Just finished setting it up

[Raymonator]

Thanks Gary, but my 3100 doesn't have a miter slot to accept such an accessory. I like the idea very much though. Is this where feather board could come in handy ? Thanks for sharing and your opinion on the Shark guard.

[bigsteel15]

Thanks Gary, but my 3100 doesn't have a miter slot to accept such an accessory. I like the idea very much though. Is this where feather board could come in handy ? Thanks for sharing and your opinion on the Shark guard.

Ray,

If I was you, I'd seriously think about getting some of the parts from the accessory kit, not the whole thing as it is ridiculous price in Canada. If you have any friends across the line, get them to get one for you.

Check out e-bay or the bargain alerts here to find the router mounting kit as well as the mitre slot accessory table. These are really the only useful parts in the kit. Komatoast (ebay seller name) might have some available.

[LCHIEN]

Thanks Gary, but my 3100 doesn't have a miter slot to accept such an accessory. I like the idea very much though. Is this where feather board could come in handy ? Thanks for sharing and your opinion on the Shark guard.

It's very easy to make an equivalent on the BT with a SMT. Better, even.
Get a 1-1/2" 5/16th hex head bolt and a matching star- or T-knob.
Remove the miter fence and bolt from the SMT.
Install the bolt thru the large hole at the top of the slot it eh SMT where you took the miter fence assy out. Make a slotted cross bar like the article says, you won't need the miter bar part.
Put the slot over the bolt int he SMT slot, and tighten the knob down to hold it. Voila. You don't even need the slot in the cross piece, you can just put a few holes and slide and lock the SMT sideways.

Don't forget to use the slide locks to keep the SMT from moving forward and back.

[gjbivin]

I haven't actually done it, but all you would need to do is to clamp a piece of scrap, with the tip rounded or pointed, to the sliding mitre table fence, then adjust it as needed. Since the guage is just needed to set the rip fence, it doesn't matter if it slides while cutting, or you can lock down the SMT with the little sliding lock on its front.

You may even be able to use the tip of the SMT fence itself for the guage.

[mschrank]

Why did you replace the OEM throat plate with one made out of masonite ? My throat plate only has 1 screw to keep it in place. Did you have to purchase anymore screws to keep your masonite throat plate in place.

I didn't see a response to this question from anyone...maybe just missed it. My throat plate uses three screws...I think the BT3001 uses four. In any case, you should have more than one. If they were not included, you can easily find some at the hardware store. I can't remember the exact size/thread, but take the one you have to the store with you.

It took me forever to replace the stock throat plate, but now that I have, I wish I would have done it sooner. The primary advantage of a ZCTP (Zero
Clearance Throat Plate) it that it keeps the wood from splintering on the bottom...especially useful when cutting plywood. I have several ZCTP's: one for the regular blade, one for the regular blade when set to 45 degree bevel, and several for various size dado's. They are fairly easy to make out of various different materials...or you can buy them from Jeff's T-nuts and (I believe) Lee's Shark Guard website (Links to both sites are at the top of the "Fourms" page). I haven't heard much good about the Ryobi ZCTP's. Do a search on "ZCTP" here and you'll find plenty of info.

[Raymonator]

Boy you boys have given me a lot to mull over. Thanks all for the great advice. I think I'll bookmark this thread for future reference. Thanks everyone, I'll see what I can come up with. This is a great forum for sure.

[bigsteel15]

It's very easy to make an equivalent on the BT with a SMT. Better, even.
Get a 1-1/2" 5/16th hex head bolt and a matching star- or T-knob.
Remove the miter fence and bolt from the SMT.
Install the bolt thru the large hole at the top of the slot it eh SMT where you took the miter fence assy out. Make a slotted cross bar like the article says, you won't need the miter bar part.
Put the slot over the bolt int he SMT slot, and tighten the knob down to hold it. Voila. You don't even need the slot in the cross piece, you can just put a few holes and slide and lock the SMT sideways.

Don't forget to use the slide locks to keep the SMT from moving forward and back.

Never thought of that. DOH
Thanks Loring.
Now I have a reason to use my (2) SMT on my new cabinet.