missing screws for throat plate

[T...K21]

I'm missing two front screws for height adjustment for the throat plate. What size are they? I've gone to the hardware store twice and came back with the wrong size.

Thanks, T

[dbhost]

I don't recall off hand. Just take one to the hardware store and match it up... While you are there, grab a few extras, they are easy to lose...

FWIW, I do believe they are metric, not SAE, that should cut down your hunt time...

[LCHIEN]

the screws holding the throat plate down are 10-24 flat head screws.
Not sure about height adjustment screws (none on the BT3000)... does the BT3100 have height adjustment screws under the throat plate??

[dbhost]

I could have sworn they are metric... But Loring keeps records on these things. I keep it in my head which isn't the best place... Kind of messy up there...

Yes, the screws that hold the throat plate down do double duty to adjust throat plate height with things like the dado TP, or the factory throat plate. The only TP I use that doesn't use them as height adjusters are the Ryobi ZCTPs from the accessory kit.

[pelligrini]

The BT3000 parts manual lists them as 10-24 X 3/4 in. FLAT HD.. The BT3100 has a diffrent part number for the front one.

I didn't see a mention of using height adjustment screws in the manual.

My Ryobi ZCTPs use the 4 screw positions. I took care of the height differences when I made my wood inserts.

[durango dude]

I have the size information back at home - but take my advice ---- REPLACE THE SCREWS (don't ask me how I know..... but I'm darn lucky that I'm still a male.....)

[leehljp]

IIRC, it seems to me that the "height adjustment" screw holes were there for after market throat plates, or it was discovered that these holes could be used for that and some people did that. Not totally sure, but something is rolling around in my brain about this.

I will bet that Lee can add something on this subject, or even clarify it.

[LCHIEN]

oh, I remember now. There's two sets of holes, the original steel plate uses three holes, the plastic cut-your-own plates use a different four holes. The unused holes (whichever set you weren't using) could be used to prop up the plate by not screwing them down all the way.... that assumes either the holes in the table are countersinked, or, you put 10-24 set screws (e.g. no head, just a slot) into the unused holes, I presume. {P.S.} Or, you can insert a regular screw from the bottom and use the tip projecting upwards as a height set screw for the plate.

I think in the old days the set of four for the optional DIY plate were not threaded, the steel screws they supplied were self-tapping into the aluminum? You might have to run a 10-24 tap through the holes if you are using them for the first time, or it will be hard getting the screws in with normal force.

There was also a period of time when the factory screws put into the plate (on BT3100s) were so tight they were nearly impossible to get out.

[LCHIEN]

Dave, as far as I am aware, there is no metric hardware anywhere on the BT3's.

[T...K21]

Awsome! Thanks you guys. I'll stop at the hardware store again in the morn.

[Dal300]

Just as an FYI, in the accessory kit that I got with my BT3100 was 4 screws that fit the inner holes on the throat. These screws have stop nuts to set the adjustment and lock the height.

If anyone is interested I'll see if I can dig them out and take pictures tomorrow.

[LCHIEN]

FWIW, rather than adjust the height screws each time you interchange plates, I used metallized address labels to shim the plates. Each label is adhesive backed and is about 4 mils thick. I cut them into thin strips (as wide as the ledge on the opening in the saw) and stack them until the plate is perfectly level with the top. Need to put them three or four places around the perimeter probably near the screw holes. The sticky back ensures it stays with the plate once calibrated. That way each plate is perfectly leveled when I install it or change it out.

[RodKirby]

FWIW, rather than adjust the height screws each time you interchange plates, I used metallized address labels to shim the plates. Each label is adhesive backed and is about 4 mils thick. I cut them into thin strips (as wide as the ledge on the opening in the saw) and stack them until the plate is perfectly level with the top. Need to put them three or four places around the perimeter probably near the screw holes. The sticky back ensures it stays with the plate once calibrated. That way each plate is perfectly leveled when I install it or change it out.

I love simple one-time solutions

[JR]

... I used metallized address labels to shim the plates.

Myself, I'm a playing card man. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive. It's obviously more messy than your label idea, but I use them fo a lot of other things in the shop, most notably for sneaking up on a cut when using the crosscut sled. I'll clamp a stop block on the fence and make the cut close, then add playing cards until the length is just right.

This idea might be beneficial for anyone who has a deck with only 51 cards in it.

JR

[dbhost]

Dave, as far as I am aware, there is no metric hardware anywhere on the BT3's.

Must be rust on the brain again... No problem...