Found the air compressor running, fixed it better than new!

[dbhost]

So I came home a couple of weekends ago after taking my wife for lunch, and found the air compressor running. I ran into the shop and discovered I had left it on, pressured up, and plugged into the hoses. The jumper hose from the compressor to the manifold had ruptured. I realized it was too easy to forget to power the compressor off, and take pressure off of the hoses. Plus I wasn't draining the tank as often as I should, so some fixes were in order...

And for your enjoyment, I put it into a video, enjoy!

[capncarl]

What would have happened if you had been gone for several days or a week? Melt down?
On a lighter note...
I built a remote control start for my dust collector using an air conditioner contactor and a outdoor Christmas light remote control, worked like a charm. One evening I noticed a rumbling noise coming from my shop! When I went into the shop and turned the lights on the dust collector turned off. I discovered the remote control had a dust to dawn feature that would automatically turn on on in low light! That switch is now turned off.

[nwhomesteader]

What would have happened if you had been gone for several days or a week? Melt down?
On a lighter note...
I built a remote control start for my dust collector using an air conditioner contactor and a outdoor Christmas light remote control, worked like a charm. One evening I noticed a rumbling noise coming from my shop! When I went into the shop and turned the lights on the dust collector turned off. I discovered the remote control had a dust to dawn feature that would automatically turn on on in low light! That switch is now turned off.

"Dust" to dawn....I see what you did there....lol.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[dbhost]

What would have happened if you had been gone for several days or a week? Melt down?
On a lighter note...
I built a remote control start for my dust collector using an air conditioner contactor and a outdoor Christmas light remote control, worked like a charm. One evening I noticed a rumbling noise coming from my shop! When I went into the shop and turned the lights on the dust collector turned off. I discovered the remote control had a dust to dawn feature that would automatically turn on on in low light! That switch is now turned off.

One would hope that when the compressor pump seizes, that the breaker would trip off. I really don't want to know. I have heard of shop / house fires caused by an overrunning air compressor that went unchecked.

[tfischer]

Yikes I've been just leaving my AC powered up and plugged in as it's handy to not have to always turn it on before using it. I wonder if they make a device that you could plug it into that would monitor if it were drawing current for more than a fixed amount of time (say 10 minutes) without a break and if so, shut it down until a reset?

If these things can be dangerous if run continuously you'd think they'd build that right into them... would be a very simple electronic circuit if you had the added ability to hook into the pressure switch on the compressor.

[cwsmith]

Industrial grade compressors have several built in features, many of them options; oil-level shutdown switches, high-condensate level release valves, even air intake filter monitors. However, for most of us consumers, low cost compressors have few running monitor/safety features beyond the required safety pressure-relief valves. Frankly, I'm not even sure if the typical consumer-grade compressor motor is over-load protected.

Both my Craftsman 33-gal, 150 psi oil-less and the little Craftsman 2-gal, 125 psi lubricated compressors have the direct-drive motors enclosed in a plastic shroud. So if there is a thermo-overload switch on them, they're hidden. (I'll have to check the manuals later.)

Personally speaking, I think it is 'bad practice' to keep your compressor switched with the outlet valve open all the time; even if your air system is perfectly leak-proof, there's always the risk of a hose fracturing. With no monitoring, you'd chance wasting a lot of electricity until you discover the problem. Most compressors, at least the larger tank sizes, are rated for 100% duty-cycle, so other than wasting the electricity and the extra hours of service you're putting on the tool there really shouldn't be much harm. Left for several days however, I would think you'd built up a substantial amount of condensate in the tank AND in the service lines. If you don't have a properly installed piping system, that condensate in the lines could drip back into the compressor and cause severe problems (read that as wreak your compressor.... water doesn't compress!)

Generally speaking, any overload on the compressor should cause your circuit breaker to trip (providing your wiring and panel are properly sized). That doesn't necessarily protect an over-heated motor or compressor cylinder though, and any subsequent damage that might cause. For example, my Craftsman 33-gal oil-less had a recall a few years ago. Apparently the plastic shroud surrounding the motor and compressor, on the initial product release, wasn't made of the proper thermoplastic. Overheating could cause the shroud to melt... not sure if would catch fire, but perhaps. They sent me a new replacement shroud.

Basically, compressor are fairly simple mechanics. If over-run, you could have a ring failure (if oil-less, that would cause the piston to seize and the motor to either trip the breaker or burn out). On an oil-lubricated unit, if the oil drops too low, the same thing will happen. Further problems can be in the failure of the pressure switch which would normally shut the compressor motor off when the design pressure is reached. A back-up of such failure would be the safety valve, which is set to blow at a pressure slightly higher than the designed pressure switch setting. If the safety valve also fails and the pressure builds beyond the MAWP (Maximum Allowable Working Pressure) of the tank, you could suffer a fracture on the tank or the line feeding the tank. That can be a simple as a severe leak, but I've seen tanks that literally exploded, causing severe damage, not only to the compressor, but also to the building in which they were located. (Back in the 60's, we had a local gas station which had it's roof penetrated and one wall of the service room blown out when a large (60-80 gal) compressor tank fractured.)

Bottom line for me is that I don't leave my compressor power-on, ever. Likewise, I always shut off the compressor's outlet valve. My little compressor will hold it's pressure for quite a long time (weeks), but my 33-gal will loose about five psi everyday, until it gets down to about 50 psi... then the leak is slower.

I hope this helps.

