Help! BT-3100 Elevator problem

[Raffi]

Sad to say, my 3100 is having some trouble. After several years of service, I have encountered my first difficulty with this saw. It has seen very light use, logging a low amount of hours for the time I have owned it (since new).

I had noticed the past several times that it was getting more and more difficult to lift the blade. Lowering it seemed normal, as did adjusting the bevel. Now it is impossible to raise the blade, and seems reluctant to lower. Bevel is still working fine.

The height adjustment 'wheel' turns, and I feel some resistance, but it doesn not engage and raise or lower the blade.

Any suggestions?

[Skaning]

There are a couple of possibilities here, possibly three.

First place to look is at the "shims" on either side of the motor carrier. These shims actually act as bearings on the slide, putting a piece of steel between two aluminum surfaces. There are several threads and archives about this fix on this forum.
It's time consuming, a bit fussy, but does not require any "odd" tools other than patience. You might get lucky and a little silicone spray on the slides will fix the problem

If that's not it then you have to look at the lift mechanism itself. This is a bit harder to get apart but there are at least two dissertations about this in this site. I wrote one up that's in the archives as John G well before we were able to post pictures. There is a more recent one by someone else with photo's. It will require some special tools to repair or a

The third one that I encountered recently is just lubrication of the crank shaft mechanism. It's got several shafts rotating inside each other and eventually something dries out.

My guess though is the shims.

Good luck

[Raffi]

Thanks for the lead. I had no idea what "shims" were in reference to the saw. Any chance I could get you to give me links to the articles you are referring to? I did a search by your name and I don't think I found what you referenced.

[LCHIEN]

most likely needs a thorough cleaning and lube.

Might want to read my FAQ (see sign line below)

[Richard in Smithville]

I'm no expert, but I agree with LCHIEN. I was having the same problem and a good cleaning and lube cleared the problem.

[Black wallnut]

Link to the Articles: http://www.bt3central.com/forumdisplay.php?f=34

BT3100 does not have shims that can be an issue like the BT3K did. Check to make sure the riving knife and anti-kickback pawls if you use them are not preventing free movement. Next look at the elevation screw and lube with wax or a dry graphite spray lube. These are the most likely culprits.

[Raffi]

Link to the Articles: http://www.bt3central.com/forumdisplay.php?f=34

BT3100 does not have shims that can be an issue like the BT3K did. Check to make sure the riving knife and anti-kickback pawls if you use them are not preventing free movement. Next look at the elevation screw and lube with wax or a dry graphite spray lube. These are the most likely culprits.

Ok thanks folks for all the responses, and lchien for the pdf. I guess I have some homework tonight, I'll report back in the am.

[Raffi]

Im going to try to post a few pictures, see how this works.

I had some success last night, lubricating the saw as recommended. I had a bit of difficulty figuring out where to put the lubricant, but once I took off the throat plate, I could see the rails as in the picture with the two arrows. I used a silicone dry lube spray, and things worked better.

Unfortunately it seems as though I have stripped the 'wheel' at the point marked by the photo.

Guess I'll need a new one, I used a vice grip as a temporary solution after removing the wheel, and that worked ok, if in an ugly fashion.

Also, while the lube definitely improved things, it still was fairly resistant to bringing the blade up or down, I'm wondering if there is a better lubricant I can use, I'd appreciate any suggestion on that.

[pelligrini]

I get the best results with just paste wax. I've tried several types of dry lubes, but never silicon. Silicon can be dangerous to use in a WW shop, as it can really interfere with finishing.

Before I lube I make sure everything is clean. It's easier on my 21829 since the saw is on it's side when folded up. I'll wipe down all 3 sides where the motor rides and then wax them. I also make sure the crown gears are really clean as well and the threaded rod. Then I'll wax those. I found that loading up a shop cloth with wax, holding it around the rod and then operating the crank works well.

[LCHIEN]

clean and lube the crown gears and the vertical threaded shaft, too.
I also recommend paste wax rather than silicone spray.

Also, if the handle is broken, it may be hard to find a new one. my research summarized in the FAQ says that a 21829 handle will work.