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Possible Handwheel Fix/Repair

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  • Possible Handwheel Fix/Repair

    New to the forum, been lurking for a while!
    I recently picked up a BT3000 for $60 and it needs some work but I don't mind. When I got the saw the blade wouldn't raise up and down and the gears would start to move and stop and the handle would just spin. I pulled the handwheel off and the hole in the handle with 2 flats to mate with the shaft that drives the gears to raise and lower the blade looked pretty much like a round hole with no flats in it. I could tell that the support ribs around the hole were more oval looking than round. The plastic had not been chewed away, just deformed. I suspect that the raise and lowering mechanism had gotten dirty and the previous owner tried to force the handwheel and left it sitting for a very long period of time with the flats of the handwheel aligned with the round part of the shaft and the handwheel had sort of permanently taken that round shape. The shims for the raising and lowering mechanism are in place as they should be and the aluminum threads are not stripped out (yeah for me!) so I'm pretty sure it is just dirty and not wanting to move as it should. For now I wanted to see if I could work on the handwheel and get it back to usable condition. I know a little about plastics and I know what ever plastic the handwheel is made of is some sort of thermal molded plastic. Those sorts of plastics tend to want to got back to the original position they were molded in when heated enough to make them pliable. I was able to heat the area in the pictures that I have my fingers on with a small embossing heat gun which is good for heating up small areas like this. Once heated enough to make it shiny in all the areas I needed to reposition I clamped it in place and left it to cool. It worked and the hole is once again in the correct shape and it is very rigid as it was once upon a time. Thermoplastics can be heated enough to reshape and then cooled to maintain that shape without losing much of its original strength. This should work just fine if anyone ever finds themselves in a similar situation. Of course I have more work to do before I can test the repaired handwheel, so I will be sure to report back on how well it actually worked out.

  • #2
    Be sure to read the FAQ about the shim issues that the BT3000 (not the 3100) had. It could very well be what caused this, and still present on your saw. Pretty well documented on how to fix it though.

    Comment


    • #3
      I had already read through and checked the shims. They are in the right position. There is a lot of gunk in that area, looks like oil/sawdust mix. I'm sure someone used oil to lube that and it ended up collecting a bunch of sawdust and other dust and gumed up the works in there.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by The Fishing Hobby View Post
        I had already read through and checked the shims. They are in the right position. There is a lot of gunk in that area, looks like oil/sawdust mix. I'm sure someone used oil to lube that and it ended up collecting a bunch of sawdust and other dust and gumed up the works in there.
        that sounds about right.
        good luck on your repair
        Keep us posted and welcome to the forum

        Where do you fish? Me, Galveston Bay
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks! Lots of great info here for sure! My user name is my YouTube channel name. I have a fishing related channel...mostly DIY fishing related stuff. I fish freshwater almost exclusively and mostly around my home state of Arkansas. Feel free to stop by my channel and subscribe if you like it:
          https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqn...buFFlnKETAesiA
          I actually bought the Ryobi because I have always liked the design/unique features of them and I ran across this one at the right price AND I could use a second table saw to help out with producing parts for the fishing rod building jigs I make and sell on eBay.
          I already have an older Craftsman cast iron top contractors style table saw (I've had it for over 20 years).

          So here I am

          If I do any sort of mods or repairs that haven't been brought up before, I'll make sure to post them for others to see in the future. This is a great resource for these saws.

          Comment


          • #6
            This is not directly related, bu when working with the blade adjustment wheel, things can get messed up with just a bit of mis-adjustment behind the wheel.

            Here is a link to the fixing problems behind the wheel:

            https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...ted-and-solved
            Hank Lee

            Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Fishing Hobby and others,

              I just bought a new-to-me BT3100-1 and also have the dreaded split hand wheel cog which I've super-glued - we'll see how that goes. I'll also clean and dry lube the transfer bolts.

              Curious if your re-melt approach worked out ok?

              I'd really like to find a metal alternative hand wheel - I read about the similar sears model with an adapter and metal wheel but apparently those are also no longer available.

              I can't even find a plastic replacement - Amazon, etc. - I did see a BT3000 wheel on eBay.

              Thanks for any info - seems like a decent unit except for the plastic wheel.

              Comment


              • #8
                Well, the super glue fix for the cheap plastic original wheel did not last (as expected). I'm now on the hunt for a compatible Craftsman wheel - perhaps #818526 which is metal with a set screw. Neither Ryobi nor Granger had any suggestions to replace this obsolete part. I sometimes see an original plastic part on the Internet but am not interested in continuing to replace plastic wheels. I saw some Internet chatter about using two Craftsman parts (metal wheel and adapter) but those parts are also now obsolete.

