Resawing for Beginners

[Greg.B]

Update...

First I can confirm that a 72" blade will work on a BS150LS, with no problem.

Second the "Woodslicer" blade that Iturra sells is incredible to say the least. Honestly when I first got the saw I was skeptical if I would ever be able to get any decent resawing out of it. Well slapped in the new blade and started to do some minor resawing, nothing large, but the difference immediatly was noticable. No blade drift, nothing. Blade cost $22 shipped, had it in 3 days. Great deal.

[jarhead]

how 'bout sharing Mr. Iturra's phone...

888-722-7078

[ironhat]

Hey GregB, how 'bout sharing Mr. Iturra's phone or address. I'm ready to get some gear together for this saw.

TIA,
Chiz

[Greg.B]

Spoke to Louis at Iturra. Very nice guy. Ordered up a blade (woodslicer blade) for $22 shipped. Really can't beat that. I just hope that the 72" will fit on my saw. I'll keep all posted on how things go.

[ironhat]

I just did what Sarge posted a couple of days ago per the Duginske book. I was amazed at the sharpness of the back edges and how rough the weld was. I also did the alignment and wheel balancing and replaced the tires and drive belt with a linkbelt - the vibration is gone. WHen I frst turned this saw on I thought, "What a juker", but since I bought it for $150 as a refurb I had room in my wallet for the refinements. I believe my next purchases will be a riser block from Grizz and then the appropriate blades for resawing, fine work (boxes) and general use - oh yea, better get a fence built or bought. Sorry for getting OT here.
Later,
Chiz

I will second and third what Keith and Larry have stated, but will clarify what Keith said that about grinding down the back of the blade. If I were using a bandsaw for the first time, I picture myself standing at the grinder with my BS blade with the "petal to the metal" exhibiting gusto and enthusiam. I was once young.. I think! ha.. ha...

In curve cutting especially, where the rear corner (side of blade meets the back of blade at a 90 degree angle) it will drag in the turn from friction. By taking a small sharpening stone and placing it on the table with the blade running, touch that corner and move it around to the other side several times to make sure the entire lenght of blade see's the stone. This will round off those corners and stream-line them to reduce drag (friction) resulting in a smoother cut and less chance of heating the heat sensitve carbon blade you will probably be using for curve cutting.

Also.. before you install a blade (even a more expensive quality one), view physically and run you finger along the weld to make sure there is not excessive flashing (too much sauder) which will cause a ticking sound when it hits the wheel and consequently can throw tracking and alignment off. Even the best blade manufacturers are at the mercy of an employee on the line having a "bad hair day". Monday and Friday are suspect! :>)

Regards...

[BigguyZ]

I cannot add a lot to Keith's excellent synopsis but do want to emphasize the importance of this part of his post. Mark Duginske, writing in "The Band Saw Handbook" (highly recommended, belongs on every BS owner's reference shelf), says that most band saws guides will have this problem. My Grizzly certainly does.

Great! Not that I'm happy you're having issues, but my Grizzley has the same issue. Now I'm happy that it's not that I bought a bum saw.

[Greg.B]

Well again thanks to all. I had my thrust bearing improperly setup. Well live and learn. I've still yet to conclude on what the smallest balde I can use is. I measured the one on the saw and its 72.5, that is with the tensioner all the way towards the top of its adjustment. I am hoping that I can get a 72" to fit but I was hoping to hear from others that have actually tried.

[LarryG]

A band saw really is about tune, and you tune it every time you change the blade. Mine gets tuned every time I change my cut height, as my bearing are just off tracking perfectly when I raise them.

I cannot add a lot to Keith's excellent synopsis but do want to emphasize the importance of this part of his post. Mark Duginske, writing in "The Band Saw Handbook" (highly recommended, belongs on every BS owner's reference shelf), says that most band saws guides will have this problem. My Grizzly certainly does. Like Keith, I check the guides every time I alter the cutting height by any significant amount.

