Craftsman 21829

[ofna89]

I have been in the market as you no for my first tablesaw. I finally went out and bought the 21829. It was on sale for $430 but I kind of now the salesman and I got it for $399 plus a 2 year master protection agreement. This even includes free cleanings. Members that have the 21829 how do you like it? Anything I should lookout for before or when using it?

[gmack5]

Same as the BT3100, except for the Base

Welcome ofna89,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your 21829 Table Saw and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your 21829 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.
I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.
Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.

If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list
This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the groove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[ofna89]

Thanks gmack5 for all the info, will come in handy for sure. Right now Im going down stairs to take this out of the box and start assembly. Now some of the things you mention should be done after it is assembled? Again thanks for all the info.

[Stray_shot]

About the only thing I can offer is to tell you to make sure you have the SMT facing the right way when you mount it to the side of the unit before folding it up to put it away.

[ofna89]

I started to assemble the unit to the point of putting the rails on which isnt that far. Which way does the smt face Stray Shot? Thanks

[rlah]

I replaced the blade with a Freud 60T that I had on the cheaper TS that is now retired... others have said there was a good Freud blade on their Ryobi TS, but this Craftsman only comes with generic China blade that I didn't think was very good.

Watchout when trying to store the SMT on the backside of the cabinet... I positioned it wrong and then tried to fold up the stand for storage only to find the SMT was binding against the foot member of the stand... broke one of the plastic sliders in the SMT... not good. I'm taking it *very* easy the next time I try folding this thing into vertical position... watching closely for anything that is loose or might bind.

I really like the blade guard traveling with the blade... I made a ZCTP and keep the guard on

Other than that, the big problem is figuring out what jigs and fixtures to make first... I haven't gotten much woodworking done because I'm spending (too much) time at this place called bt3central.... trying to pick the brains of the knowledgeable and experienced people here!

I still can hardly believe the popularity of this saw and this site! I know I now have the saw for the rest of my woodworking days. It's a perfect blend of features, "compactness", and mobility. And since "service" from the manufacturers is so unsatisfactory these days, this site is my "service"... The fact that so many others are helpful here gives me assurance of solving any problem.

rlah

[Garasaki]

I got a used BT3000 a while back and its first project was to make some shop cabinets (this was a high priority job).

Since I got the cabinets installed, I've been working on a mobile base. This is not a high priority project, so I've had the luxury of using this project as an excuse to make some jigs and fixtures. The amount of time I've spent on various fixtures thus far is astounding to me. I've definately spent more time figuring out and cutting things that make the saw easier, safer, or more accurate then I have making cuts for projects.

#1 fixture: Adjustable featherboard which mounts to the fence. I feel much safer with a featherboard when cutting. I had one before, that I just clamped to the fence. Not a real good solution (PIA to adjust height and not particularly stable). There's lots of ways to skin this cat, but I choose to make a holding unit that attaches to the top of the fence and will eventually make an adjustable featherboard that uses wingnuts or similar to hold down. Makes a safety item I already had more convienent to use.

#2 fixture: Mitre slots for an eventual cross cut sled

#3 fixture: Tenoning jig that slides on the rip fence. This is a WIP.

The nice thing about putting aside time for jigs and fixtures, at this point in my woodworking experience, is it gives me a chance to practice with my tools, without putting a project at risk. Set-up and technique are the things that produce accurate and attractive cuts...and that's what I'm learning now.

[Stray_shot]

I started to assemble the unit to the point of putting the rails on which isnt that far. Which way does the smt face Stray Shot? Thanks

There is a locking tab to keep the SMT from sliding when not in use. You want to mount it to the side with the long end facing the back, which means it will be facing up once folded. I did the same thing rlah did, only I figured it out before I damaged anything. So I am extra careful now. Other than that, just make sure to adjust the feet after you set it up to give the most stable platform.

[fiasco]

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Where? I've been looking for the 21829 pdf online since I bought it. Usually sears has the manual linked on the product page but the 21829 doesn't have it.

[LCHIEN]

I replaced the blade with a Freud 60T that I had on the cheaper TS that is now retired... others have said there was a good Freud blade on their Ryobi TS, but this Craftsman only comes with generic China blade that I didn't think was very good.
....
rlah

A 60T blade is primarily for making crosscuts. You'll find it's not so swell for making rips (although it will probably make acceptable ones if you don't push too fast and the wood doesn't burn). A low tooth count like 24T with an aggressive rake (slant) to the tooth leading edge will cut rips much faster and more efficiently.

A 60T-80T blade, generally with a mode up and down (line down the front of the tooth passes close tot he bade center, is good for making clean crosscuts.

The 40-50T blades that are often found as original blades (I know the BT3000-3100 had these) is a general purpose blade suited for those making less critical cuts and not wanting to change back and forth or own too many blades.

[ofna89]

Has any of you with this ts found the instructions very vague, or could this be cause its my first ts?

[siliconbauhaus]

I'm sure as with most instruction manuals they're not very clear mate but I'm sure the good people here will help you out.

I just got a c'man bt3000 today and I havent looked at the manual yet but I'm sure it's just as bad

[rlah]

Has any of you with this ts found the instructions very vague, or could this be cause its my first ts?

Yes... that's part of the reason I'm spending so much time here... the flow of the instructions seemed 'disjointed'.... so many safety warnings get in the way of learning to use the saw safely (!)... diagrams not always available when there is a discussion of a procedure... front rail scale positioned in an odd way for achieving the correct fence position (which I believe was mentioned elsewhere on this forum.), etc. This is all part of the unsatisfactory service from most manufacturers... I can't depend on them so I need a site like this to make up for the lack of service elswhere.

LCHEIN: I heard the blade recommendation - guess I ought to be looking for a better combination blade with lower tooth count... lower than 60T. But the 60T is still better than the Craftsman generic China combo blade (in my opinion) until I get the better combo blade.

rlah

[ofna89]

This saw is frustrating me. I have a few questions regarding the use of some of the features. 1-how do I adjust the rails for proper alignment for the fence? 2-How does the sliding miter work? The instruction are very vague concerning these. Again this is my first ts with these features. Thanks

[LCHIEN]

This saw is frustrating me. I have a few questions regarding the use of some of the features. 1-how do I adjust the rails for proper alignment for the fence? 2-How does the sliding miter work? The instruction are very vague concerning these. Again this is my first ts with these features. Thanks

The rails do not adjust (except R-L to get more cutting width).
The fence is adjusted to be parallel to the blade. There's two screws in the top of the fence that can be loosened and the fence adjsuted WITH THE LOCKING LEVER HALF LOCKED so that the front is locked to the rail and the rear free.

The manual should explain all this.

You migth also find the BT3 FAQ helpful. the link is under my sig line, below.