Dado Stack Set Up

[JR]

I finally found something that we have that you don't. NANA NANA NANA!!

Day and night coverage of the NHL playoffs?
A surplus of softwood goods?
JR

[meika123]

Ray, I believe I have them facing the right way - my set up matches the pics in the directions.

Bigsteel, is this the Sears dado set you refer to?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00932175000

It looks hauntingly similiar to the VA set I bought.

That's odd. That one looks hauntingly close to the Delta 6" I have been using for years.

Dave in NC

[ejs1097]

I also have the SD206 and haven't had a problem with it on my BT3100. It's always cut flat bottoms, I betting it's the VA as well.

That said, I have a dadoe set up questions for you experts also though since I'm pretty new to using dadoe blades myself. The freud directions says the same to put the chippers at 90 degrees from each other. Sounds simple, but what the heck does that mean? So all the chippers form a cross? Since the chippers are 180 degees that's what I interpet. If that's the case then the only thing holding the blades is tension from the nut? This kind of scares me to think a chipper might spin around a whack another chipper. They should put pictures on the instructions, the last thing I want to screw up is setting up a dadoe blade.

[LarryG]

The freud directions says the same to put the chippers at 90 degrees from each other. Sounds simple, but what the heck does that mean?

The idea is to balance the stack as closely as possible. If you use two chippers, place the arms at 90deg to each other (forming a cross, as you said). If you use three, put them 60deg apart. If you use all four, put them 45deg apart.

And yes, the only thing holding the various elements of the stack in place is the pressure from the nut (but that is all that's needed). The teeth on adjacent cutters MUST clear each other ... otherwise the stack won't be flat, and it won't cut the width of groove you require.

[offthemark]

The idea is to balance the stack as closely as possible. If you use two chippers, place the arms at 90deg to each other (forming a cross, as you said). If you use three, put them 60deg apart. If you use all four, put them 45deg apart.

And yes, the only thing holding the various elements of the stack in place is the pressure from the nut (but that is all that's needed). The teeth on adjacent cutters MUST clear each other ... otherwise the stack won't be flat, and it won't cut the width of groove you require.

I have found the 45deg setup difficult. If I'm using 4, I put all four 180deg each swith. So 1 and 3 and roughly parallel and 2 and 4 are roughly parallel but offset from 1 and 3 180deg.

[bigsteel15]

Day and night coverage of the NHL playoffs?
A surplus of softwood goods?
JR

The hockey goes without saying. Except GO FLAMES (for tonight only)
After tonight..
GO OILERS!!!

The softwood thing...too political. Besides, I'd rather have your hardwood prices now that I'm into this.

[Cain]

I tried to reset my setup last night. Although the grooves were not as bad, they were still there. I'm taking the VA set back today.

Thanks for all of the responses. I may get the Avenger or spring for the Freud.

Cain

[vaking]

Speaking of VA as well as Sears dado sets - I believe those sets are steel without any carbide. Higher end dado sets have carbide teeth. They last many times longer.

[JimD]

Cain,

I have the same Vermont American set in the bottom of a drawer in my shop. I used it until it got dull, it didn't take long, and it never cut flat bottoms. I suspect it is the dado set and not you. I have not tried the Avenger, it seems others have had good experience with it and it is probably worth a try. I have the cheapest Freud set, it was under $100, and recommend it highly. I have purchased 3 stacked sets and one wobble dado and until the Freud, I was just wasting money.

It isn't hard to know if you've installed the blades and chippers correctly. If you turn the saw on and the nut stays tight, you installed things OK. The only trick is to avoid the cutting part of any of the blades from aligning with each other. I have installed it incorrectly and the consequence is the dado set will promptly align itself correctly and the arbor nut will be loose. You won't make much of a cut before this happens. I typically do a test cut before the real cut so I did not ruin anything but it's a better idea to install things correctly (of course).

On the BT3100 you remove the spacer off the arbor shaft that is closest to the width of dado you are cutting. There is one about 1/2, one about 1/4 and removing both is right for a dado about 3/4. You use both blade washers with the dado set (inner and outer).

Jim

[bigsteel15]

Cain,
On the BT3100 you remove the spacer off the arbor shaft that is closest to the width of dado you are cutting. There is one about 1/2, one about 1/4 and removing both is right for a dado about 3/4. You use both blade washers with the dado set (inner and outer).

Jim

Do you not find it rubs the housing if you remove both spacers, or am I missing something? On mine the carbide teeth just barely rub the housing.

[jziegler]

Brian,

What size dado stack do you have? I ran a 6" without the spacers, and it's just fine. If you have an 8" stack, there could be clearance issues.

And I'll go on the record saying that the Avenger set has been good for me so far.

Jim

[bigsteel15]

Brian,

What size dado stack do you have? I ran a 6" without the spacers, and it's just fine. If you have an 8" stack, there could be clearance issues.

And I'll go on the record saying that the Avenger set has been good for me so far.

Jim

I have the 6" carbide set from Sears.
I should probably check again because I might be OK when I tighten everything up. It just made me nervous when I had it finger tight and rubbed. Maybe the teeth are too wide, or the kerf is too narrow on my set.

[LCHIEN]

Ray, I believe I have them facing the right way - my set up matches the pics in the directions.

Bigsteel, is this the Sears dado set you refer to?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00932175000

It looks hauntingly similiar to the VA set I bought.

I have that set stashed in a closet somewhere. Bought 7-8 years ago.
Its made by VA, identical to the VA set.

The differences between it and a nice Freud set are:
only goes to 9/16 inch the Freuds usually go to 13/16"
The blades are HSS, the Freud is carbide tipped, will stay sharp a lot longer.

If you are making the first cut and the groove is only 1/2" wide, then you won't see a lot of difference. Mkae a wider cut and make a lot of cuts you will see a difference!



re: size of dado grooves - my Freud SD308 is right on as far as widths are concerned. I stack the two outside blades plus the 1/8th chippers and 1/16th chipper and it always comes out exactly as the sume of those parts. I hear al ot of compaints that teh avengers don't add up right.

re: angle of chippers. I don't exert a lot of care in getting them spaced out evenly, just not overlapping. never had a problem, they are balanced no matter what their relative position.


re: BT3x, with 8" sets you have to leave the 1/4 spacer on, you will have trouble getting the last blade of a wide stack (3/4" or greater) to not sit on the threads and risk a non-flat bottom. Might even have to leave off the outside blade washer. With 6" stack you can take off all the spacers and the widest stack will work fine (all blades and washers on the arbor).

[Pappy]

I tried to reset my setup last night. Although the grooves were not as bad, they were still there. I'm taking the VA set back today.

Thanks for all of the responses. I may get the Avenger or spring for the Freud.

Cain

Think you are making a wise decision. VA is a brand to stay away from. You won't regreat coughing up the bucks for the SD 206.

[JimD]

I agree with Loring's comments. I can install a 8 inch dado set with no washers on my BT3100 but it touches slightly. I use a 6 inch set and it does not touch. I use the inner blade washer, however, and I suspect that could be the issue if you have touching. No spacers but both inner and outer washers.

Jim