Busted Belt

[wd4lc]

BT3100

I believe I busted a belt (see photo in link below). I did a lot of 2x4 ripping and some 45 degree beveling. I guess she had had enough.

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/5126/dsc05099y.jpg

At some point I noticed that when the blade would stop spinning, right before it stopped it would rock backwards just a touch. I thought that was odd but things still seemed to be working.

As I was shop vac'ing the floor I noticed the belt below the saw.

This is a first for me. I noticed a good article with links and photos here...

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=31202&highlight=replacing+belt

Unless you know of a better article, I'm going to try to replace it using that as a reference.

A few questions.

Reading that article, it sounds like there are two belts. Is that why my saw is still running (because the other belt is still intact)?

Can I still use the saw with very short cross cuts (to finish a project) until I receive the belt in order to replace the busted belt?

It was mentioned that there was a side panel to look at the motor. I had no idea. I've always thought how much a pain it would be to inspect things from underneath. Is this side panel vs going underneath easier to replace the belt?

I hate paying $7 shipping for a $10 item. Do you all have items that you like to keep on hand for things that frequently need replacing? For instance I'll probably get a couple of each belts as was suggested in the article.

Is sears the best route to go or do you have a better place to get your ryobi replacement parts?

Thanks.

[LCHIEN]

if one broke you should probably buy two and replace both.
And then maybe buy an extra pair. When you have an extra pair murphy's law says you'll never break another.

I suppose it'd be OK to make short, shallow cuts with one belt. About the worst that can happen are break the other belt.

read my FAQ for the things that often break.

Sears is bad for the really cheap items because they have a minimum pprice. I guess not too bad for the belts but it might pay to compare. Also compare the prices within sears for the 22811 parts and the identical part in the 21829 - they're the same saws for the most part but prices have been known to vary greatly.

[cabinetman]

Saws that come with multiple belts are usually advised in the OM to replace belts as a set. Some sell a matched set. For example, the Unisaw uses three belts. I have replaced with unmatched belts, with some squealing evident. As a temp fix, it will run off one belt. If the OM suggests a matched set, one that is designated for the saw, it will likely cost more that motor belts with the same numbers.

.

[JimD]

I melted both belts when an offcut fell into them. I was putting a raised panel effect on some drawer fronts. I bought an extra 2 and they are still in the drawer.

My BT3100 sits on a mobile base so going in under it is not an option (there is a drawer there). I can tilt it up but taking a side panel off is the better way to go. The left side is easy, just a few screws. The right is where the switch is so you have to deal with that but it is still easy.

Be prepared to spend some time at this. I got both replaced but it was a couple hours. I rolled then on like the article you linked. I don't know why he used a ratchet to turn the arbor, however. It spins easy and you can just use your hand to turn it. Maybe a ratchet is easier, it's been a long time since I did this. If you need to move the belt across the pullies you can tap the edge with a wood block and hammer. The pictures do not illustrate the fact that after the side panel comes off you have to also remove the dust chute around the blade. There is a bit of disassembly involved in doing this. The disassembly is no big deal. The hassle is getting a tight, short, belt to go where it belongs.

Jim

[LCHIEN]

i haven't had to replace mine but the advantage of the ratchet (or just a plain old socket+90° non-ratchet handle) is that it gives you leverage on rotating the arbor since one hand will be tied up with trying to walk the belt onto the pulleys.

BTW a 19mm socket is bit bigger than 3/4"; the proper size is 3/4" since thats the arbor nut size. A 19mm will do in a pinch of course - not too much torque involved to damage the nut.

[cork58]

You might want to get a set of shims and a pivot pin as well. The pivot pin I'm writing about is the one on the SMT part# 661811-001. I keep a spare as I wear one out about every year or so. You will not be able to get the Miter fence to cut a perfect cut when the pivot is loose.

Just my $.02

OH MY I forgot the miter fence ends!!!!! Thanks db I'm about ready to put in an order at Roberts Sales and service for my yearly stock order. WOW how did I miss the ends. Don't ask me why either LOL.

[dbhost]

2 SETS of belts, (replace them in matched pairs). It seems as if machines know when you have spares and just decide not to break.

While you are there, grab a couple extra of the plastic ends for the miter fence. Don't ask me why...

Pivot pins are also good spares to keep on hand.

[wd4lc]

Thank you. My order should arrive next week. I got some belts, pivot pin, mitre cap, two front rail endcaps (that popped off awhile back) and a couple of feet (I think the threads stripped out the foot portion in one of mine as it turns freely instead of turning the screw).

dbhost, it took me awhile to figure out your reasoning on the mitre fence plastic ends but I cracked up once it hit me. Surprisingly, I haven't done that YET (though too close on a few occasions). When I first purchased this saw (being my first), I actually wrote a warning note in huge letters and kept it near the blade and fence so that it would stare me in the face each time I set it up.

