Router table extension for BT3

[mantis]

He could always route a miter channel or t-track slot for those things.

[wd4lc]

Awesome. Great job on that modification. I like that you can just leave it on when you need to use the table saw (or remove it if you wish). I've always wished that the table space was fully covered on that side.

Thanks as well for the wonderful layout and photos with descriptions. Phenomenal.

Looks like I'll be using a router for the first time with this table extension project. TY!

[Alex Franke]

Is there anything you wish you had set up differently on that? How would you attach jigs / feather boards to that setup?

I've only used it a handful of times since I built it, so it might take be a while to really answer this question fully... But I was thinking that I would use the table saw fence for a lot of this.

For example, I can use the no frills fence-riding tenoning jig that I built a while ago.

I think I also want to add a starting pin.

[mantis]

I did a similar project to this this weekend. Interestingly, the fence runs into my far side support, so I will have to route the outer edge back a little to avoid hitting it. Otherwise it went pretty well.

[Knottscott]

Very nicely done Alex!

[wd4lc]

Alex (or anyone that would know), would you mind if I ask a few questions.

Other than the MDF, does the type of wood I use matter?

After some usage have you found that top size to be a good size or would you prefer it to be any longer or shorter?

Most importantly. I've never used a router before. I'm assuming you used the router by hand to cut out the area in the MDF that the router mount lays in (leaving a rim of 1/4"). If this is correct, what is the name or type of router bit that you used to create that? I'm assuming it is one bit used at two different heights - 1/2" for the lip and then 3/4+" to dig out the remainder.

On that same note, do you outline a square on the MDF and then clamp straight edging or wood to the side outlines to help create a straighter router cut?

Thank you.

[pelligrini]

I purchased a template to do the cutout for my router lift and used the bushings and bit diameter it was made for. I didn't want to spend the time making my own. Mostly I didn't want to spoil the piece of phenolic ply I got for the top as it was fairly expensive.

[Alex Franke]

Other than the MDF, does the type of wood I use matter?

It works well for me so far for occasional use, but I don't expect it to last forever... When it starts wearing out I'll make another one or maybe upgrade to phenolic plywood. (Example here: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3958)

After some usage have you found that top size to be a good size or would you prefer it to be any longer or shorter?

I haven't had any issues with the size -- seems just about right. It's a bigger surface than the router table accessory that was built into the BT3100, so I'm pretty happy with it so far.

Most importantly. I've never used a router before. I'm assuming you used the router by hand to cut out the area in the MDF that the router mount lays in (leaving a rim of 1/4"). If this is correct, what is the name or type of router bit that you used to create that? I'm assuming it is one bit used at two different heights - 1/2" for the lip and then 3/4+" to dig out the remainder.

On that same note, do you outline a square on the MDF and then clamp straight edging or wood to the side outlines to help create a straighter router cut?

I started by drilling a hole in the middle of the table and using a jigsaw to rough cut the hole. I clamped on some straight edges to ride the router up against. (Remember to go in a clockwise direction when you're routing out inside edges.) I used a simple straight bit for this. (Also remember that if you skip the jig-saw part and try to plunge cut with the straight bit, you'll probably need to plunge as you're advancing the router. This is because straight bits usually don't have overlapping blades so you can't just plunge straight in with them.)

Then with the same bit in the router, I set the bit depth using the plywood I was going to insert. (Set the router on the plywood and lower the bit until it just touches the table.) I backed the straight edges off a bit and went around again to create the lip.

Instead of squaring the corners of the cut-out, I just rounded the corners of the insert.

Thank you.

No problem! Let us know how it goes!

[wd4lc]

Alex, I have been trying like heck to find the hardware that you use on this table extension.

I think you called it a T-Nut. In your photos it is a 1" squared nut. It resembles a square washer.

I've checked Lowes, HD and a hardware store. No such luck. I've seen their selection of t-nuts and none were quite like that. I've something semi-similar called glides, however they were round.

Where did you find these t-nuts? Is this general hardware or is it specialty to plumbing/electrical..anything like that? I cannot find these things and everytime I describe it to employees I get confused looks.

Also, do you see any problems with using particle board instead of MDF as the table? I noticed that particle board is a bit cheaper.

Thanks.

