BT3100 Losing Power

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  • ImpiousOne
    Handtools only
    • Jun 2023
    • 3

    BT3100 Losing Power

    Bought this saw used 3 years ago. I cut 3/4" MDF almost exclusively. Used it the first year with no problems on 3/4" MDF. Pulled it out last year to use it and it can't get more than 6" into a cut of the MDF without losing significant blade speed and bogging down during the cut. Tried multiple times to make sure it wasn't binding on the fence. I'm not using the blade guard so it's not binding there. I thought the blade was the issue so I had it professionally sharpened, yet the issue persists. Put it away lat year frustrated. Just took it out again today and still having the same issue.

    This is clearly a saw problem as it worked fine for one season. What can I do to fix this? Could it be a belt problem? If it is a belt/etc what is a good place to source parts?

    Thank you in advance.
  • twistsol
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 2893
    • Cottage Grove, MN, USA.
    • Ridgid R4512, 2x ShopSmith Mark V 520, 1951 Shopsmith 10ER

    #2
    If the motor itself is losing power, I would think most likely that it is the brushes which are less than $20 on eBay.

    Welcome to the site.
    Last edited by twistsol; 06-05-2023, 08:17 PM.
    Chr's
    __________
    An ethical man knows the right thing to do.
    A moral man does it.

    Comment

    • mpc
      Senior Member
      • Feb 2005
      • 979
      • Cypress, CA, USA.
      • BT3000 orig 13amp model

      #3
      A few ideas come to mind. Motor brushes as twistsol suggested certainly. Other ideas:
      MDF makes a lot of fine sawdust that floats around if you do not have a vacuum connected to the saw. The motor may be loaded with dust... the saw may need a good internal cleaning.

      Belts could be stripped. The BT3 series uses a pair of toothed belts. When stored in a non-climate controlled area like a garage or shed, the heat bakes them and slowly degrades them. You may find the belts have disintegrated into a stringy mess. If the saw is ever jammed the belts usually get their teeth shredded... which is cheaper than cooking the motor.

      Poor electrical power. Can you try a different circuit - not just a different outlet but one that is on a different circuit breaker/fuse? If you are using an extension cord it may not be able to handle the amperage of the saw causing a voltage loss. Thick-wire extension cords are better than normal extension cords, keep them as short as possible too. One way to test: get one of those simple 3-way splitter things that plugs into a wall outlet and gives you 3 new outlets. Plug it into the outlet on the side of the saw, plug the saw's stubby cord into that splitter, and plug a light with a regular incandescent bulb (not a LED or florescent bulb) into one of the other outlets. Turn the light on and then start the saw. If the light dims then the electrical power to the saw is deficient. If the light stays bright, try making a cut. When the saw bogs down, look at the light again: if it has dimmed then there is a power problem. A power outlet and wiring with just a little resistance will allow the saw to start normally (and a light will be normal brightness) but when the saw is under load and demanding more amperage that resistance will rear its ugly head and cause problems.

      You do have both spacers and both stabilizer washers installed, right? Otherwise the arbor nut might be bottoming out on the arbor threads (feeling tight to you) before the blade is properly clamped. A simple test: take the throat plate off and raise the blade fully. Use a Sharpie or other pen that will write on metal... make a mark on the nut and on the blade that line up. Lower the blade, re-install the throat plate, and make a cut. After the saw bogs, raise the blade and remove the throat plate again. See if your Sharpie marks are still lined up or not... if not, the blade is slipping because something is preventing the arbor nut from properly tightening the washers and spacers. I would expect to see scratch marks from the washers on the sides of your blade if it slipped.

      mpc

      Comment

      • Jim Frye
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2002
        • 1051
        • Maumee, OH, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3000 & BT3100

        #4
        Are you using any form of dust collection with this saw? MDF is a messy dust maker. I agree the first place to look are the brushes, but there may be dust build up in the saw and it's bogging down from that. Also, the universal motor will draw more than the rated 15 amps. and if it cannot, it will bog down in heavy cuts. My BT3000 dates from 1993, runs on a 20 amp., 12 ga. circuit, with 12 ga. wiring all the way to the motor, and has very effective dust collection. The motor brushes are original, even though I bought two sets many years ago. Hint: if you have replacement parts, you will never need them. It will rip 3" thick hard maple without pause with a 24T blade easily. The multi-V groove drive belts on my saw are from 1994 when I melted them by jamming the blade under a new zero clearance throat plate. I also have spare belts.

