Zach's Toy Box ... Christmas present #1 complete!

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • BadeMillsap
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 868
    • Bulverde, Texas, USA.
    • Grizzly G1023SL

    #1

    Zach's Toy Box ... Christmas present #1 complete!

    When my children reached a certain age ... 6 or 7 as I recall, my father built each of them a toy box. Those toy boxes are now cherished heirlooms constructed of reused lumber that had been previously somehow linked to our family's history. At the time I really didn't give those "boxes" much thought ... they were a place to store toys and lived in each child's room.

    Now ... my 1st grandson is seven years old ... and it is time for him to have his own "made by G'Pa" toy box. I started the project looking for wood I could recycle, but didn't find the necessary quantity/dimension so I opted for a trip earlier documented on this site to M&G Sawmill where I bought aromatic cedar for the toy chest and white oak for the crib of the expected March arrival of the 2nd grandchild ... I realize aromatic cedar is usually reserved for "Hope" or "Blanket" chests ... but when I was at the mill and saw this beautiful wood I knew I had to build something with it ... sure makes the shop smell good will working the wood!

    Besides the aromatic cedar I used redwood from the old pool deck for the base and handles (which is the same wood I used for my big deck chair, my TV tray that I use every day, my wife's quilt rack and outdoor swing) so it has SOME family history in it's makeup and I used white oak that is part of the batch I will use to build the new baby crib for the lid and hinge reinforcements ... hopefully that will give it a little "heirloom" countenance in the future.

    I used "plans" (using the term loosely) I found on the internet .. but modified them heavily to suit my preferences.

    I used the Harbor Freight dovetail jig for the joinery and I have to say that with a little care and patience I found the jig to work very well, particularly in light of the $29 I paid for it.

    Overall I'm pleased with the outcome ... I have provided links below to a few pictures (hopefully that works -- if not I trust you'll let me know).

    http://picasaweb.google.com/BadeMill...87765229847874

    http://picasaweb.google.com/BadeMill...87792136696258

    http://picasaweb.google.com/BadeMill...87836920642194
    "Like an old desperado, I paint the town beige ..." REK
    Bade Millsap
    Bulverde, Texas
    => Bade's Personal Web Log
    => Bade's Lutherie Web Log
  • bthorne
    Forum Newbie
    • Oct 2007
    • 82
    • Ruckersville, VA
    • Craftsman 21829

    #2
    That's beautiful work! I'm sure your grandson will grow up to be proud of that.

    If you don't mind me asking, what finish did you use on it?
    --
    Bryan

    Comment

    • BadeMillsap
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2005
      • 868
      • Bulverde, Texas, USA.
      • Grizzly G1023SL

      #3
      Ahhh ... the finish ... well now ....

      I had read somewhere that shellac was the preferred finish on aromatic cedar "exterior" realizing one should not finish the inside if you wanted to retain the cedar smell ... so I purchased some moderately priced shellac ... and proceeded to brush it on ... only to discover that either due to my poor technique or the vagaries of the medium I was getting waaayyyy too may brush strokes ... so I sanded that down to 400 grit (it had been 220 prior to first coat) and repeated that process this time wiping with a lint free cloth ... better, but still not the fairly blemish free finish I was after ... the shellac was drying too fast for me to get a clean 'swipe' across the full length/breadth of the surface ... soooo .. I sanded that coat back down to 400 ... by now I'd done a pretty good job of "filling" the wood with shellac ... but decided to now revert to my all time favorite hand wiped tung oil ... actually "Varathane Finish Oil" which is tung oil based. Tung oil takes a long time to cure ... but I have until Christmas ... and it's not a particularly hard finish ... but then ... cedar/redwood are neither particularly hard woods ... I fully expect the toy box to have some "character" added to it over time with use ... and after looking at my kid's toy boxes and the nicks and bumps I can relate to various episodes over their life ... I decided I'm ok with that ...

      So ... bottom line ... I used a couple coats of shellac as "sealer" and then finished off with hand wiped tung oil (Varathane).
      "Like an old desperado, I paint the town beige ..." REK
      Bade Millsap
      Bulverde, Texas
      => Bade's Personal Web Log
      => Bade's Lutherie Web Log

      Comment

      • Pappy
        The Full Monte
        • Dec 2002
        • 10481
        • San Marcos, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 (x2)

        #4
        Nice work. So much so that you better check to see that it doen't become a blanket chest rather than a toy box after Christmas.
        Don, aka Pappy,

        Wise men talk because they have something to say,
        Fools because they have to say something.
        Plato

        Comment

        • shoottx
          Veteran Member
          • May 2008
          • 1240
          • Plano, Texas
          • BT3000

          #5
          Very Cool

          It certainly will be a treasure chest for years!
          Often in error - Never in doubt

          Mike

          Comment

          • dbhost
            Slow and steady
            • Apr 2008
            • 9501
            • League City, Texas
            • Ryobi BT3100

            #6
            Nery nice. I need to get my tail up to M&G Sawmill to pick up some Aromatic Red Cedar for a Blanket Chest. I am going to try to pick the most solid red I can find so I can have a consistent look to the box...

