How do I make this cut

[jussi]

Saw an interesting vid from FWW about making a planer sled. How would I make the 15 degree slots for the supports on this video.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...e.aspx?id=5245

[just started]

I would do it on the router table. Use a 1/4" straight bit
(or whatever size you want you slot width to be) and run the square strips through resting on a slightly wider but shorter wedge cut to the angle you want to use. You can then cut your wedge into the thin pieces to use in the jig.

Looks like a cool idea, let us know how it turns out and if it works. And don't forget, no pix means it didn't happen!

[Black wallnut]

Start with a wider board. cut the slots with a dado set and then bevel rip to 15° would be another method.

[dbhost]

I'm thinking router table, and some sort of shim to hold your 15 degree angle, a simple dado through that and you are done...

[Ed62]

I'd be interested in hearing how it works out for you too. Neat idea.

Ed

[JR]

I think Mark's got it right. No need to fool around with complicted shims. Just cut the grooves, then rip to tops and bottoms at 15 degrees.

JR

[jussi]

Start with a wider board. cut the slots with a dado set and then bevel rip to 15° would be another method.

That's a good idea. I would have to rip all four sides 15 degrees though right?

[LCHIEN]

That's a good idea. I would have to rip all four sides 15 degrees though right?

No, I think you rip two adjacent sides to a 15 degree tilt, then bring the saw blade tilt back to 0° and then rip the remaining two sides parallel to the first two cuts.

However since you have to make several, I would personally create a small carrier that would rest against the face of the TS miter fence. The front of the carrier would be tilted 15 degrees and the back also 15 degree off horizontal. The place the square block onto the carrier and push through the blade with the mitre fence. The workpiece will be off the table by a bit when it passes the blade, but your cut would not be too deep.

The make this carrier,
take a 2x2 square block of wood, maybe 12" long.
Tilt the blade 15° and make two partial rip cuts giving the carrier as shown (end view shown):

[JR]

The companion article has only this to say:
"This is done on the tablesaw with

a dado set, using a sled that carries the support

block at a 15° angle."

JR

[poolhound]

I have a sled that I use with my planer but use wedges and shims to support the board. I read this article a while back and was considering adding these adjustable supports.

I will be very interested to see how you get on.

Do report back soon.

[mpauly]

I built this sled and cut the grooves with a simple carrier just like loring posted. Make sure you cut your wedges the same angle as your grooves so that as you raise the bars they stay parallel to the sled's bed. If they are off by just a few degrees, the bars start getting out of parallel and very little will make contact with the board, allowing it to shift as it passes through the planer.

I built a smaller 4' version and it works pretty well once I figured out the wedge angle issue.

Michael