Ripping a 2x8 to 2x5 1/2 inches

[Skeezix]

I have some 2x8s that I would like to cut so that they are tapered along their length to 5 1/2 inches wide. Can I do this on my BT3 table saw or should I just use a circular saw?

[LCHIEN]

A 2x8 is normally 7.5" wide; so you want to taper it from 7.5 down to 5.5 along the whole length, of... 72? 96? inches?
Or a cut down piece, say 48" long?

You could do it with a circular saw; I don't like that because its hard to make it perfectly straight by hand and its very hard to support being long and skinny. The base plate of the circ saw is as wide as the workpiece, so there's no room to clamp a guide fence.

They make taper jig for using on table saws for this purpose. but they are about $25 and I'd say it might be hard to use for a 8 foot long cut.


They sell expensive jigs for longer tapers:


If its a one time deal, and has to be 6 or 8 feet long, You'll can make a simple jig.
It depends on whether it has to be really ruler straight or so-so straight, I can give you the details here if you need them. Just ask

[dbhost]

2x8 stock comes in a variety of lengths. You did not specify how long your 2x8 stock is.
The most common is 8 foot. Although 12 and 16 feet are not uncomon.

That is not going to be an easy cut to make if you are wanting to taper from 7.5" to 5.5" along an 8'. The longer you go the harder it is going to be.

Most cutting guides limit out at 8', and remember you are going to have added length because you are going diagonal

You will have the challenge of supporting a circular saw over a narrow board for that length, and freehand is just a terrible idea.

A tapering jig like LCHIEN mentioned would be a better idea, but still supporting that long stock is going to be problematic, but not impossible. Roller stands to support the stock into the saw and out will keep it from dipping and allow for a safer cut.

[leehljp]

I would get a straight 2x4 the same length of the 2x8. Add a Stop on the back end to push the 2x8. ON the front end, I would add a spacer to the 2x4 that would cut the 2x8 at the 5 1/2 in.

It is exactly like the taper jigs above but using a straight 2x4 the same length of the 2x8s, and a spacer on the front end. I have done this before on 8ft long boards. The one hard thing to do is getting a straight 2 x 4, and it works better with oak or something else that won't flex like soft pine. If you do use pine, get a good 2x6 and rip the edges so that you do have a straight edge to run along the fence.

When sawing long boards, and you have a line to cut, use the line to get started, but look and feed along the fence!!!!!!!! Too many times have I watched people try to cut the line, or try to watch the board as it feeds into the blade. That causes the hand to wobble a bit, or force the board away from the fence or into the fence - causing hint of a rocking motion resulting in a cut board that is not straight. To keep a cut straight keep the eyes along the fence, make the hands push the board in a manner that keeps it beside the fence on BOTH ends as it cuts. Straight Cuts!