            John Nixon from Eagle Lake Woodworking has a GREAT series of videos on how to build one.
            Oak Blanket Chest video 1 0f 3.
            Oak Blanket Chest video 2 of 3.
            Oak Blanket Chest video 3 of 3.

            Seeing John's videos, and your finished product give me WAY more confidence that I can do this and come out with a great chest.

            Thanks for the motivation!
            Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

            Comment

            • scmhogg
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2003
              • 1839
              • Simi Valley, CA, USA.
              • BT3000

              #7
              Bade,

              That's really nice looking. I love the color and grain in the cedar. I am also pleased that you used the safety closers on the lid.

              Steve
              I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong. Bertrand Russell

              Comment

              • BadeMillsap
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2005
                • 868
                • Bulverde, Texas, USA.
                • Grizzly G1023SL

                #8
                Thank you for the nice comments!

                Yes the safety closers were kinda mandatory in my mind ... I have to say they worked very well once I figured out how they actually work ... but the packaging does nothing to clue one into how they actually function.

                dbhost - enjoy your trip to M&G Sawmill ... Michael and his dad are really nice folks and have an excellent inventory of wood. I'll make several more trips over the next few years I am sure.
                "Like an old desperado, I paint the town beige ..." REK
                Bade Millsap
                Bulverde, Texas
                => Bade's Personal Web Log
                => Bade's Lutherie Web Log

                Comment

                • chopnhack
                  Veteran Member
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 3779
                  • Florida
                  • Ryobi BT3100

                  #9
                  Came out great! I am sure the family will really appreciate it.
                  A question on the shellac, was it drying too fast because it was hot/dry in the shop? In the future, if those conditions were true, I believe they make a retarder for the shellac. I know that I had a similar problem with spraying lacquer in temps over 85.
                  I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

                  Comment

                  • dbhost
                    Slow and steady
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 9501
                    • League City, Texas
                    • Ryobi BT3100

                    #10
                    I have heard those guys are tops... Lots of fellow Texans use them. The stuff they mill is quality stuff, and I like supporting the little guy...

                    I am curious about what you guys mean by "safety closers"... What exactly is that? I have seen toy chests with little, uh, well they look like the gas struts that you put on a car hood, but smaller...
                    Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                    Comment

                    • LCHIEN
                      Super Moderator
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 21978
                      • Katy, TX, USA.
                      • BT3000 vintage 1999

                      #11
                      Originally posted by dbhost
                      I have heard those guys are tops... Lots of fellow Texans use them. The stuff they mill is quality stuff, and I like supporting the little guy...

                      I am curious about what you guys mean by "safety closers"... What exactly is that? I have seen toy chests with little, uh, well they look like the gas struts that you put on a car hood, but smaller...
                      http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(k5...?SKU=998013131

                      these have counterbalance springs so the lid won't slam shut on little fingers. Also, I think they are made to not have any pinch points in the hinge, also.

                      When the OP posted the pics that was the first thing I checked for too.
                      Loring in Katy, TX USA
                      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                      Comment

                      • lrogers
                        Veteran Member
                        • Dec 2002
                        • 3853
                        • Mobile, AL. USA.
                        • BT3000

                        #12
                        That is very nice! I'm sure it will be passed on to HIS son some day.
                        Larry R. Rogers
                        The Samurai Wood Butcher
                        http://splash54.multiply.com
                        http://community.webshots.com/user/splash54

                        Comment

                        • BadeMillsap
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2005
                          • 868
                          • Bulverde, Texas, USA.
                          • Grizzly G1023SL

                          #13
                          Shellac woes ...

                          chopnhack - well in this part of Texas the humidity wildly swings between 30% and 70% any given week this time of the year ... but actually on the days I was doing the initial finish coats it was fairly dry. I suspect much of my problem with shellac is purely my technique (or lack there of) ... I USUALLY either spray with HVLP a poly finish, use a wipe on poly or for indoor furniture I like to wipe on several (as in 5-6) coats of tung oil (generally a "finish oil" not the pure tung oil). I'll try and remember the retarder idea when I give shellac another shot.

                          Yep those are the closers (LCHEIN's post) .. although I bought mine from Rockler and got a right and left side mount vs the center mount identified in the link. I looked at several types ... gas vs spring and decided to go for the spring because they were physically smaller and in my opinion less likely to interfere with toys as they flew in and out of the box.

                          I appreciate the comments. ... now on to the next project ... dimensioning the white oak for the crib/youth bed/full bed ... using Rockler plan #30351 as a guide but will modify to suit my preferences. Gotta be finished mid-March!
                          "Like an old desperado, I paint the town beige ..." REK
                          Bade Millsap
                          Bulverde, Texas
                          => Bade's Personal Web Log
                          => Bade's Lutherie Web Log

                          Comment

                          Working...