CWS

[dbhost]

Honestly, it's a LOT easier to remember to shut OFF the compressor if you are going to dump the tank. Which was a HUGE reason for me running the remote mounting of the ball valve at the bottom. The easier it is, the more likely it is to be done! I admit I am lazy in that sometimes so I need to make it easy on myself...

And FWIW, I updated the video with a slide show and explanation of the bits and pieces and thought process behind it all...

[capncarl]

I have an Ingersoll Rand 3hp 60 gallon upright compressor that has come close to a melt down several times. I occasionally tackle a large paint job outside using a hvlp spray gun where I run the air hose out a window to my carport. After several hours I'd notice a loss of pressure and eventually go inside the shop to see what is happening to be greeted by a burning oil smell. What was happening was the compressor overheated, probably allowing the head bolts to expand enough for the head gasket to blow and loose its air compressing capabilities and run non stop. The damage has always been isolated to head gaskets and the plastic guards. I suppose that this is a self governing device because after the head gasket blows there is not a lot of load on the compressor and it probably would cool of somewhat and not melt down.
Now I have learned this machines weakness and take a break and retighten the head bolts and let it cool off.
capncarl

[cwsmith]

Carl,
I'm surprised that your I-R compressor would have to cycle anywhere close to having it overheat, especially with a HVLP gun and a 60-gal receiver tank! That's a fair amount of reserve air for a low-pressure device running 40 to 50 psi or less. What does that demand, about 12 - 16 cfm?

Isn't that particular model rated for 100% duty cycle? Maybe you've got something else going on there.

CWS

[capncarl]

CWS, this is a heavy duty compressor but this is another one of those cases of NOT operating something the way it was intended. I've found that I can spray a thick house paint like Porter Glyptex or oil enamel by thinning it just enough using floetrol or penetrol by jacking the air pressure and volume way up on my HVLP gun. IE, all the compressor has. The results turn out exceptional but the compressor pays the price.
Does everyone know about the paint additive Floeteol for latex and Penetrol for oil paint? It's the best thing ever for most paint, makes it level great, flows great, brush marks go away and gives it a longer open time. I never thin latex with water any more. Look it up, you will love it.
capncarl

[cwsmith]

Carl,

Thanks, I've used Flotrol (or Floeteol... not sure it's actual spelling) several years ago and like you said it makes a tremendous difference. I agree with you about thinning with water, that's rarely worked for me. Not sure if there's some chemical in the water or what but I tried thinning some black, high gloss Valspar for a table I made four years ago... the darn paint is still sort of sticky even today. Otherwise the table came out great but the finish needs to be stripped because of the tackiness.

What is the pressure and the scfm of your I-R compressor? I looked at a couple of I-R compressors a few years ago (similar tank size) and they're pretty nice. No longer made in the U.S. unfortunately. The last I knew, they were made at our Naroda, India plant. (I worked for the Air Compressor Division when it was at Painted Post, NY where I had service lit responsibility for some products in the Small Compressor Division. I believe your unit probably more like the ANL product line, which was built in Kentucky at that time. Mostly I was familiar with Type 30 (light industrial and automotive applications) and for the heavy industry units like the ESH/V, Type 40, LLE, and XLE heavy units. The Air Compressor Division left Painted Post in 1986 and from 1984 to 2003 I worked for the Engine-Process Compressor Division which makes super-heavy units for the petro-chem industry (pipeline, oil platform, oil field and refinery processes.)

CWS

[capncarl]

CWS, I'm not sure of the cfm of this compressor, the nomenclature plate is washed out and there is not markings on the compressor I can find. All IR shops I contacted deal with industrial units so is got the run around, gave up and made my own head gaskets.
It is a 5 hp motor though, not a 3 like I earlier stated.


If you can id the compressor I will locate the proper parts.
Thanks
capncarl

[cwsmith]

Hi Carl,

I can't quite make out the serial number and type information.... can you give me that? Also, I'm wondering if you have any idea how old this might be?

It looks like a series that we made in Italy back in the late 70's to mid-80's. I notice it says "Air Pro" on the side and is painted a metallic-looking gray. I had a nice 'wheel-barrow type compressor from that era. Many of those were recalled (including mine) because some tanks leaked. The current recip (piston) compressors are painted a cream-colored beige and built in India... the last I knew anyway.

Does the tank have an ASME label on it? They are usually steel embossed and permanently fixed to the side of the tank.

Not sure if anyone I know still works at the Davidson, NC plant, as they are probably all retired, but I'd be happy to look into it further if you'd like.

CWS

[dbhost]

Ooooh. Ouch. Never had a head gasket blow on a compressor. can you fab one up or use high temp RTV?

My highest consumption air tool is the purple HF HVLP gun, which is 6scfm @ 40PSI, and my 29 gallon compressor runs 7.3scfm @ 40PSI, so I am okay there, but it cycles a LOT if I am using it alone. Paired with my 12 gallon 2HP compressor, which gives me 6.2scfm @ 40PSI, and assuming a 10% efficiency loss in the plumbing, I get roughly 12scfm @ 40PSI running them teamed...

All in all though, I find the 29 gallon to be more than enough. To the point I will likely disassemble the input manifold and retire the smaller compressor all together. I have a nephew that is building a shop that it will likely go to...

[capncarl]

CWS, I've had this compressor for 15 years and it was used when I got it. When the compressor finally dies I will probably replace it with equivalent one from northern tool or somewhere like that. I'll baby it along and not work it to death and it will probably last longer than I will. The head gaskets that I made were from high temp gasket material, very hard to cut but doable.
I've aquired an airless sprayer that will take care of the large jobs and limit the hvlp to small stuff.
capncarl