Router table extension for BT3

[wd4lc]

OK, so I'm finally getting around to starting on this table. I'm going to buy the 4 large t-nuts to hold the table in place (and do as Alex did and use his bolt/nut method to secure it that you can buy at any home store).

http://www.t-nuts.com/prod.shtml

To you modding experts, can you think of any other of those t-nuts that would be good to have on hand for any mods in the future? For instance I've seen some photos of a clamp that is built onto the smt fence and was thinking about getting some of the xtra large t-nuts for the top slot of the smt fence just in case I need to build that later. Point being, I'd like to get it all now to justify the shipping.

Thanks.

[LCHIEN]

OK, so I'm finally getting around to starting on this table. I'm going to buy the 4 large t-nuts to hold the table in place (and do as Alex did and use his bolt/nut method to secure it that you can buy at any home store).

http://www.t-nuts.com/prod.shtml

To you modding experts, can you think of any other of those t-nuts that would be good to have on hand for any mods in the future? For instance I've seen some photos of a clamp that is built onto the smt fence and was thinking about getting some of the xtra large t-nuts for the top slot of the smt fence just in case I need to build that later. Point being, I'd like to get it all now to justify the shipping.

Thanks.

they have kits with four each of the nuts that fit all slots on the BT3.

[wd4lc]

they have kits with four each of the nuts that fit all slots on the BT3.

Thanks LCHIEN. Looks like those bulk packs cost the same as the individual pieces and probably a safe option.

Question for ya. They say that the 5/16-8 t-nuts are the same thread as the Ryobi style and the 1/4-20 threaded t-nuts will fit many knobs. Is it a safe assumption that I can find bolts that fit both thread sizes at any Lowes store? I'm trying to determine which is better to purchase. Thank you.

[pelligrini]

The 1/4" knobs are more common at Lowes and HD. The woodworking stores have a better selection. I used the knobbed t-bolts from my original cheezy router fence.

I bought the 5/16 and 1/4 assortment packages and a dozen or so 5 lobe knobs when I made my order. I'm running out of knobs again. I did get some large t-bolts too. I found that the t-nut and stud packages are more flexible.

[LCHIEN]

Thanks LCHIEN. Looks like those bulk packs cost the same as the individual pieces and probably a safe option.

Question for ya. They say that the 5/16-8 t-nuts are the same thread as the Ryobi style and the 1/4-20 threaded t-nuts will fit many knobs. Is it a safe assumption that I can find bolts that fit both thread sizes at any Lowes store? I'm trying to determine which is better to purchase. Thank you.

both 5/16"-18 and 1/4"-20 bolts are very, very common at any hardware store available in 1/4" increments from about 1/2" to 5 or 6 inches, minimum.

I pretty much standardized on 1/4-20 for all my jig stuff, I do have a few items using 5/16, but I would think that 1/4-20 should be strong enough for just about any jig, they also fit the standard T-tracks quite easily. I keep a drawer full of 1/4" hex head bolts, at least two of each size, so I can build almost any jig without a trip to the hardware store. Also nuts, washers, wing nuts, and T-nuts (the kind you hammer into the wood to add metal threads to a wood piece). When i go to the travelling woodworking shows I stock up on t-bar and 5-star knobs (thru-threaded, 1/4"-20) for jigs, usually cheaper than buying them at the hardware and or woodworking stores.

The BT3K uses 5/16-18 for the SMT miter fence lock knob. I don't recall what is used in the router kit nor what is used in the front and rear rail mounting brackets.

[wd4lc]

both 5/16"-18 and 1/4"-20 bolts are very, very common at any hardware store available in 1/4" increments from about 1/2" to 5 or 6 inches, minimum.

I pretty much standardized on 1/4-20 for all my jig stuff, I do have a few items using 5/16, but I would think that 1/4-20 should be strong enough for just about any jig, they also fit the standard T-tracks quite easily. I keep a drawer full of 1/4" hex head bolts, at least two of each size, so I can build almost any jig without a trip to the hardware store. Also nuts, washers, wing nuts, and T-nuts (the kind you hammer into the wood to add metal threads to a wood piece). When i go to the travelling woodworking shows I stock up on t-bar and 5-star knobs (thru-threaded, 1/4"-20) for jigs, usually cheaper than buying them at the hardware and or woodworking stores.

The BT3K uses 5/16-18 for the SMT miter fence lock knob. I don't recall what is used in the router kit nor what is used in the front and rear rail mounting brackets.

Perfect! Thank you LCHIEN and pelligrini.

[SARGE..g-47]

Nice job, Alex....

[wd4lc]

Almost Done

The only thing I have left to do is the plywood insert. Thanks Alex for sharing your design and those great photos. Also thanks to you and everyone else for helping with some excellent detailed answers to my questions. I would not have been able to build this without many of those answers, so thank you.

With that, would you mind if I ask a few last questions, please.

1. My table is very very hard to slide in and out (I'm talking rubber mallet action). I'm not sure if it's the scuffed up rails or if my t-nuts are not aligned accurately enough on either side to allow it to move freely. ..or perhaps it's too snug altogether. What I'm hoping is that some wax or WD-40 on the t-nuts and rails will do the trick. A long long time ago I remember reading a post about not using wax but I don't remember if that was for the rails or for the tables.
Do you foresee any problems using something to help the t-nuts glide better on the rails and if so what?

2. Is there a waterproofing stain that can be used on MDF? If for some reason water gets on it (or a critter pees on it), it's probably going to swell.

3. I realized that my router base has handles and therefore won't pop up through the table because it would be too big. Am I assuming correctly that you all either keep it in the table or unscrew the base from the insert in order to remove it?

Thanks again.

[LCHIEN]

apply the wax carefully and you should be OK... The wax should be avoided on the part of the rails where the rip fence will grab it, otherwise the plastic pads that grip it will tend to rise up off the rail when its locked.

if you do get some wax on those areas, some mineral spirits will take it right off.

[pelligrini]

An easy way to do a light application of wax is to rub wax paper on the edges of the table and in the rail extrusion for your T-nuts. Some folks will do this on the inside of the rails so they can be adjusted easily. It works on the SMT too.

There's many threads in the forums about finishing MDF. A lot of folks have used waterbased poly.

[jonmulzer]

Chances are you made it too snug. That is what happened with my table extension. Instead of recutting all the pieces I took a belt sander to the rear edge. Now it slides easily but snugly in and out.

[Vincerama]

As a waterproofing, maybe look into oil based wipe on polyurethane? It leaves a very thin layer.