BT3000 vs 3100

[TheDude]

I'm new to this, but decided on a used BT3x saw. I've found several 3000's for between two and three hundred dollars depending on extra's etc. I did find an almost brand new 3100 in AZ for $150. No extra's but basically a brand new saw. Is there anything about the 3000 that increases it's value over the 3100?

[Black wallnut]

Not really. The differences other than cosmetic that matter favor the BT3100. Most of the extras are not worth much IMHO except for the wide table kit and the Accessory table rear clamp which is part of the router and jigsaw kit. The long miter/ rip fence might also come in handy. For most of its retail life the bt3100 came with a users kit that contained lots of add-on's.

[LCHIEN]

My FAQ (see sig line ) explaines in detail the differences.
I personally like the BT3000 looks better but the BT3100 is mechanically improved in some respects, the most important being the improved shim retention.

Accessories are also discussed extensively in the FAQ. Valuable ones include the wide table kit and legs, outfeed table, microadjuster, router mounting kit. Extra aux table or SMT are useful, too.

Useless accessories - wheel kit, sawdust bag,

Miter clamp, miter slots, are a more personal taste as to usefullness.

[dbhost]

There are mostly cosmetic differences, which IMHO leans in favor of the BT3000, I have the 3100 and am not crazy about the Playskool color scheme... The shim retention of the 3100 is a worthy upgrade though...

Probably my favorite thing about the BT3000 in comparison to the 3100 is the box frame stand versus the splayed leg stand. The BT3000 base can be very easily enclosed for a space efficient under saw cabinet setup. The BT3100, not so much... (more angles to deal with).

My saw is more or less loaded out, I can tell you the accessories I felt have been worthwhile, and what have been not so useful.

#1. Miter slot tables. To took a LOT of patient adjustment, but I got mine dialed in. There are folks that say you can't align the miter slot tables. Honestly, my experience refutes that pretty solidly...

#2. Router / Jig saw kit. Mostly for that rear clamp. Yes the fence is SOMEWHAT useful, but setting it up is a real pain. Shop built fences work a whole lot better... The dust port is interesting though...

#3. Caster kit. Mine doesn't have it, but my BILs BT3000 does. Very useful

#4. Dust bag. You are far better off with a shop vac or dust collector. But lacking those, yeah, the dust bag has a valid use.

#5. Wide Table kit (rails and connectors), Very useful, except you need legs, and a top for it!

#6. Wide Table legs. Mine are actually "Craftsman" from the 22811.... Same thing, just different paint...

#7. Micro Adjuster. I want one BAD!

#8. Not sure the real name, but that flip out outfeed table...

#9. Not a Ryobi branded accessory, but probably my favorite, a Shark Guard. Mine is a Shark Guard SG-K1 with a 4" port, and it is probably too effective as it wants to suck up small cutoffs...

#10. Miter clamp. The miter clamp is somewhat useful, however the way it spreads the clamping force is, well... odd... I have 2 of them and if I use them at all, I use both at the same time to give me broader distribution of clamping force.. With just one the work piece seems to want to spin on it.. With 2 it stays put nicely... Probably more hassle than it is worth most of the time.

Honestly, my BT3100 isn't cosmetically the prettiest one out there, but I have it outfitted the way I like it, and it is a great machine. Very accurate. I would HIGHLY suggest you take a look at Lee Styron's web site, he has a BT3K alignment jig he talks about there, that will really help you set up your new saw to get the most out of it. (Google Lee Way Workshop for his site...). He's also the guy that makes the Shark Guard... Not the cheapest guard option out there, (keeping your stock one is cheapest) but certainly the best...

[TheDude]

Thank you all for the assist. I picked it up today. Basically brand new BT3100. Most accessories haven't even come out of the original boxes. He used the saw to cut baseboard and chair rail molding.

The original blade is brand new as he purchased a blade speciffically for the trim around his house. (that blade is still on the saw)

I think for $150, I did pretty ok. Now to start cutting... Both myself and various hardwoods.

Thank you again!

The dude

[jdon]

Great score- you have a right to gloat. The only thing I consider better about the 3000 is the base- easy to insert a shelf to hold small shopvac for DC. I never was able to figure out what those plastic clips along the side were for, though- IIRC the rip fence didn't fit.

[dbhost]

Congrats on the great score! I know you'll be happy...

I mentioned it above, and it bears repeating. Probably the best accessory for my BT has been my Shark Guard. Mind you, other than the fact that Lee is a fellow BT3Central guy (and moderator) I have no direct interest in his business. I am just that happy with his products... His product is first rate, and his customer service has really been spot on... You wouldn't be dealing with some faceless drone at some giant corporation, but the actual guy making the product. Sort of the production, management and chief bottle washer kind of gig... Not to mention he is a long time supporter of BT3Central...

[TheDude]

Thank you. Very excited to dive right in and start building. From what I've read digging through this forum, the original blade is pretty decent to start. Any suggestions on a good combination blade once this one has lived a full life?

[dbhost]

I have been very happy with the Freud Diablo D1040X, I have had one on my saw for 3 years, and it is just getting to the point it needs sharpening, but at the price point it is at, chances are I won't bother. Just buy a new one instead...

[jnesmith]

I picked it up today. Basically brand new BT3100.

The dude

There you go! Now, trick it our like this:

[TheDude]

There you go! Now, trick it our like this:

WOW!!! I don't even know what to say. Do you have a drawing, or plans for that bad boy?!? WOWOWOW!

[Knottscott]

...The original blade is brand new as he purchased a blade speciffically for the trim around his house. (that blade is still on the saw)

Congrats...I'd definitely rather pay $150 for a BT3100 than close to $300 for a BT3000.

The original blade on the earlier BT3100 was a 36T FTG blade made by Freud in Italy, and was a pretty nice blade. If it says "Made in Italy", it's likely made by Freud.

[LCHIEN]

Thank you. Very excited to dive right in and start building. From what I've read digging through this forum, the original blade is pretty decent to start. Any suggestions on a good combination blade once this one has lived a full life?

The BT3000 and the Early BT3100s had a Freud-made 36-T blade that was very nice. They all said Made in Italy.
The later ones had a blade of nearly identical configuration (pretty much a copy) that said Made in China. I never saw a comparison of the two to see if the cut of the China blade was as good as the Italian blade... copying the tooth and gullet configuration is one thing but duplicating the sharpness, tolerances and quality of the blade is another.

[Sawatzky]

I had the China made blade on mine and did not like it. I replaced it with a 40 tooth Hitachi which was a much cheaper and better blade IMO. I have since bought a Forrest WWII and it is one awesome blade.

[jnesmith]

WOW!!! I don't even know what to say. Do you have a drawing, or plans for that bad boy?!? WOWOWOW!

Sorry, not really. I might have a few partial 2D drawings in Sketchup somewhere on my hard drive. I also would be happy to provide any info my memory will allow if you decide to build something similar.

P.S.

I primarily relied on pictures, writeups, and drawings provided by others on this site. Those can be found here: http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?...#Mobile%20BT3s

They get most of the credit.