the existing connections for the washer. Make them with a T so you can screw the washer hoses to them and then screw the sink supply lines to them also.

Forgot one thing. How do I share the drain with the washer? The sink drain
is much lower than the opening of the drain pipe that the washer uses.

[crokett]

Forgot one thing. How do I share the drain with the washer? The sink drain
is much lower than the opening of the drain pipe that the washer uses.

Replumb the drain line. You have to do that anyway. Add a T and take that back up to the washer drain Just above that add a T to the sink drain. You want the washer coming into the drain below the sink else the washer when it drains may back up into the sink and overflow...

[DaveStL]

Replumb the drain line. You have to do that anyway. Add a T and take that back up to the washer drain Just above that add a T to the sink drain. You want the washer coming into the drain below the sink else the washer when it drains may back up into the sink and overflow...

You may need a vent for the sink, too. For a 1-1/2 inch drain line, typical code is you need a vent if you're going more than 3-1/2 feet to the stack. (I've seen references rather than the codes themselves, so I don't know if you have to correct that length for bends.) Might be able to use a charcoal filter vent on the sink to avoid tearing up a wall.

Dave

edit: deleted reference to larger drain

[Tom Slick]

it might not be code but if you tie into the drain line for the washer the pipe for the washer will act as the vent. you could also use an "air admittance valve" which is often used on "island sinks".

[scorrpio]

If you can shut off the water upstream, I'd cut into the pipe just above the washer valve, solder in the tees and go from there. If the pipes are in a finished wall you don't want to mess up to much, you'll be better off using some brass tees and nipples. Tees go onto the washer valves, nipples go into other outlets on the tees, washer hose on one nipple, hose to the sink on the other. That's the easy part. Washers fill via an air gap, so pressure is of no concern even when you run the sink during washer cycle.

Now the drain.
The question is how high is the drain line running from washer to stack. If it is high all the way, you'll need to cut into the stack, move the drain connection lower, and lower the entire line as well. That is the worst case. Hope that the line goes closer to the floor soon after the washer.

Now, you already should have that line properly vented - either by being close to stack or having a dedicated vent. When you lower the drain line, you'll just need to extend the vent.

The good news is that your washer and sink can share the same P-trap. You put a tee into the sink's tailpipe above the trap, extend a pipe from it to a height above the washer's flood rim, and stick the washer discharge hose into that pipe. If the sink rim is higher than washer rim (and it should be), you can simply hook the discharge hose onto the sink. Either way, washer must discharge into a trap via an air gap in order to prevent backsiphonage. If the existing drain is adequate, you should have no overflow problems, especially if you don't run the sink while the washer is discharging.

[atgcpaul]

I'd like to revisit this issue. I got distracted and didn't get to it. This weekend
we might be getting 2 dogs so having a utility sink is now an even bigger
priority because I don't want to take them to my tub for their bath.

Anyway, here's a pic of the current washer drain setup. I can handle Teeing
off the hot and cold. What do I do about the drain? Can I tie into the
existing drain pipe leading down from the washer?

[toolguy1000]

the answer may be yes, but i would think there is a greater probability the answer would be no. the washer drain seems to be fairly high up off the floor. i am assuming the pipe that is on the waste side of the p trap is the vent. any laundry/slop sink would need to be vented and i don't know what your codes are like in your municipality, but our codes are really strict (e.g., we can't use pvc for DWV. only copper, cast iron or galvanized.) there may be plumbing parameters dealing with heights of drains and vents that are in close proximity to each other that need to be followed in your area. once you know what the local codes are, you'll know what you are in for and how you can do what you want to do so it doesn't cause any violations or problem situations down the road. i'd go see my plumbing inspector and real nicely ask him how you can do what you're planning.

[crokett]

Yes, you can tie into the drain pipe leading down from the washer. Do this with a sweep wye and not a straight one. The pipe on the right appears to be your vent. You can also tie the sink drain into the vent stack. I see you have the trap for the washer at the bottom near the floor. I am not sure if you will have to move that up above the tie in from the sink.

[crokett]

Yes, you can tie into the drain pipe leading down from the washer. Do this with a sweep wye and not a straight one. A plumber told me the reason once, but I forget what it is. Also, the drain appears to be threaded into the white box up on top. Getting the new fitting in will be interesting depending on how easy it is to take that box off. I would take the box off, cut the pipe, insert the new fitting then put the pipe back on. Otherwise you will be fighting to get the new fitting in. A fernco rubber one would work but they are expensive.

The pipe on the right appears to be your vent. You can also tie the sink vent into the vent stack. I see you have the trap for the washer at the bottom near the floor. I am not sure if you will have to move that up above the tie in from the sink.

[cabinetman]

the answer may be yes, but i would think there is a greater probability the answer would be no. the washer drain seems to be fairly high up off the floor. i am assuming the pipe that is on the waste side of the p trap is the vent. any laundry/slop sink would need to be vented and i don't know what your codes are like in your municipality, but our codes are really strict (e.g., we can't use pvc for DWV. only copper, cast iron or galvanized.) there may be plumbing parameters dealing with heights of drains and vents that are in close proximity to each other that need to be followed in your area. once you know what the local codes are, you'll know what you are in for and how you can do what you want to do so it doesn't cause any violations or problem situations down the road. i'd go see my plumbing inspector and real nicely ask him how you can do what you're planning.

This advice is what I would follow. Getting correct advice for your area may save grief later. Our City inspectors will answer homeowners questions.
.

[toolguy1000]

in out municipality, tieing a drain into a vent stack would be a violation as it would convert the vent to a wet vent. the purpose of the vent is to provide make up air so the drain performs without gurgling, as happens when pouring liquid from a gallon jug quickly. this type of situation occurred on an episode of this old house when a HO wanted a third floor bath and thought the drains could be tied into what looked like an existing drain. it was, in fact, a vent line and the local code didn't support the resulting wet vent. just my $.02.