So how do I know when I need a new blade?

[JonW]

I've had my BT3100 for almost 2 years now. Unfortunately I don't use it much at all- work gets in the way of fun, you know. Anyways, I think it doesn't cut through wood quite as easily as it used to. Although I could be imagining that. It's the blade that came with the saw. So how do you know when it's time for a new blade?

Also, any recommendations for a good, general purpose blade? I'm not the type to change the blade for different jobs. I don't mind spending the extra money on a good blade. Some discussions here on this site suggest that Freud LU88, the Forrest WWII 40 and 30 are pretty good.

Thanks!

-Jon

[scmhogg]

Jon,

I have the WWII 40. It stands head and shoulders above my stock [Freud] blade and an Oldham.

You might try cleaning the blade before you replace it. A little pitch build up can radically alter the blade's performance.

Steve

[steve-norrell]

In my very limited experience, the blades get dull and dirty so gradually that I really don't notice it until I either clean the blade or put on a new one. Then the difference is obvious.

I try to remember to clean the blade periodically and to get it sharpened or replaced every year or so. During the cleaning a careful inspection of the carbide tips would reveal any broken teeth and other problems warrenting professional attention.

Regards, SN

[SARGE..g-47]

As others have stated, clean the pitch off first. If you stil notice that the cuts are burning.. saw seeming to bog and take longer.. producing rough edges.. etc. then replace it as it is most likely dull at that point.

I rip so much hard-wood I have to change blades about every 2 or 3 projects. With as little as you stated you use yours.. should be once every blue moon.

[Knottscott]

Burns, poor cuts, and/or more effort to push wood through are all indicators of dulling. As the others said, clean it first...it's quick, cheap, and effective.

That said, it's never a bad idea to buy a good blade IMHO. All three that you mentioned are great blades for slightly different reasons....which to get depends largely on what you cut and your tastes. The lower tooth count requires less feed pressure and handles thicker woods better. The higher tooth count favors cleaner cuts but won't plow through the thickest materials as easily. All will leave glue ready edges in most materials. If you do a lot of plywood, need clean crosscuts, and/or a cleaner cutting general blade, the LU88 is a great choice on it's own for material up to ~ 6/4", plus it's an excellent compliment to a 24T bulk ripping blade should you ever want to add a dedicated ripper. It's also an excellent value at normal retail of ~ $45. If you cut a lot of thick hardwoods > 1" and/or exotics that burn easily but still want a clean cut, the 30T WWII TK is tough to beat and cuts nearly as well as the 40T while offering greater range. The 40T WWII TK essentially splits the range of the other two. The Ridge Carbide TS2000TK is very similar to the 40T WWII with thicker carbide...Holbren sells it for ~ $80 shipped with "BT310" discount.

[JonW]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the helpful responses! Yes, I should start by trying to clean the blade. I’ll give that a shot and see if it helps any. If not, maybe it’s time to step up to a better blade. I cut Russian Baltic Birch plywood more than anything else. (I’m building cabinets for speakers.) So it sounds like an LU88 might be a good way for me to go.

-Jon

[LCHIEN]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the helpful responses! Yes, I should start by trying to clean the blade. I’ll give that a shot and see if it helps any. If not, maybe it’s time to step up to a better blade. I cut Russian Baltic Birch plywood more than anything else. (I’m building cabinets for speakers.) So it sounds like an LU88 might be a good way for me to go.

-Jon

in order of things to do:
clean the blade so there's no visible pitch
Sharpen the blade until the sharpener guy tells you there's no more carbide thickness left (at least four or five sharpenings for a cheap blade, 10-20 for a good blade.)
Buy a new blade.

You could buy a new blade to get a better performing blade or get different cutting characteristics but you already said you would prefer a general purpose blade and not change for tasks. You could also buy a new blade to have one to use while yours is out for a week for sharpening.
But you dshouldn't have to buy a new blade if all it needs is cleaning or sharpening.