Sarge has mentioned more than once, in various threads, that a band saw is a finicky beast, and he's right. Constantly checking the setup is just part of the drill. Those who set their guides at one cutting height and never thought to check it at others might be surprised at how much variation they'll likely find over the full vertical travel of the guide post.

[drumpriest]

Depending upon your guide setup, you either have blocks or bearings on the side, and then a thrust bearing. The thrust bearing sits BEHIND the blade so that when you introduce a load to the blade the bearing will keep it from moving too far.

A band saw really is about tune, and you tune it every time you change the blade. Mine gets tuned every time I change my cut height, as my bearing are just off tracking perfectly when I raise them.

The bearings or blocks on the side should be a dollar bill's thickness away from the blade, and sitting just behing the tooth gullets. (this can be tricky, try not to deflect the blade when setting these). I set my thrust bearing 2 dollar bills thickness off the back of the blade. Don't neglect your lower guides either, and set your cut height for about 1/8" higher than you need. The closer the guides to the cut, the better, so long as those guides arn't in the way.

Finally, get a good blade, woodslicer, timberwolf, olsen, all good, different people have different preferences. I use timberwolf because they are welded here in Pittsburgh, and I can pick them up straight from the facility, also I have to special order olsen or woodslicer in my length (have to call highland). I just wish they had a 5/8" blade by timberwolf, didn't last time I bought blades. Grind down the back of your blade to reduce friction when turning, or when your drift is just slightly off.

[Greg.B]

Ok I'm pretty embarrased to even ask this but where does the bearing go ? I think I have it totally incorrect. I have the bearing sitting directly next to the blade. I have found a few pics on the net that show it behind the blade verse to the side of it.

[Tom Miller]

I heard somebody say my name -- what's up?

Ah, yes, the Iturra version of the Woodslicer....

It sells for $20, vs. $30 for the "real" Woodslicer, based on a 105" band. According to the person I talked to at Iturra, they come from the same mfr, but Highland uses the trademark name "Woodslicer". The only other difference is that, to save on cost, Iturra does not have the blade wrapped in paper at the factory.

I haven't had a chance to use mine yet -- just got my new tensioner spring, rod, and crank installed. The new blade is just icing on that little cake!

Thanks again, Larry, for the tip on the blades!

Regards,
Tom

[LarryG]

Also are the Woodslicers worth the $30, or is a Timberwolf just as good ?

Can't compare them to Timberwolfs, but myself and several others here can attest to the Wood Slicer being worth every penny of that thirty bucks. Although you can purchase the exact same blade, sold under a different name (still can't remember what it is), for about $20. Ask Tom Miller about that version. Iturra Designs: 888-722-7078

[Greg.B]

Tonight my mission will be to first get the weeks co-planar. I will then work on re-adjusting the guide blocks, and bearings to make sure they are as they should be. I will also build a proper fence that will give me support when I attempt to make these cut. And last but not least order a new blade.

One issues I do have with the Delta is everywhere I look there is a different blade length. The website says 72.5, the box says 72" - I'm not sure how much of an adjustment is normal on a bandsaw. I would say that whatever the stock blade is, when fully tensioned, it almost hits the top of the case. I would be happy with using a 72" and having room to spare. I'm considering taking a string that is 72" and seeing if I can at least get that on the wheels.

Anyone else with the BS150 want to chime in ?

Also are the Woodslicers worth the $30, or is a Timberwolf just as good ? Anyone know the price on the timberwolfs ?

[AlanWS]

If you shim your wheels, check that they are coplanar with your largest blade installed and properly tensioned.

I'll also second Sarge's suggestion: the woodslicer cuts more smoothly than any other blade I've tried.

If you want to use the miter slot for crosscuts, a very narrow blade will not drift.

Michael Fortune's article in Fine Woodworking #173 describes adjusting the tracking to make the blade cut parallel to the fence, rather than adjusting the fence. Your blade must be sharp to make this work.