How to cut this joint

[dsellinger]

Hi, I'm new

Not entirely to woodworking, but to things of a larger scale (I've done lots of speaker box projects, a few tables, etc)
I’m also new to the BT3000. I picked up a used one last week and it should be very nice to have my own saw.

Anyway, on to my project which will be a matching toddler bed and crib. Both units done in a minimalist euro type style.

I found some other furniture that has end joints like that I would like to reproduce. It seems to be a short through mortise and tenon type joint.
Not really hard to cut (I could see doing it with a router) but my worry is that I would have to hold the wood straight up in the air to make these cuts.

Can anyone point me in a different direction as far as a safe and easy way to make a large number of joints like these?
Thanks!

[DonHo]

Do you have a bandsaw? You could cut the whole joint on a bandsaw but I'd use the BT3 to cut the shoulder cuts(If I don't have it backwards and it's the cheek cuts. How about the cuts perpendicular to the short demension of the board ) and a bandsaw for the other cut. If I didn't have a bandsaw I'd use a jigsaw for the other cuts.

DonHo

[Stytooner]

Looks like standard box or finger joints. Spacing is a bit odd from the norm, but a box joint jig would cut it.
The lumber would still need to be oriented skyward however.
A horozontal router table could do it with the parts flat on a table.
For that matter, as simple a joint as that is, a bandsaw or jigsaw could cut it. Clean up the cuts with a file or chisel.

[LCHIEN]

It's a variation on standard box joints - simpler because there's only two fingers in one and one finger in the other.

You can make all the notches on a table saw with a dado blade and the boards run through on end (you'll need a jig or fixture to hold the boards)
or you can cut the outside notches on a bandsaw and rout the inside notch on a router table and clean up the inside corners with chisel or better yet, the bandsaw.

[dsellinger]

Thanks for your answers, just the term "box joint" helped me enough with my searching. Since I don't have a band saw, and haven’t bought a Dado blade yet, I'll plan on routering.

[Stytooner]

I have also heard the term "Open Tenon" in which the mortise has only three sides. You were pretty close on your calling it a mortise and tenon to start with.
This one is much easier to produce than a standard mortise and tenon.
You typically see guys use open tenons on picture frames and the like. Personally I prefer using splines just because they are easier for me. This joint is oriented a little differently so does a box joint need more than one or two fingers? Open tenon does sound more appropriate.

[RayintheUK]

Since I don't have a band saw, and haven’t bought a Dado blade yet, I'll plan on routering.

You could easily cut the shoulders of the tenons, using a stop block and the SMT on your new BT3, but you would need to have cut the open mortices first, in order to have something to test the fit with scrap.

Routing is a good choice, although I'd make up an "L"-shaped jig, something like this (click drawing to enlarge):



The workpiece is clamped beneath the top and the cutter depth set to give you the open mortice you need. A piece of scrap clamped across the grain would prevent any tear-out, although if you take it steady and use a good-quality bit, that shouldn't be a major problem. I hope you get the idea, if not, drop me a PM and I'll try to explain further.

I would certainly NOT advise you to pass the stock vertically over a dado set, especially if you're new to the saw. Even with the use of a jig, you will not get the crisp edges and corners you'll need for this joint that you will get with a router, which is especially important if you don't want a visible glue line in the finished project. HTH

BTW - Welcome to the Forum!

Ray.

[dsellinger]

Thanks Ray, that looks like a simple way to go, and a jig that like should be easy to make.

[meika123]

Why not just nibble them out on the BT, like Norm does.

Dave in NC

[LCHIEN]

Why not just nibble them out on the BT, like Norm does.

Dave in NC

well, perhaps because he did say he wanted to make a large quantity of them...

[meika123]

well, perhaps because he did say he wanted to make a large quantity of them...

So-----do a lot of nibbling.

Dave in NC

[dsellinger]

My nibblers get tired really quick.

[meika123]

My nibblers get tired really quick.

That's odd-so do mine.

Dave in NC

[RayintheUK]

Why not just nibble them out on the BT, like Norm does.

Dave in NC

The downside to nibbling the open mortice is that it's quite difficult to get a very clean top to the cut (depending on the blade fitted - I'm not saying that it's impossible, just difficult). Without a totally clean mortice, there will be a visible glue line and the joint will not look as good as the one in the original picture.

I'll often nibble away tenons, but they're not seen in the finished joint. This joint is much more exposed, therefore needs to be a lot cleaner to start with. That's why I think that routing with a jig is the way to go for repeatable success in this project.

Ray.

[dsellinger]

Just wanted to say thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions. It has been a little while but after another coat of Poly, and then attaching the parts that will hold the mattress I will be done.

I ended up running the pieces vertically on the router table. After clamping 3 or 4 cut pieces together and then to a 90 deg brace, things were pretty stable.

Whole thing is made from old leftover maple flooring, planned down, and then laminated and cut into boards. Matching mini nightstand and portacrib sized crib are in the works. The bed is toddler sized.