Safety routing question

[jarhead]

I must admit that it was stupid of me and I should have asked the question earlier. I flush-trim routed (on a router table) a dresser leg using a template and my hands at times were too close for comfort to the spinning 1.5" long bit. Even using push blocks made me feel uneasy. Is there some kind of a sled or safety device that should be used for this type of routing operation.

[bigsteel15]

I must admit that it was stupid of me and I should have asked the question earlier. I flush-trim routed (on a router table) a dresser leg using a template and my hands at times were too close for comfort to the spinning 1.5" long bit. Even using push blocks made me feel uneasy. Is there some kind of a sled or safety device that should be used for this type of routing operation.

Looks to me like common sense would be the best safety device in this case and you already used that with the push stick.

[Tequila]

If you have a workpiece that can't be handled safely on a table, you can clamp the workpiece to a bench and use a handheld router. That keeps your hands away from the spinning bit.

[JR]

I was doing a similar operation two days ago. I have a push block that I thought about using, but in the end chose to use my hands. I thought the push block wouldn't get me any farther away from the bit and added the risk that it could slip off the wood.

I think you should be safe when cutting a longer piece of stock, because you can keep your hands away from the bit by carefully moving them during the cut. On small pieces you might hold the stock in screw clamp in order to keep you hands at a safe distance.

My 2c.

JR

[venkatbo]

If you have to get really close to the bit, you may want to seriously consider devices like the Grripper..


I think, such devices can be used both on the router table and a TS. In a recent WW show, I saw the Freud folks use two such grippers to rout a curved-top door panel freehand (w/template as a guide) smoothly/safely with the fence out of the way.

/venkat

[mpauly]

I'm not very experienced at routing, but if the template was on top of the work piece (with the bit's bearing at the top) and attached with double sided tape, could you have attached some sort of 'handles' to the template? Maybe some 3/4" dowels or fashion a standard shaped handle out of some 3/4" mdf or something and screw it to the template from the underside (with a countersink).

Just a thought,
Michael

[LarryG]

Use a bit guard.

Bit guards similar to these provide a large measure of safety, if your router table will accomodate them. Most insert plates and lifts have threaded holes for guide pins; the type of guard shown on the left mounts using these same holes. This particular one probably only fits the Veritas table but others are available to fit other brands. Or you can make your own from a small piece of polycarbonate and a couple 1/4-20 bolts.

Another type of guard uses a long arm that clamps to the table top, out near the edge:

I have a somewhat similar guard (no pic available, sorry) that doubles as a dust collection port. Also, Hylton and Matlack have some good ideas on this subject in "Woodworking With The Router." There are lots of ways to do it; any of them are worth doing.

[jnesmith]

I know exactly how you feel. Been there. My best advice is, if it makes you uneasy, find another way. It's a good indication that you are treading on thin ice. Lot's of good suggestions so far.

[JimD]

I have a guard like Larry's that attaches to the t-slot of the router fence. It would not work if there is a lot of curvature in the piece but typically helps with this situation. I also find it useful to pull the piece past the bit with the hand on the side that would move towards the bit stationary to keep the workpiece firmly against the bit. Instead of pushing the piece past the bit pull it past. It is the hand moving towards the bit you need to be thinking about. Another thing to be wary of is workpieces with knots or other flaws that could cause the wood to break. Lastly, I am sometimes guilty of this one but you need to keep the area you are standing in uncluttered. If you have to shift positions, you do not want your feet to slip and have to catch yourself, possibly by putting your hand where it should not go.

Jim

[jarhead]

If you have to get really close to the bit, you may want to seriously consider devices like the Grripper..

I think, such devices can be used both on the router table and a TS. In a recent WW show, I saw the Freud folks use two such grippers to rout a curved-top door panel freehand (w/template as a guide) smoothly/safely with the fence out of the way.

venkat,
I do have one Grripper, but didn't think I could use it for this operation.

... Also, Hylton and Matlack have some good ideas on this subject in "Woodworking With The Router." There are lots of ways to do it; any of them are worth doing.

Larry,
I have the book and will either make a guard or purchase one.

...Instead of pushing the piece past the bit pull it past. It is the hand moving towards the bit you need to be thinking about...

Jim,
That's exactly what I did.

[LCHIEN]

having a small or narrow workpiece is tough on a router table.

Someone suggested clamping it to a table and using a hand held router which is OK except for A) the router may tend to tilt if the workpiece is too small and B) the clamps get in the way.

That can be solved by using A) using scrap blocks to support the router base and B) using a no-profile clamps like bench dogs and B&D workmate like vises.

OTOH, I hold small piece for router table work using a large or medium size wooden hand screw clamp. It's easy to adjust the clamp so it lies flat on the table and holds the workpiece flush to the table. Then you hold the clamp and guide the piece into the spinning bit and you are 6-8 inches away!

[Holbren]

I saw somewhere a sled once that had two handles on it for you to hold and a couple toggle clamps to hold the workpiece down onto the sled. It was made for freehand routing on a table where the fence is either not used or not relevant to the task.

[Pappy]

This what you are thinking about?

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...parts%20holder

[Holbren]

This what you are thinking about?

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...parts%20holder

I don't think that's the one I saw but that's what I was talking about. Something to hold the wood in place rather than your fingers.

[Thom2]

I saw somewhere a sled once that had two handles on it for you to hold and a couple toggle clamps to hold the workpiece down onto the sled. It was made for freehand routing on a table where the fence is either not used or not relevant to the task.

I've seen several taper jigs for the TS that would work exactly the same, I think Kirby built an outstanding example of this (go figure )

Personally, I do a LOT of pretty small stuff (my handle template for the shark feeders is only about 8 or 10" long and 3" wide) with nothing more than a starting pin and a whole lot of 'attention'. I feel that the starting pin gives me a fulcrum to lever the workpiece out of the bit if the bite gets to be too 'hairy', it also allows me to ease the workpiece into the bit at any point along the cut.

I think the comment about 'what feels safe to you' is the key here tho'