If you had to cut a long miter how would you do it

[sawsall]

I have a small challenge ahead of me and was wondering how the helpful people here would handle it.

I have to cut a miter in a countertop for my kitchen at a 45 degree angle. I have a few tools to choose from what would be my best bet? My FIL has a radial arm saw, but I haven't seen it so I don't know the make model, but what I'm most concerned with is the length that it can cut at. I have a circular saw, jigsaw, bt3100, dewalt scms. I've already got one pretty close to good, however for some reason in the middle it comes away a bit. Take a straight edge to both pieces and you can see maybe about 1/16" in the middle of one piece, the other piece perfectly straight. I used a 45 degree jig and a circular saw to cut those. I don't know how I got the goof in the middle Or if how I'm jigging is the actual issue. Any ideas/suggestions? The counter is a 26 inch deep post formed with a 4 inch backsplash and a 5/8 double rounded edge(similar to bullnose just a little longer) so this is a tad bit challenging since it is not flat. I am cutting it this weekend so any helpful hints would be appreciated.
Dan

[sawsall]

How do you make a 36" miter on the table saw? and remember this is no small piece, it is a 10 foot section of post formed countertop.

Dan

[silverfox]

First of all, Dan, make SURE the angle you want is EXACTLY 45 degrees. Of all those that I have cut I don't think there was EVER one where the walls were exactly square....especially on a ten foot projection. Second, you are smart to cut a few patterns like you did to test out the exact angle. I have used chip board or even heavy paper to cut patterns to be sure that I have the correct angle. If you have some 1/8" hardboard it would be a good material to use for the pattern, although a bit more expensive. But you want to be right when you cut the counter top...there are no second chances unless you cut them on the wide side. You need to make the pattern as long as the counter top and not just the actual corner...it will help you to see where and how much you need to scribe in the backsplash to get it even with the wall. Once you have established the correct angle of the cut and proved it with your patterns...use the patterns to mark the BACK of the countertop, clamp down your sawboard

http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm

and make the cut with your circular saw. I know this seems like a long drawn out procedure but it's the way I do things so it's the way I have to pass it on to you. It may take some time but you will KNOW you are right when you make the cut. Preparation is everything. Incidentally...when I make these cuts I hang the backsplash over the end of the table that I am sawing on. Then you can go right through it too. If your saw doesn't go all the way through to the top of the back splash...cut it the rest of the way through before you try to move the counter top from the table. HTH
Mike

[Ryan F]

In Silverfox's method you already have a accurate template. Trim close with a saw (jig if it was my choice) and then use a flush trim bit in the router.

DISCLAIMER (I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS SO I DO NOT KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT!!!!!!)

[messmaker]

It cannot be done.I have never been able to get a cut like that dead on. Good luck

[silverfox]

I like that, Ryan. It would give a nice clean butt joint and assure that there was no chip out. Having not had a router in the past and subsequently unfamiliar with them I never did that or thought of it. If one wanted to go to this extra step I think it would be a good one. I may just do what you suggest when it comes time to do the counter top on this remodel job. After all the work I do to assure that things are correct...what's one more step to assure a clean butt? Thanks for the suggestion.
Mike

[Ryan F]

quote:what's one more step to assure a clean butt?

[:0]

[jAngiel]

quote:Originally posted by silverfox

After all the work I do to assure that things are correct...what's one more step to assure a clean butt?

With my kids, the wet wipe is always the final step...

[jethro]

A friend of mine is doing this with 50-year-old church pews. The method he used is similar to Mike's and Ryan's suggestions. He used a jig with a circular saw, cut just shy of the line, and sanded the rest, test-fitting frequently. They're turning out beautifully.

quote:Originally posted by silverfox

what's one more step to assure a clean butt?

Consider this ...

http://www.bt3central.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13397

[:0]

[sawsall]

Well maybe I should get them custom made with the miters already in them. Problem is is that they cost about twice as much! Owell I've got most of my counter in and would only have to pay for the one run. I've already screwed about 4 feet of one of them up. Any idea if a radial arm saw could accomplish this or not?

[harrydurt]

quote:Originally posted by silverfox

...there are no second chances unless you cut them on the wide side. Mike

Although, if you leave the other end long - I assume it's a right angle and easier to cut - then you may have a couple of chances at the miter. First make the miter perfect, then trim the far end to the right length. It may give you some wiggle-room or a second chance.
- Richard

[scmhogg]

James,

quote:With my kids, the wet wipe is always the final step...

Aren't they awfully cold??[:0][:0]

Steve

[silverfox]

OK...OK.....I could have said butt or joint....seemingly, one is as bad as the other....[:0][B)][8]
Mike

[sscherin]

The RAS might do the job but you might have to do the cut in 2 passes. My 12" RAS only has a 16" draw.
I've done 20" miters on the RAS buy cutting flipping and carefully lining up for the 2nd cut.

[monte]

I don't think a radial arm saw will help you either. The arm isn't long enough to cut the 36". If it were me, I would go with Mike's solution.