Blade elevation problem

[All Thumbs]

If your selling terms are other than the standard "first come first served", it's kind to state that in the ad. Sometimes people will post "subject to local sale" or something like that to let others know.

Well, if anyone else had a motor end cap they want to sell, I'm still looking since I apparently won't be getting this one.

Edit: Thanks for the email contacts, everyone. The part I am seeking is the bracket or plate that attaches the motor to the saw and raises and lowers the blade. The hole for the threaded rod that raises and lowers the blade is stripped on mine, and repair attempts have not been successful. There are apparently several variants on this part and the one Ryobi now sells under the "correct" part number is not the right part for this saw.

Is there a way to tell by looking at spare parts we may have whether the ones in our stocks would be the RIGHT one? Like is there a part # stamped on it or anything?

[woodturner]

Is there a way to tell by looking at spare parts we may have whether the ones in our stocks would be the RIGHT one? Like is there a part # stamped on it or anything?

I'll take a picture this weekend and upload it. It appears that Ryobi made at least a couple of variations of the part but used the same part number.

Thanks.

[LCHIEN]

Woodturner, have you considered repair by putting a threaded insert in it?
That would resolve your confusing part number issues and also give you a better than new bracket since the lifting hole would now have a steel thread that would wear much better. If you don't know of or haven't tried this I can locate links describing in detail where the user fixed it himself or took it to an auto repair machine shop and had it done for little money. Involves drilling out the hole and putting in the bushing.

[woodturner]

Woodturner, have you considered repair by putting a threaded insert in it?

Yes, after our earlier discussion, I put a threaded insert in it. Over time, however, the threaded insert worked loose. It appeared that the walls of the aluminum "boss" or "tube" were too thin to hold the larger diameter threads required for the threaded insert.

I tried the helicoil type and the full threaded insert like a timesert, but neither lasted very long. I bought this saw used, and it's possible the previous owner's repair attempts damaged or weakened the casting.

[Black wallnut]

I've moved this discussion to its own thread.

[All Thumbs]

Yes, after our earlier discussion, I put a threaded insert in it. Over time, however, the threaded insert worked loose. It appeared that the walls of the aluminum "boss" or "tube" were too thin to hold the larger diameter threads required for the threaded insert.

I tried the helicoil type and the full threaded insert like a timesert, but neither lasted very long. I bought this saw used, and it's possible the previous owner's repair attempts damaged or weakened the casting.

I've often wondered about having to perform this repair on my own saw some day. It is good to know that the repair might not be everlasting.

A few years ago I did purchase a couple of BT3100's when I found them on craigslist for about $50 each. Two, within weeks of each other. I basically sold/gave away/recycled all the non-moving parts and held onto the moving ones, figuring I'd be able to use the parts to fix my daily driver.

But now I'm wondering if that will work.

Once you post pictures I'll dig that stuff out and see if I have anything that will help you.

[woodturner]

Pictures of the motor end cap

The attached pictures show the end cap I need. The only numbers on the casting itself are shown in the first picture - "P 969" in the upper recess and "9 6" in the lower recess. The stripped "boss" is in the top of picture 1, in a side view.

Edit: The picture attachment didn't work, trying to figure out why...

[woodturner]

Trying again to attach pictures

The attached pictures show the end cap I need. The only numbers on the casting itself are shown in the picture on the right below - "P 969" in the upper recess and "9 6" in the lower recess. The stripped "boss" is on left in the left picture and you can sort of see the stripped threads. The boss is on the top in the right picture, in a side view.