Small special Cal Weight storage box

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  • LCHIEN
    Super Moderator
    • Dec 2002
    • 21459
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    Small special Cal Weight storage box

    I had some calibration weights that I use for checking my small part scales. Like I use for precise weighing of the pinewood derby cars.

    They don't have boxes but are of high accuracy and should be minimally handled and stored in tight boxes to prevent change in mass from corrosion, oils and dirt buildup.

    I had two 100 and one 300g weights with no box. I looked at some Delrin or UHMW material and it cost more than the weights so I opted for some scrap hardwood that I could laminate.

    I ended up with this 4.5x2x2.5 inch high box. With a lid that split just above the detent for lifting with tweezers to prevent touching them.

    Used tight fitting forstners to make deep flat bottom cavities and flush trim router to make the three vertical parts line up. Oh yeah, a couple of dowels for top alignment wile drilling the dowel holes the deep wells, and the flush trip of the top and the cover piece. The sides came out beautifully flush with the flush trim bit. I enlarged the dowel holes in the top with a "G" bit - .257" dia - to make the top a slip fit without binding.

    Very satisfying. The screw up, I forgot to backup the chamfers on the side across the grain to prevent blow out. Of course i knew better but it had been a while and i forgot. Brittle wood made it much more susceptible.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	161.8 KB ID:	860334

    It'll do the job.
    I hope the wood does not react with the brass or chromed weights... I wanted to make it out of engineered plastics but it was too expensive. I did have to spring for a 15/16" Forstner but I figure I might be able to use it later.

    Brazilian Cherry scrap wood, I think.
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    Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-31-2025, 04:14 AM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions
  • leehljp
    The Full Monte
    • Dec 2002
    • 8552
    • Tunica, MS
    • BT3000/3100

    #2
    This may not apply to your situation but I did a similar thing when I was in Japan, and I was disappointed at the outcome. Not having access to immediate UHMW or the right density of thick foam or 1/2" plastic/delrin shaft sleeves for my 1/2" shanked router bits in a storage box, I drilled holes for storage with a 13mm bit in plywood
    . I did spray the holes with plenty of WD-40 to prevent ambient moisture from settling in the wood and causing rust. My thoughts were well founded as about 2 - 3 years later, I began to notice rust rings forming on the steel shanks of the bits where they touched the wood.

    Lesson learned - wood will absorb ambient humidity and transfer it to metallic objects. Not a problem if they don't rust, but it is a problem if moisture can cause tarnish or rust. Then combine that with moisture+wood tannins+ metallic interactions and the possibility for corrosion or tarnish or rust will probably happen.

    I can't seem to find that picture at this time.
    Last edited by leehljp; 01-31-2025, 05:46 AM.
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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