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Friends,
It’s been a while since I last contributed a post, let alone a project, to this place. The shop itself had been dormant until about a couple of months ago when LOML and I decided to renovate the 2nd floor bath. Although we hired contractors to do majority of the work, I managed to convince her that I would do the woodworking.
So here’s Phase 1 of my Second Floor Bath Project. The primary wood is panga panga and the secondary wood is white oak.
The Base:
The aprons have haunched tenons that join into 1.5” mortises on the legs. I made the tenons as long as possible which required them to be mitered.
The taper on the two inside edges of each leg begins 0.25” from the bottom of the apron.
The front apron and the drawer fronts were cut from a single board. The gap between the drawer openings was determined by the diameter of the drain pipe.
The drawers run on a very simple guide system, which consists of two pairs of runners that sit on two rails glued on the front and rear aprons. The runners sit about 1/32” above the bottom of the drawer opening. Each runner has a strip glued on to the appropriate side to serve as a drawer guide.
The Top:
I had three 8” wide boards for the top, two of which came from the same board. (That explains why the rear part of the top is darker.) I jigsawed the edge-glued top to length and routed the ends straight with a flush-trim bit and a straightedge. The amount of overhang on the side was determined by a soffit that would be constructed on the corner of the wall to hide the pipes (hole in the wall is partly visible in the pics).
Button blocks join the top to the base.
The Drawers:
I made the drawers last because they required the most guts: I hand-cut the half-blind dovetails. They’re not perfect, but I’m happy with them
. The sides, bottom, and back are made from 0.5” white oak. The back is dadoed into the sides.
The Backsplash:
The backsplash that you see in the pic is not how I originally designed it. The middle portion was only going to be as high as the sink, but Murphy reared his ugly head when the faucet was being installed. The escutcheon on the faucet would not tighten up to the wall, creating a 0.25” gap. The plumber suggested caulking the gap and that was when I very politely asked him to leave and come back after I had figured out and implemented a solution. Well, the solution is what you see in the pic: I removed the already installed backsplash that was constructed according to the original design, resawed it, planed the resawn pieces to 0.25”, and edge-glued them to create an entirely new backsplash. It is quite plain but I’m sure it looks a lot better than caulk. In retrospect, I think the brushed-nickel faucet looks a lot better coming out of the dark panga panga than out of the taupe wall.
The vanity is finished with about six coats of spar urethane and several coats of paste wax.
I’m glad to have finally completed this project as I have Phase 2 (a medicine cabinet) and Phase 3 (a built-in cabinet) to work on next!
Thanks for looking!
It’s been a while since I last contributed a post, let alone a project, to this place. The shop itself had been dormant until about a couple of months ago when LOML and I decided to renovate the 2nd floor bath. Although we hired contractors to do majority of the work, I managed to convince her that I would do the woodworking.
So here’s Phase 1 of my Second Floor Bath Project. The primary wood is panga panga and the secondary wood is white oak.
The Base:
The aprons have haunched tenons that join into 1.5” mortises on the legs. I made the tenons as long as possible which required them to be mitered.
The taper on the two inside edges of each leg begins 0.25” from the bottom of the apron.
The front apron and the drawer fronts were cut from a single board. The gap between the drawer openings was determined by the diameter of the drain pipe.
The drawers run on a very simple guide system, which consists of two pairs of runners that sit on two rails glued on the front and rear aprons. The runners sit about 1/32” above the bottom of the drawer opening. Each runner has a strip glued on to the appropriate side to serve as a drawer guide.
The Top:
I had three 8” wide boards for the top, two of which came from the same board. (That explains why the rear part of the top is darker.) I jigsawed the edge-glued top to length and routed the ends straight with a flush-trim bit and a straightedge. The amount of overhang on the side was determined by a soffit that would be constructed on the corner of the wall to hide the pipes (hole in the wall is partly visible in the pics).
Button blocks join the top to the base.
The Drawers:
I made the drawers last because they required the most guts: I hand-cut the half-blind dovetails. They’re not perfect, but I’m happy with them
. The sides, bottom, and back are made from 0.5” white oak. The back is dadoed into the sides. The Backsplash:
The backsplash that you see in the pic is not how I originally designed it. The middle portion was only going to be as high as the sink, but Murphy reared his ugly head when the faucet was being installed. The escutcheon on the faucet would not tighten up to the wall, creating a 0.25” gap. The plumber suggested caulking the gap and that was when I very politely asked him to leave and come back after I had figured out and implemented a solution. Well, the solution is what you see in the pic: I removed the already installed backsplash that was constructed according to the original design, resawed it, planed the resawn pieces to 0.25”, and edge-glued them to create an entirely new backsplash. It is quite plain but I’m sure it looks a lot better than caulk. In retrospect, I think the brushed-nickel faucet looks a lot better coming out of the dark panga panga than out of the taupe wall.
The vanity is finished with about six coats of spar urethane and several coats of paste wax.
I’m glad to have finally completed this project as I have Phase 2 (a medicine cabinet) and Phase 3 (a built-in cabinet) to work on next!
Thanks for looking!
Attached Files
Turaj (in Toronto)
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