[pelligrini]

I doubt you'll find one of those T-nuts in any hardware store. Those square ones are OEM stamped ones from the manufacturer. There are also rectangular ones the will fit both of the two different sized large slots on the rails.

I used the OEM nuts and knobs from my stock router fence when I did mine.

A really good source is T-Nuts.com, check the link at the top of the main forums page for a discount code. I've had some really good service from him. I picked up a couple assortment packs and a bunch of knobs when I made my order. They sure do come in handy when it comes time to make other jigs and attachemnts.

[JoeyGee]

Another vote for T-Nuts.com. The nuts and related hardware they have will make jigs and accessories infinitely easier and that much more enjoyable. I have had great service. If you order, make sure you get the BT3Central 10% discount if it's still good. The link on the main page should take you there.

[milanuk]

So... how is that magnetic tool tray working out? Looks positioned to make a dandy dust catcher

I keep thinking I should make a router table top to extend the work surface a bit and get a little better router table than I have. I have been using a Bosch bench-top router table, and so far I'm not especially happy with the way the plate sits in the recesses... the leveling screws don't stay put, etc. so my routing isn't very smooth. I want a full router table, but figuring out where to make it fit at might be a challenge plus balancing dust collection with bit/collet access is always a joy. The nice simple open acces that yours has is certainly appealing in that regard... wonder how much of a bear it would be to clean up after?

[LinuxRandal]

If you ever make up plans for it, let me know. I have a neighbor, who I got turned onto the BT, but his shop, is about 10' x 10', so this would solve one of his needs.

[wd4lc]

I doubt you'll find one of those T-nuts in any hardware store. Those square ones are OEM stamped ones from the manufacturer. There are also rectangular ones the will fit both of the two different sized large slots on the rails.

I used the OEM nuts and knobs from my stock router fence when I did mine.

A really good source is T-Nuts.com, check the link at the top of the main forums page for a discount code. I've had some really good service from him. I picked up a couple assortment packs and a bunch of knobs when I made my order. They sure do come in handy when it comes time to make other jigs and attachemnts.

Thank you very much pelligrini (and JoeyGee). That has definitely solved a frustrating mystery for me.

For any other noob such as myself, here is a great link to the suggested t-nuts.com site that show comparable t-nuts for the bt3000/3100 and even describe where each size of nut fits on which rails (thank goodness for the description).

http://www.t-nuts.com/prod.shtml

Is it safe to assume that the "common" 1/4-20 size is suggested over the "Ryobi style"? Is this site fair in terms of shipping? I've seen some places that want to ship a little mailer with itty bitty hardware for $6.95.

One last question if you don't mind. Let me preface this by saying I'm a cheapskate. Do you see any problems using particle board over mdf for this router table? With either one I'd have to purchase a 4' x 8' and have them cut it in half (for transport). MDF is $8 more expensive than the particle board ($23 vs. $15).

Thank you very much. Can't wait to finally get this project going.

[Alex Franke]

Where did you find these t-nuts? Is this general hardware or is it specialty to plumbing/electrical..anything like that? I cannot find these things and everytime I describe it to employees I get confused looks.

Looks like you found t-nuts.com. I used the extras that came with my BT3, and I still need to order some more to replace them.

So... how is that magnetic tool tray working out? Looks positioned to make a dandy dust catcher

Yes, it's a fine dust catcher. It's still there, though. I just dump the dust out ever once in a while when I can no longer see the tools in the tray.

One last question if you don't mind. Let me preface this by saying I'm a cheapskate. Do you see any problems using particle board over mdf for this router table? With either one I'd have to purchase a 4' x 8' and have them cut it in half (for transport). MDF is $8 more expensive than the particle board ($23 vs. $15).

I'm a cheapskate, too. (One of the reasons I like the Bargain Alerts section of this site!) I used MDF because it was what I had on hand. I've never actually built anything with particle board - probably because of all the bad experiences I had fasteners pulling out in all the knock-down furniture I had in my younger years. Somehow I feel like MDF holds a bit better, but it's not based on anything objective.

If it were me, I'd pick something with a very smooth surface, and something you'll probably use the rest of at some point. Actually before I even did that, I'd check to see if they were giving away any cut-offs that are the right general size. Sometimes you get lucky with those bargain bins!