howto fab stock for raised panels?

[xcross]

Hi,
I'm teaching myself cabinetry from books and internet fora. I've started a project and am to the point of building the raised panel doors. I'm trying to get all my material from my local home depot which has a good selection of 3/4" red oak in varying widths.

What is the best way to join planks into a panel that I can then route as the raised panel in my doors? A friend told me biscuit joiner is the way to go. Is that correct?

Thanks,
Chris

[cabinetman]

Depending on what machinery you have, such as a jointer or planer, buying dimensional stock at the home centers may get you by. You'll be using whatever thickness is available.

As for edge work on the individual sections, you can joint them on the table saw, and get very good results. Alternate the endgrains, so each section is the opposite of the one next to it. Using biscuits is not necessary. You can edge glue the sections and use clamps. Alternate the clamps so all are not on top or bottom of the glue up. To get alignment, use cauls, which are simply straight boards used on edge on top and bottom across the boards of the sections clamped to keep the sections flat.

The panel can be handplaned or block sanded flat after glue up. Excess glue can be scraped off.
.

[LCHIEN]

prior to making panels you need to joint and plane the individual boards. so they are flat and have smooth straight edges at right angles to the face.

Biscuit joiners are good tools to use for joining the above boards together, they will help keep them in alignment while gluing them together. Glued boards can be kept in alignment without them but it'll help prevent accidents where they shift since the glue is slippery before curing and you can have a lot of glue joints in a panel to keep aligned.

[Brian G]

If you do choose to use biscuits, make sure that you place them far enough in from the end of the panel so that they don't show when you route panel.

[twistsol]

I always use a glue joint router bit with great results. Mine is from Sommerfeld's, MLCS has them also and their instructions are better. The setup is a bit finicky

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katana_bits9.htm

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Reversible-Glue-Joint-Bit-1-3_4CD-1-3_16TH1_2SH/productinfo/01008/

[smorris]

If you use cauls remember to put tape or wax paper over them so they don't end up glued to the panel with the squeeze out. You only forget that particular lesson once.

[phi1l]

I always use a glue joint router bit with great results. Mine is from Sommerfeld's, MLCS has them also and their instructions are better. The setup is a bit finicky

Do you use a glue joint router bit for raised panels?

[ironhat]

Do you use a glue joint router bit for raised panels?

I wouldn't think so. You would see the joint profile at the top and bottom edge of the panel where the bit cut the profile.

[twistsol]

Do you use a glue joint router bit for raised panels?

Yes, I do. If you do a good job matching the grain of the pieces being joined, you rarely see the joint on the end grain. Sometimes it shows as a slight diagonal line in the joint. You need to be sure the panel raising bit doesn't cut too deeply or you may see a strong horizontal line. in the joint.

[pelligrini]

I'm trying to get all my material from my local home depot which has a good selection of 3/4" red oak in varying widths.

I used to get a lot of my stock from HD and Lowes. Especially before I got a planer and a jointer. I finally started going to a couple local lumberyards and got it for much less than HD sells for. One of the yards sells to one of the stores. You can save a big chunk of change at the lumberyards.

+1 on the cauls. They can help a lot, especially if you don't have a big flat assembly table.

[JimD]

I use the table saw to get a straight enough edge for the glueup and I do not use biscuits unless the piece is really large. They don't hurt anything, however, as long as you keep them away from the edges. I use pipe clamps or bar clamps (my only bar clamps are 2 feet so for bigger stuff I use the pipe clamps). I flatten the resulting panel with a belt sander and oscillating sanger. Sometimes I just use the oscillating sander.

I try to let the panel dry overnight before I route the edges but I sometimes sand after letting the glue set an hour or two. I also orient my boards for consistency in grain pattern and color, I do not pay any attention to the growth ring orientation. I finish the panel and inside edge of the frame (not putting finish where the glue goes, however) prior to glue-up. I want to avoid that nasty appearance where the panel shrinks away from the frame and suddenly you have an unfinished edge.

Jim

[Black wallnut]

Lots of good information here so far. Notice also that not every one agrees. However they are all work. I prefer to use biscuits. I match for grain and color without regard to growth rings; although only for panels that are captured by a frame which is what you are asking about. The frame will keep the panel flat.