BT3K router table

[chopnhack]

LOL, I think I still have that accessory in its box sealed... I figured it could never handle the m12v hanging down off of it.

[wood wrangler]

Ok I found the thread here with the part numbers for the router throat plates. The sites in that thread don't carry them anymore but eReplacementParts has them... for the Craftsman version of the saw.

I also might have figured out the wood tear-out problem. I was feeding the wood to the left, but since I'm going between the bit's bearing and the fence I should've fed the wood the other way! Gotta try it the right way tomorrow and see if I can get clean cuts to get me thru the weekend (gotta finish a project soon!). I already have a 2.5" hole cut in the plywood template, but I might be able to back fill to patch me over if needed.

[Black wallnut]

Ok I found the thread here with the part numbers for the router throat plates. The sites in that thread don't carry them anymore but eReplacementParts has them... for the Craftsman version of the saw.

I also might have figured out the wood tear-out problem. I was feeding the wood to the left, but since I'm going between the bit's bearing and the fence I should've fed the wood the other way! Gotta try it the right way tomorrow and see if I can get clean cuts to get me thru the weekend (gotta finish a project soon!). I already have a 2.5" hole cut in the plywood template, but I might be able to back fill to patch me over if needed.

If you mean by this that you are passing the wood between the bearing and the fence so that you have a fence on one edge and the bit or bearing on the opposite edge of the wood DO NOT DO THIS! That is dangerous and can cause kickback or worse. Bearing guided bits need to be on the same side of the workpiece as the fence and if you mount your fence front to back the fence in on the right of the bit and the work piece is on the left and you feed away from you. If your fence is side to side, feed from right to left with the work in front of the bit.

[LCHIEN]

passing a wood workpiece between the fence and a bit is always a serious, serious no-no. It's apt to rip the piece from your hand and fling it across the room dragging your hand over the bit when it does so. Please don't do it.

With a bearing bit the 2 ways of doing it are:
1. have the bearing bit partially buried in the fence, e.g. a fence with an opening. You can have the bearing so its flush with the fence i which case its not really doing much except providing support when the workpiece is to one side, or the bearing is slightly proud of the fence in which case the fence is not really guiding the work.
2. Have a bearing bit with no fence. In which case you should use a router guide pin. Its a long explanation of the use but very important. See this link for example http://www.routerworkshop.com/safetypin01.html or search google for router guide pin use

Tearout. THis is quite common on end grain cuts with routers. It almost always happens. The only solutions:
use a backer piece
use a longer piece and cut off the torn out end
if routing four sides of a workpiece, do the end routs first then do the long grain edge routs last and it will hide the tearout.

[wood wrangler]

Thanks for the heads up, guys! I'll move up the fence and get it flush with the bit. Glad you're keeping me from getting in real trouble.

[trungdok]

Wood Wrangler, you might like this series of video about routing with Gary Rogowski: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ET3DzujNwU

[wood wrangler]

Good stuff!!