I had some calibration weights that I use for checking my small part scales. Like I use for precise weighing of the pinewood derby cars.
They don't have boxes but are of high accuracy and should be minimally handled and stored in tight boxes to prevent change in mass from corrosion, oils and dirt buildup.
I had two 100 and one 300g weights with no box. I looked at some Delrin or UHMW material and it cost more than the weights so I opted for some scrap hardwood that I could laminate.
I ended up with this 4.5x2x2.5 inch high box. With a lid that split just above the detent for lifting with tweezers to prevent touching them.
Used tight fitting forstners to make deep flat bottom cavities and flush trim router to make the three vertical parts line up. Oh yeah, a couple of dowels for top alignment wile drilling the dowel holes the deep wells, and the flush trip of the top and the cover piece. The sides came out beautifully flush with the flush trim bit. I enlarged the dowel holes in the top with a "G" bit - .257" dia - to make the top a slip fit without binding.
Very satisfying. The screw up, I forgot to backup the chamfers on the side across the grain to prevent blow out. Of course i knew better but it had been a while and i forgot. Brittle wood made it much more susceptible.

It'll do the job.
I hope the wood does not react with the brass or chromed weights... I wanted to make it out of engineered plastics but it was too expensive. I did have to spring for a 15/16" Forstner but I figure I might be able to use it later.
Brazilian Cherry scrap wood, I think.
They don't have boxes but are of high accuracy and should be minimally handled and stored in tight boxes to prevent change in mass from corrosion, oils and dirt buildup.
I had two 100 and one 300g weights with no box. I looked at some Delrin or UHMW material and it cost more than the weights so I opted for some scrap hardwood that I could laminate.
I ended up with this 4.5x2x2.5 inch high box. With a lid that split just above the detent for lifting with tweezers to prevent touching them.
Used tight fitting forstners to make deep flat bottom cavities and flush trim router to make the three vertical parts line up. Oh yeah, a couple of dowels for top alignment wile drilling the dowel holes the deep wells, and the flush trip of the top and the cover piece. The sides came out beautifully flush with the flush trim bit. I enlarged the dowel holes in the top with a "G" bit - .257" dia - to make the top a slip fit without binding.
Very satisfying. The screw up, I forgot to backup the chamfers on the side across the grain to prevent blow out. Of course i knew better but it had been a while and i forgot. Brittle wood made it much more susceptible.
It'll do the job.
I hope the wood does not react with the brass or chromed weights... I wanted to make it out of engineered plastics but it was too expensive. I did have to spring for a 15/16" Forstner but I figure I might be able to use it later.
Brazilian Cherry scrap wood, I think.
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