                I cleaned the transfer bolts and gears with a soft brass bristle brush - gears had some sawdust in them but not bad. Sprayed bolts and cogs with dry silicone. Oddly, raising the blade is quite smooth with even wheel pressure. Lowering the blade required more wheel pressure and you can feel a little bump-bump in the shaft (using an adjustable wrench). I also brushed and rubbed down the motor shim/shafts/rails - they seemed nice and smooth as well.

                I'm very reluctant to apply silicone grease or oil to the two opposed cogs due to potential sawdust buildup - although the unit has a dust collector encasement - so I just sprayed some dry lube on the cogs which seem well aligned, no teeth missing, etc.

                Will post here the results of my search for a metal wheel.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Steve, If you haven’t found a metal crank I have some. I may have a complete assembly or just the wheel without the handle but making and attaching one should be duck soup. Let me know if you’re still looking and I will try to put something together and list it on eBay at a high price with best offer accepted. You can send me a private message here and we can work it out as far as the price I will offer to you.

                  Please note that when I tried this before, a person other than who I was trying to set it up for paid the listed price.

                  due to various reasons I have been totally inactive on eBay and sawdustzone- I won’t sell outside of eBay as it works well for me as far as getting paid, setting up shipping thru USPS and having the shipment picked up at my front porch.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Steve Sandridge View Post
                    Well, the super glue fix for the cheap plastic original wheel did not last (as expected). . .
                    I don't want to stop you from searching for a metal wheel, but I do want to give a suggestion in the situation above. Super glue and even normal epoxy are not very good with gear, tension, and pressure glues when stress is added. BUT I have had fair results with epoxy putty. It is not pretty but I overbuild in areas that are not mating with other pieces and epoxy putty holds much better. It is not the best but my experience has been that it is 2 to 4 times stronger.
                    Hank Lee

                    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Well here is my planned replacement for my handwheel.

                      Knowing the handwheel is plastic and breakable, and that the shaft is unique to the saw, I planned some insurance. I bought a standard metal handwheel with 1/2" ID from Grizzly for about 7 bucks and an eBay BT3000 adapter for about $14 in 2013. I have tried to contact the seller recently by email and through eBay but have not received an answer.
                      I never installed it because frankly I couldn't easily break the screw loose on the OEM handwheel. Figuring I could when it became necessary. https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...-handwheel-off

                      Meanwhile I have drilled and tapped the handwheel for a 1/4"-20 set screw.
                      I wish I could locate more adapters for your guys to solve the problem but I could not. Its not a complex machining job to make some more if someone were to pursue it; I'm not sure a 3-D printed part could be strong enough, but it might be,.

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	20200718_114845crop.jpg Views:	0 Size:	197.5 KB ID:	839888Click image for larger version  Name:	20200718_115003crop.jpg Views:	0 Size:	189.3 KB ID:	839889Click image for larger version  Name:	20200718_114809crop.jpg Views:	0 Size:	107.0 KB ID:	839890Click image for larger version  Name:	20200718_114759_crop.jpg Views:	0 Size:	114.3 KB ID:	839891Click image for larger version  Name:	20200718_153957resize.jpg Views:	0 Size:	82.2 KB ID:	839892
                      Last edited by LCHIEN; 07-18-2020, 10:25 PM.
                      Loring in Katy, TX USA
                      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This is the drawing for the half inch Handwheel to BT3000/BT3100 Adapter
                        I did not design this, it was sold by an eBayer 7 years ago and I just copied the dimensions. My part was cut in aluminum.
                        THere are really no critical dimensions except the small shaft mist be less than 0.500" and the cavity should be large enough to fit the BT3000 handwheel shaft.
                        Click image for larger version

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                        Loring in Katy, TX USA
                        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Could a clamp of some kind fit around the wheel shaft? I don't have a BT any more so I can't look. I've had great success with hose clamps to repair things like this, particularly the crimp-on type and not the screw-driven type.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Carlos View Post
                            Could a clamp of some kind fit around the wheel shaft? I don't have a BT any more so I can't look. I've had great success with hose clamps to repair things like this, particularly the crimp-on type and not the screw-driven type.
                            I was thinking the same thing, but was wondering if the "Teeth" on the outside of the hub have a purpose and engage with something. If not, maybe they could be filed down and the hub can be reinforced with a screwless clamp, like an Oeitiker Stepless

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                            • #15
                              It looks like maybe the splines on the outside of the wheel shaft might have something to do with turning/engaging the blade tilt (when locking lever full right).

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