        And welcome to the forums.
        Last edited by Jim Frye; 06-05-2023, 09:05 PM.
        Jim Frye
        The Nut in the Cellar.
        ”Sawdust Is Man Glitter”

        Comment

        • ImpiousOne
          Handtools only
          • Jun 2023
          • 3

          #5
          Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'm using the same circuit and we haven't added any appliances so I don't think it's an power electrical power issue. I haven't done a deep dive on cleaning the motor. I am using all of the hardware that was on the blade when I bought it. And I didn't make any changes from one season to the next but I will double check and make sure the blace isn't spinning. After that and clea ing the motor I'll look into brushes then the belt.

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Internet Fact Checker
            • Dec 2002
            • 20920
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            from the BT3 FAQ
            Power can be lost or misused under certain circumstances. If you are having trouble the following may help:
            • Make sure your saw is not starved for electrical power (see question on power wiring for the saw) – no extension cords, (or if you must, very short, heavy duty-12 gage- extension cords less than 10 feet long), dedicated 15-20 Amp circuit with no other loads.
            • Make sure that nothing is binding or hanging – Rip fence must be aligned, properly, in particular, also the splitter/riving knife, sometimes the wood catches on the plastic piece at the end of the fence or on the outfeed table or even the throat plate.
            • Make sure your blade is clean and not fouled with sticky resin as often happens after cutting pine. Try soaking the blade in Simple Green (a commercially available cleaner) and scrubbing to clean it. A good 24-tooth ripping blade will rip faster and more efficiently than most 36, 40, 60 or 80-tooth blades because it has deep, wide gullets to carry away the material, instead of balling it up in small gullets.

            I am reminded of a guy who said his saw was cutting very poorly until the day he found that he installed the blade so it was running the wrong way... Not that it could happen to you, but just sayin'.

            you say you are not using the blade guard, are you using a riving knife? Sometimes the wood closes up behind the blade a riving knife prevents that. No riving knife and the wood can pinch the blade. But then again, MDF doesn't usually have that kind of issue.

            Blow out the motor - a lot of dust can cause problems and MDF is one of the worst.

            That fact that it slows down 6" into the cut is worrisome. Does that mean its cutting OK at first? That goes with the closing up behind the blade.
            How thick is this MDF? Have you tried cutting thin stuff?
            Is the rip fence properly parallel with the blade?

            Cross cuts working OK?

            The kind of toothed belts the BT3 has don't slip, they usually work or break.


            Last edited by LCHIEN; 06-06-2023, 05:55 PM.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • Jim Frye
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2002
              • 1051
              • Maumee, OH, USA.
              • Ryobi BT3000 & BT3100

              #7
              OP: If you haven't already, take a look at the articles section here. There are scads of "how to" articles written by BT3000 users and other woodworkers. Very useful information.
              Jim Frye
              The Nut in the Cellar.
              ”Sawdust Is Man Glitter”

              Comment

              • ImpiousOne
                Handtools only
                • Jun 2023
                • 3

                #8
                Originally posted by LCHIEN

                Blow out the motor - a lot of dust can cause problems and MDF is one of the worst.
                Finally had a chance (and a need) to look at this again and cleaning out the motor and bearings seemed to do the trick.

                Comment

                • LCHIEN
                  Internet Fact Checker
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 20920
                  • Katy, TX, USA.
                  • BT3000 vintage 1999

                  #9
                  Glad that helped... Makes sense. MDF dust is really bad stuff.
                  Loring in Katy, TX USA
                  If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                  BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                  Comment

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