[JimD]

For plywood, I think an ATB would be best. My Freud all around has a flat raker tooth that improves ripping in solid wood but I doubt it does any good for plywood. I have half a dozen or more blades but usually use either the original blade that came with the BT3100, a 24 tooth ripper (for thick rips but does surprisingly well in plywood when sharp), or either a Freud or DeWalt 50 tooth with 40 teeth ATB grind and 10 flat topped rippers. It's also good to have some sort of cheap blade or other blade you do not care much about for cutting wood that could have a nail.

Jim

[JonW]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the further thoughts. Maybe I'll get a chance to clean the blade this weekend, and see if that helps at all.

Just wondering: How do you change the blade in the BT3100? I had a quick look at the manual last night and didn't see anything too specific. I'd guess use the 2 wrenches that came with the saw and just start taking things apart...?

And I could not find those wrenches anywhere. They must be in one of those safe places that I'll never forget about. I may have to call Ryobi and order the new wrenches when/if it's time to change that blade. Not a big deal, but I'm not the kind of guy who can't find things. I'm pretty organized. So when something does go missing it's frustrating.

[JimD]

The BT3100 is made to use one wrench behind the blade to stop it's rotation and another to loosen the nut. If you do not have either, you could jamb wood into the blade to keep it from moving and use a regular wrench or socket on the nut.

Steps are 1 - unplug the saw. 2 - remove the throat plate. 3 - raise the blade sufficiently to easily access the nut. 4 - remove the nut, then outside washer, then blade.

Jim

[LCHIEN]

Additional Major blade changing hints:
1. The nut that holds the blade on and the threaded arbor are left handed threads, reverse from all other threads you'll encounter. I find it easyest to stand to the left of the saw and address the side of the blade. In that case turn the end of the wrench to your right to loosen the nut.
2. When returning the nut to the arbor, don't overtighten. doing so will warp the blade. The left hand thread (ah there's a reason for this madness) is so that normal rotation of the saw blade in use will tighten the blade rather than loosen it, so there's no need to overtighten. Turn the nut carefully (avoid cross threading) by hand until its bottomed out, then use the wrench to turn it maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn to tighten it.
3. Finally, Don't drop the nut and washer into the saw when you take them off. It's just really annoying to have to fish them out!

The arbor nut takes a 3/4" wrench. the supplied flat wrenches (one 3/4" and one 1/2") provide a way to lock the arbor with the second wrench in the slot to the right of the blade opening. The 1/2" wrench is for the nuts on the blade guard holder.

[Schleeper]

I bought my BT3000 used, and the seller had lost the wrenches. I came up with a decent substitute for the small hex wrench: an allen wrench. Use the largest one that fits, and drop the long end into one of the two spaces in the slot that straddles the arbor behind the blade. Loosening the arbor nut doesn't require any special wrench; you just need to remember that it has left-handed threads.

[JonW]

Guys,

You are all really quite helpful. What a great group of people. I don't post much here but I've learned a lot. Thanks for the additional help. Very useful tips on blade changing.

This weekend I'll clean up the blade and then I've got some wood to cut. We'll see if it works better after that. If not, I'll get myself a new blade. Probably that Lu88. Heck, I admit to being curious as to the difference a new blade might make.

The only thing I really need in life is more time to play with these toys.

[George Cole]

What ever happened to English? Was that a World War II blade? What is a ATB? Give me a break I'm old and slow..

George Cole

[JonW]

Hey Fellas,

I cleaned up the blade a little, with some mineral spirits. Mostly just the side of the blade because cleaning the teeth isn't so easy or safe. Although I tried cleaning the teeth just with a cloth and mineral spirits. And I think it's working a little better. Thanks for the tip. I wouldn't have guessed that such a small thing would help.

But I'll probably still buy a better blade. Partly because I'll need it at some point soon. And partly because I'm curious as to the difference it will make. Yesterday, while using my router, I switched from a quite old bit to a new one of the same style. And the difference was amazing.



George-

Sorry I can't help you there. I'm not too old yet. But I am slow.