Favorite TS Blade Poll

**Otter** · 08-18-2005, 03:14 PM

Freud Glue-line Rip is my general purpose blade.

http://www.freud-tools.com/freudlmgluli.html

I have a collection of Advenger blades that I use every know and then.

**LCHIEN** · 08-18-2005, 03:45 PM

WWII - a high quality blade that will also last thru many sharpenings due to its thick carbide teeth. 10", 40T, thin kerf, no stabilizer.

the WWI has a low face hook angle and is suited for radial arm and miter saws although esp in the latter case you'd want a crosscut only blade not a gen'l purpose. It'll work in a table saw OK, I guess but the WWII is really made for that.

That said, I can see the difference between the WWII and my Frued-built Ryobi stock blade side by side but I would say I'd be hard pressed to guess which blade cut it if presented with only one piece and no comparison.

The forrest is really well made with top-notch materials; you can see and feel the difference.

Whether or not all that is worth $100 to you is the question.

**LarryG** · 08-18-2005, 03:58 PM

This will not directly answer what you asked, but it dovetails with what Loring said and thus may be of some use:

I own a Ryobi BT3100, and a Delta 36-255L compound miter saw.

From the git-go, I was highly impressed with the quality of cut produced by the stock Ryobi-nee-Freud blade on the BT. As for the stock blade on the Delta ... eh.

A few months ago, I laid out the big bucks for an 80T Forrest Chopmaster for the Delta. The difference between it and the stock blade is nothing short of amazing. Backside tear-out is much reduced (although there still is some, without a backer board), and the smoothness of a crosscut feels like it's been sanded to 220 grit. No kidding. After fitting the Chopmaster and making only two or three trial cuts, I fully understood what all the fuss about Forrest blades was about.

However, it also pointed up just how good the BT's stock blade is. Is there a difference between crosscuts made on the BT and the Forrest-equipped Delta? Yes. But as Loring says, the difference is pretty small. (Note that I'm speaking only to crosscut quality here. Comments about ripping wouldn't be fair or meaningful, since a CMS can't rip.)

Bottom line for me is, one of these days I will replace the stock BT blade with a Forrest. But it's now a far lower priority than it was before I put the Forrest on the Delta.

**sweensdv** · 08-18-2005, 04:32 PM

What kind of projects do you mostly do? That info is a big part of the equation when choosing the blade that is best suited for your needs.

**Harris** · 08-18-2005, 07:08 PM

quote:Originally posted by sweensdv

What kind of projects do you mostly do? That info is a big part of the equation when choosing the blade that is best suited for your needs.

That is a good question. I am a newbie. I have always had an interest in carpentry and woodwork. The insane costs of closet built-ins and other furniture were an additional spur to start really pursuing it.

So, I am currently working on smaller projects (small bookcases, lateral file cabinets, a tool shed) in order to hone my skills with an eye toward dressers, entry hall/mudroom built-ins and maybe kitchen cab refacing.

**sweensdv** · 08-18-2005, 07:39 PM

With the type of projects you mentioned it would be a good idea to purchase a good quality woodworking blade versus a contractor grade blade. The main reason I say that is it sounds like you'll be doing both type of work and a good woodworking blade will stay sharper and take more resharpenings than a contractor quality blade and will also give you a nicer cut.

Dedicated crosscut and rip blades will give you the best results. However, many feel that constantly having to change blades back and forth between the two is too much of a bother and prefer using a combination blade. That's what I'd recommend you start out with and as you progress you can decide if dedicated rip and crosscut blades are right for you. There are many good combination blades available but the one I'm most familiar with is the Freud LU84R011 and I highly recomment it. You usually can find it locally for around $55-$60.

**John Hunter** · 08-18-2005, 07:41 PM

Freud

**Black wallnut** · 08-18-2005, 08:05 PM

quote:Originally posted by John Hunter

Freud

Yup what he said!

More specifically I use an 80T fine crosscut blade for most of my cuts in all types of wood. If I have several boards that need ripped then I will switch to a cheap 24T rip blade and then clean up the edge with on pass past the 80T.

I have not used the stock blade in years but that is because the closest sharpening service is 180 miles distance and it needs it. One day I will have it and several other blades sharpened.

**crokett** · 08-18-2005, 09:10 PM

If you are on a budget, my favorite combination blade is the Porter Cable Razor. I own the stock blade, a Freud rip blade, a Freud cross cut blade and the Porter Cable. It does better than the stock blade and given a single sample, I wouldn't be able to tell if my Razor or Freud blade made a given cut. It is also signifigantly quieter than my other blades.

**Doug Jones** · 08-19-2005, 03:41 AM

quote:Originally posted by John Hunter

Freud

Yep, what he said.

**Pappy** · 08-19-2005, 05:24 AM

Like you, I can't bring myself to shell out the $$$ for a Forrest WWII. I generally stay with Freud blades and work mostly with either an 80 tooth crosscut or their 24 tooth rip blades.

**onedash** · 08-19-2005, 08:17 AM

I have the blade that came with my Craftsman, the craftsman C200 40 and 60 tooth. They all make nice smooth cuts. I just got a freud thin kerf to try. And have the included blade on my delta cms. (kinda sucks) tried cutting an eraser block(sand paper cleaner stick) for my son to clean the grip tape on his skate board. big mistake. spent like an hour picking the melted stuff off the blade and everywhere else sawdust would go.
What determines if a blade is a cross cut, rip cut, or combo?
And what would the benefit of a planer blade be?
thanks

**LCHIEN** · 08-19-2005, 09:25 AM

quote:Originally posted by onedash

I have the blade that came with my Craftsman, the craftsman C200 40 and 60 tooth. They all make nice smooth cuts. I just got a freud thin kerf to try. And have the included blade on my delta cms. (kinda sucks) tried cutting an eraser block(sand paper cleaner stick) for my son to clean the grip tape on his skate board. big mistake. spent like an hour picking the melted stuff off the blade and everywhere else sawdust would go.
What determines if a blade is a cross cut, rip cut, or combo?
And what would the benefit of a planer blade be?
thanks

generally, the 60-80T blades are for crosscut.
The 36-40-50T blades are for combo use
and the 24-28T blades with the big deep gullets (the valley between teeth) and steep hook angles are for ripping and those big gullets for allowing the cuttings to be carried all the way through the cut.
The crosscut gullets will be small, generally the cuttings crosscut are more chips than the strips you get ripping.
Some of the combo blades have both big and little gullets alternating.

Laminate blades have lots of teeth like crosscut but also have alternate top bevel where the teeth are not flat-topped but pointy at the edges so as to score the outside layers first in an attempt to reduce splintering.

**ElRay** · 08-19-2005, 10:02 AM

If you're in an area that the woodworking shows stop at and can wait for the next show, I'd buy a WWII at the show. It will be cheaper than regular price, likely come with a free sharpening or two. It will still be more now, but it will save you money (blade, wood and time costs) in the long run.

Ray