lap joints on the router table

[tlt]

Hi all,

I recently received a newsletter that shows how to do lap joints on the table saw here:

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/TablesawTechniques/LapJoints/index.html

I don't have a dado setup on my table saw, but would like to try this on the router table. Here's my question: would you route the lap joints from the inside and work your way to the edge (as shown in the tablesaw pics), or would you start on the edge and nibble your way in?

Thanks for your help,
--tlt

[LCHIEN]

it really doesn't matter which way you go in the TS. I've done that joint many times.
I like to use the step off block they show, I'll do the inside most cut first using the step off block, then go and work my way from the end to the first cut, just because. Doing an inside lap joint, I'll start at the end away from the step off block and work my way to the step-off block - this makes you be careful at the start when you are most careful and stops you automatically at the end when you tend to be on cruise control.

With a router, you may want to do the end first going in. Why? Because with the router bit the primary cutting is on the side of the bit - cutting from the end in you only cut on one side of the bit lessening the load whereas a cut in the middle of the board would cut on both sides of the bit doubling the first cut load.

[Popeye]

With a router always start from the end and work in. Otherwise you end up with the situation of cutting with the wood between the bit and fence. This is very dangerous other than doing a dado or a groove joint. Pat

[poolhound]

I would cut a kerf for the shoulder cut first on the TS. I would assume you have multiple to do as it takes 2 laps to make a joint and a one jointed project would be very interesting. Therefore, you may find it easier to gang and clamp a bunch together affix a guide or straight edge and then route out the lap to the shoulder cut using a handheld rather than a table mounted router.

[pecker]

I would cut a kerf for the shoulder cut first on the TS. I would assume you have multiple to do as it takes 2 laps to make a joint and a one jointed project would be very interesting. Therefore, you may find it easier to gang and clamp a bunch together affix a guide or straight edge and then route out the lap to the shoulder cut using a handheld rather than a table mounted router.

Actually, if possible, I would route the lap on a very wide board held against the router table fence. Then cut the board up into the individual pieces. This would be safer than trying to push a long narrow stick across the router bit. And you will only get tearout at the very end, rather than on each individual piece.

[tlt]

Thanks to all for the help -- with a bit spinning that fast, I sure don't want to learn the hard way!

[RodKirby]

Kirby approach.

A cleat runs along the front edge of the router table - great for tenons AND for lapjoints. Takes 2 (or more) passes but can be set up VERY precisely...

[just started]

Why not do the whole job on the table saw with the same setup you would use for cutting a tenon cheek?

[Duff]

I apologize for temporarily 'jacking' your thread. . .

but did anyone notice Rods 2nd picture?

IT HAS SAWDUST! ! !

[RodKirby]

but did anyone notice Rods 2nd picture?

IT HAS SAWDUST! ! !

Just for you