LOL, I think I still have that accessory in its box sealed... I figured it could never handle the m12v hanging down off of it.
BT3K router table
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Ok I found the thread here with the part numbers for the router throat plates. The sites in that thread don't carry them anymore but eReplacementParts has them... for the Craftsman version of the saw.
I also might have figured out the wood tear-out problem. I was feeding the wood to the left, but since I'm going between the bit's bearing and the fence I should've fed the wood the other way! Gotta try it the right way tomorrow and see if I can get clean cuts to get me thru the weekend (gotta finish a project soon!). I already have a 2.5" hole cut in the plywood template, but I might be able to back fill to patch me over if needed.Comment
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Ok I found the thread here with the part numbers for the router throat plates. The sites in that thread don't carry them anymore but eReplacementParts has them... for the Craftsman version of the saw.
I also might have figured out the wood tear-out problem. I was feeding the wood to the left, but since I'm going between the bit's bearing and the fence I should've fed the wood the other way! Gotta try it the right way tomorrow and see if I can get clean cuts to get me thru the weekend (gotta finish a project soon!). I already have a 2.5" hole cut in the plywood template, but I might be able to back fill to patch me over if needed.Donate to my Tour de Cure
marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©
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passing a wood workpiece between the fence and a bit is always a serious, serious no-no. It's apt to rip the piece from your hand and fling it across the room dragging your hand over the bit when it does so. Please don't do it.
With a bearing bit the 2 ways of doing it are:
1. have the bearing bit partially buried in the fence, e.g. a fence with an opening. You can have the bearing so its flush with the fence i which case its not really doing much except providing support when the workpiece is to one side, or the bearing is slightly proud of the fence in which case the fence is not really guiding the work.
2. Have a bearing bit with no fence. In which case you should use a router guide pin. Its a long explanation of the use but very important. See this link for example http://www.routerworkshop.com/safetypin01.html or search google for router guide pin use
Tearout. THis is quite common on end grain cuts with routers. It almost always happens. The only solutions:
use a backer piece
use a longer piece and cut off the torn out end
if routing four sides of a workpiece, do the end routs first then do the long grain edge routs last and it will hide the tearout.Last edited by LCHIEN; 12-13-2012, 11:24 PM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Wood Wrangler, you might like this series of video about routing with Gary Rogowski: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ET3DzujNwUComment
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