Working on my BT3, can't get handwheel off

[LCHIEN]

I'm trying to get the handwheel off my BT3000.
The hex socket head bolt that holds the wheel on is stuck.

Did they use a thread-locker (like loc-tite blue) at the factory?

When I really try to crank on it I can't hold the wheel enough to counteract the torque and i'm afraid something is going to break.

Is this a job for an impact driver? or how would you get it off. Folklore says to heat the bolt with a torch but that seems like an invitation to melt something (handwheel of course is plastic).

[TB Roye]

Can you spray some WD-40 or Penetrating oil on the shaft? If you can do that then give the end of the wrench a sharp tap the break any corrosion loose. Could be a little Texas humidity got to the bolt.

Tom

[wardprobst]

How about heating the bolt with a soldering iron?
DP

[aiyou]

When I last disassembled at bt3000 for parts, I noted that the bolt had a blue threadlocker on it.. Not sure if that might have been added by the previous owner, tho.

Rob

[dbhost]

I had the handwheel on my BT3100 off to test fit a different one which I was not happy with. The bolt has thread locker on it. However even with thread locker, you shouldn't have to apply so much torque as to be concerned something is going to break... I would actually be concerned the bolt is cross threaded.

[Stytooner]

In the Army we called using a flame to heat up something like this a "Smoke Wrench".
You don't try to heat the bolt. You heat the nut or shaft in this case.
Just the act of heating will usually break a corrosion bond though.

I reserve the smoke wrench for steel on steel fasteners that are fairly easily accessed. I think the hand wheel takes a smoke wrench off the table.

An impact driver is a good solid choice. It would be my first choice. Second would be to apply the few taps of the screw after penetrating oil was applied as previously mentioned by Tom.

[All Thumbs]

Just a regular drill driver with clutch set rather low, run in reverse for a half minute or so, will often provide enough vibration/jarring to loosen the bolt right up.

[dbhost]

That's actually a pretty decent idea from AllThumbs... I wonder how bad that is for the drill / driver clutch though...

[LCHIEN]

i think the impact driver will do the same thing, only it was designed to do it, rather than abusing the clutch.

[frumper64]

I would try putting some penetrating oil on it and then giving it the impact treatment. I have had very good luck with PB Blaster and have heard good things about Kroil. Both would do a much better job than WD 40 in loosening the nut. I have found very few things that I could not get apart after using PB Blaster on them. Heat would be my last resort given the plastic hand-wheel. With my luck I would end up with a stuck nut and a puddle of yellow plastic.

[dbhost]

I have a Ford truck with the 5.4L 3V engine, if you are familar with the spark plug problems with those you should know that I have used both, PB blaster seems to cut through rust / oxidation better, Aerokroil cuts through carbon build up better, although not quite as well as I would like...

For your saw, unless you are burning cheap gas in it that is I would go with PB Blaster. Not sure about over in Katy, but I know in the Bay Area, Walmart carries the stuff... Pretty cheap too!

[TB Roye]

That engine and spark plug problem was not one of Fords better Ideas. They used to blow the oil filter up/off and same with the spark plugs. I don't even try, take it to the dealer every 100K and pay the $400 that way if they F it up they pay. Before I retired worked for the CHP and we had 1500 Fords with the 4.3 -5.4 v8's no fun especially in the pickups and SUV's

Tom

[LCHIEN]

I have some Liquid Wrench...
How the heck do you apply it to a horizontal bolt with a head larger than the shank whose head is recessed inside the handwheel, w/o turning the saw on its back to get a gravity assist and pooling of the oil? Squirt it all around and let it find its own way in?

[Brian G]

Could you remove the side panel, wrap some rubber around the shaft to protect it, and grip the shaft with locking pliers while you remove the nut?

I'm betting you won't need much extra holding power, but more than the plastic could handle.

[mnmphd]

I recently disassembled a BT3000 picked up for parts. I recall the bolt holding in the handle did have blue thread lock on it. I think I grabbed the shaft with locking pliers and was able to break the bolt it loose. I had the saw largely apart at this time so access was pretty easy.