Resawing for Beginners

[Greg.B]

I'm going to work on making a fence tonight. I did some re-sawing and things were on the up and up. I just have to get the fence angle closer and practive on some hardwoods.

[Greg.B]

Follow up question. Once you resaw something do you have to thickness sand or plane ? Or should it be ready to go ? What is an acceptable range of diffference in thickness over say X inches of board ?

[Tom Miller]

Follow up question. Once you resaw something do you have to thickness sand or plane ? Or should it be ready to go ? What is an acceptable range of diffference in thickness over say X inches of board ?

I've yet to see a bandsaw finish that's even good enough for hand-sanding. I always plan to thickness sand or plane afterwards.

Another point to consider, for anything thicker than veneer, you should expect some wood movement after resawing; either immediately in response to released tension, and/or over the course of days/weeks, due to a change in moisture content in the newly exposed face of the stock. This means you'll need to re-dimension the piece.

Regards,
Tom

[Greg.B]

I'm starting to wonder how good the stock blade is. Its about .25" and 7tpi. It just won't track straight for resawing. Most of the wood comes out thinner on the top (closest to ceiling) and thicker on the bottom (closer to table). I made sure that the table and blade are @ 90 deg. I'm going to keep at it. Def. a new blade is needed. Thinking 1/2" which is the max for the saw.

[LarryG]

I'm starting to wonder how good the stock blade is..

Wonder no more: it's a pretty safe bet that it's cee-are-a-double-pee CRAP. The blade that came on my Grizzly G0555 was just good enough for them to be able to say, "Includes blade!" and most comments I've seen from owners of other brands indicates that this is typical.

Tossing the stock blade in favor of a quality replacement will probably make your saw seem like a completely different tool ... that was certainly the case with mine.

[LCHIEN]

I'm starting to wonder how good the stock blade is. Its about .25" and 7tpi. It just won't track straight for resawing. Most of the wood comes out thinner on the top (closest to ceiling) and thicker on the bottom (closer to table). I made sure that the table and blade are @ 90 deg. I'm going to keep at it. Def. a new blade is needed. Thinking 1/2" which is the max for the saw.

This is not a tracking issue in the sense talked about before.
If the blade is deflecting off the vertical this will cause your problem, if you are sure that the blade was 90° to the table to begin with.
Deflection occurs if the blade is not tensioned enough OR if the guides aren't set right top and bottom, the guide blocks should have just enough space for a dollar bill between the guide block and the blade which is about 4 mils (.004") so the ability to not be vertical is only 4 mil from vertical. Also make sure the upper guide assy is lowered right over the work. And make sure thethrust bearings are just forward of the blade and not allowing the blade to move away from between the guide blocks.

In the middle of making your cut you might just stop the saw and see the blade is being curved or bending between the upper and lower guide blocks. and the blade is between the guide blocks.

[SARGE..g-47]

Good morning Greg...

As stated, the stock blade is just a show-piece. A 5/8" blade that came with what is otherwise a near flawless 118" Steel City BS is hanging on the wall ready for junk cuts if necessary.

But my post was in reference to a statement you made about it's characteristics. Don't expect to do any efficient re-sawing with even the best blades with 7 TPI. That is a curve cutting blade and the 7 teeth will give a little better finish with less sanding. But.. with that many teeth it doesn't have the aggressiveness or deep enough gullets to remove waste that is required in sawing wide boards. You got gauranteed drift before the blade meets the stock.

3 TPI is the ticket for re-saw. Some use 4 TPI, but even then on tall stock it won't always hack it. I will use a 4 TPI on ripping up to about 3" stock, but prefer a 3 TPI hook even for that. Since I do a combination of both, it makes more sense for me just to stay with 3 TPI.

May I make a suggestion? Highland Woodworking www.highlandworking.com sells there Woodslicer in 1/2" and 3/4". Your saw is probably more suited for the 1/2" as the 3/4 would be pushing it. It is a thin kerf and it will get the job done with it's variable pitch. It will leave as smooth a cut as your going to get. And as Tom stated, cut a wee bit thicker so you can make a final demension as the newly opened stock will release both tension and a new door for moisture to escape.

If you feel more comfortable with say a 3/8" blade on your saw, order a 3/8" bi-metal with 3 TPI hook. The bi-metal will last longer than the standard carbon as it can take heat that re-saw generates. The stock blade you have is probably carbon steel (cheap but OK for curve cutting). By using it for re-saw as you did, more than likely you have already over-heated it and it lost it's temper and dulled. 7 TPI combined with dis-tempered and dulling added more drift to your initial problem, IMO!

Regards...

[Greg.B]

Thanks for all your help here.

Another item I will introduce is something I noticed late last night. And could be part of the problem. I found the blade to track close to the edge of the bottom wheel, while the top is in the middle. From this I assume that the wheels are not in the same plane, and that is probably what I should address first. I can't move the bottom wheel, but I can move the top out. I think if I move the top wheel out (towards me) then the blade would then move the opposite way on the lower wheel, toward the back of the saw. I think once I get that all lined up I should be at a better starting point.

I am only assuming this is a problem, but I have a feeling it is.

[scorrpio]

Everything could be a problem. There essentially is a checklist of things to go over after every blade change. Stock blade on most bandsaws is lowest quality possible. Think getting a carbide-less 'plywood blade' with your TS.
Get a quality blade, and it should improve significantly. Also, 7tpi is too fine for resawing.

[AlanWS]

If you shim your wheels, check that they are coplanar with your largest blade installed and properly tensioned.

I'll also second Sarge's suggestion: the woodslicer cuts more smoothly than any other blade I've tried.

If you want to use the miter slot for crosscuts, a very narrow blade will not drift.

Michael Fortune's article in Fine Woodworking #173 describes adjusting the tracking to make the blade cut parallel to the fence, rather than adjusting the fence. Your blade must be sharp to make this work.

[Greg.B]

Tonight my mission will be to first get the weeks co-planar. I will then work on re-adjusting the guide blocks, and bearings to make sure they are as they should be. I will also build a proper fence that will give me support when I attempt to make these cut. And last but not least order a new blade.

One issues I do have with the Delta is everywhere I look there is a different blade length. The website says 72.5, the box says 72" - I'm not sure how much of an adjustment is normal on a bandsaw. I would say that whatever the stock blade is, when fully tensioned, it almost hits the top of the case. I would be happy with using a 72" and having room to spare. I'm considering taking a string that is 72" and seeing if I can at least get that on the wheels.

Anyone else with the BS150 want to chime in ?

Also are the Woodslicers worth the $30, or is a Timberwolf just as good ? Anyone know the price on the timberwolfs ?

[LarryG]

Also are the Woodslicers worth the $30, or is a Timberwolf just as good ?

Can't compare them to Timberwolfs, but myself and several others here can attest to the Wood Slicer being worth every penny of that thirty bucks. Although you can purchase the exact same blade, sold under a different name (still can't remember what it is), for about $20. Ask Tom Miller about that version. Iturra Designs: 888-722-7078

[Tom Miller]

I heard somebody say my name -- what's up?

Ah, yes, the Iturra version of the Woodslicer....

It sells for $20, vs. $30 for the "real" Woodslicer, based on a 105" band. According to the person I talked to at Iturra, they come from the same mfr, but Highland uses the trademark name "Woodslicer". The only other difference is that, to save on cost, Iturra does not have the blade wrapped in paper at the factory.

I haven't had a chance to use mine yet -- just got my new tensioner spring, rod, and crank installed. The new blade is just icing on that little cake!

Thanks again, Larry, for the tip on the blades!

Regards,
Tom

[Greg.B]

Ok I'm pretty embarrased to even ask this but where does the bearing go ? I think I have it totally incorrect. I have the bearing sitting directly next to the blade. I have found a few pics on the net that show it behind the blade verse to the side of it.

[drumpriest]

Depending upon your guide setup, you either have blocks or bearings on the side, and then a thrust bearing. The thrust bearing sits BEHIND the blade so that when you introduce a load to the blade the bearing will keep it from moving too far.

A band saw really is about tune, and you tune it every time you change the blade. Mine gets tuned every time I change my cut height, as my bearing are just off tracking perfectly when I raise them.

The bearings or blocks on the side should be a dollar bill's thickness away from the blade, and sitting just behing the tooth gullets. (this can be tricky, try not to deflect the blade when setting these). I set my thrust bearing 2 dollar bills thickness off the back of the blade. Don't neglect your lower guides either, and set your cut height for about 1/8" higher than you need. The closer the guides to the cut, the better, so long as those guides arn't in the way.

Finally, get a good blade, woodslicer, timberwolf, olsen, all good, different people have different preferences. I use timberwolf because they are welded here in Pittsburgh, and I can pick them up straight from the facility, also I have to special order olsen or woodslicer in my length (have to call highland). I just wish they had a 5/8" blade by timberwolf, didn't last time I bought blades. Grind down the back of your blade to reduce friction when turning, or when your drift is just slightly off.