Last week I ended up taking things apart because I felt I should check things out before ordering parts. Twas easy getting thing off but a bit more frustrating getting it back together having to sort of balance the shims and the black support pieces.
I got to see the belts up close for the first time. I thought it was a bit strange that the belt ripped out vertically. One belt was intact. 2/3rds or more of the second belt was intact as well. You could see wear spots on the intact belts however. Thinner, disturbed type areas.
I tell you this was a good time to clean out the sawdust. That stuff really finds all of the nooks and crannies.

Before dis-assembly I was able to make short crosscuts. I'll have several more to do before the belts arrive.

I also ended up picking up some dry lube wax from Lowes. Raising the blade has been tough for quite awhile. I've been raising it using the wheel (not the handle for fear it will break) with both hands slowly. I've read here that spraying this stuff in there will help loosen things up as well as prevent any dirt or sawdust from sticking to it (because it's dry). I hope this quick fix will do the trick.

Anyway, next week will be belt replacement time. Hopefully things go smoothly!

[pelligrini]

I also ended up picking up some dry lube wax from Lowes. Raising the blade has been tough for quite awhile. I've been raising it using the wheel (not the handle for fear it will break) with both hands slowly. I've read here that spraying this stuff in there will help loosen things up as well as prevent any dirt or sawdust from sticking to it (because it's dry). I hope this quick fix will do the trick.

Anyway, next week will be belt replacement time. Hopefully things go smoothly!

I use paste wax on mine, and every once in a while some dry spray lube. The cool thing about my 21829 & the gravity rise stand is that maintenance is easy. When I fold it up the saw is on it's side making access underneath simple.

Clean the crown gears with a brush & lube all those mating surfaces and any shaft connection. Cleaning & lubing all the sides where the saw slides up & down on the shims makes a big difference. Cleaning & lubing the main height adjustment threaded rod is the biggest thing though. I like holding a shop towel around the rod and then operating the height adjust wheel to clean it, then loading up a towel with wax and doing the same to lube it.

[wd4lc]

I use paste wax on mine, and every once in a while some dry spray lube. The cool thing about my 21829 & the gravity rise stand is that maintenance is easy. When I fold it up the saw is on it's side making access underneath simple.

Clean the crown gears with a brush & lube all those mating surfaces and any shaft connection. Cleaning & lubing all the sides where the saw slides up & down on the shims makes a big difference. Cleaning & lubing the main height adjustment threaded rod is the biggest thing though. I like holding a shop towel around the rod and then operating the height adjust wheel to clean it, then loading up a towel with wax and doing the same to lube it.

Thanks pelligrini. I'll use those tips tomorrow. Got the belt in today so I'll be replacing that and tackling the height adjustment since the saw will be opened up.

Side note. Got to love searsparts charging a $10.99 shipping fee and giving you no online option to obtain an actual tracking number!

[cwsmith]

I had to replace the belts on my BT3100-1 last fall, due to my error when making a new zero clearance plate.

I had ordered them initially from Sears Parts, as their order page stated they had them in stock and at the best price, even with shipping. Problem was that they weren't "In Stock". A week later, there was no indication of "status" whatsoever and even with a phone call, no one could provide me any information. Worse, I did not have the much needed belts or have any idea when I was going to get them. LESSON: You can't depend on Sears stock status and, perhaps more importantly, once you place your order you cannot cancel it!

Because of my need, I ordered from M and D Mower and got the belts within five working days, and finally a week after that, the belts from Sears arrived! I was NOT at all happy with Sears, as the total time took almost a month.

Regarding actual replacement of the belts, it proved to be fairly easy and it took me about 45 minutes to an hour. I did not remove the rails or flip the saw upside down on a bench... instead I removed the clearance plate and blade (of course), and then just worked from a kneeling position looking into the left-side of the saw. (You might want a padded cushion or knee-guards.) I removed the left-side panel, then the dust panel from the blade shroud. You can then see the bracket assembly, bearings, shims, etc.

I stuffed a piece of foam up under the right-side panel, wedging it between that panel and the outer end of the motor, to keep the motor from swinging on the lift screw. (That appeared to me to be the primary reason for being instructed to place the saw upside down on the bench... but perhaps not.)

After that, just follow the instructions provided here and elsewhere. About the only exception to those instructions, was out of my concern for possibly mixing up the "shims". I found that with the mounting bolts removed from the outer bearing housing, there was enough play to be able to slide a piece of blue masking tape in between the shims and the mating area on the frame casting (the slide area). Doing that with both the left and right side, the assembly can be removed with these shims held in position.

(Note that these shims are like "angle" (L) shapes and that there are also a set of flat shims on the back side too. The latter was something that I missed seeing in the parts assembly drawing; but with care, thier position can also be easily identified for re-positioning on assembly.

The new belts were a bit of a "bear" to get on, but I managed without too much finger strain or expansion of my vocabulary. After positioning the belts, the reassembly simply takes a bit of care and patience to ensure all the components align without binding anything. With everything apart, it was also a good time to remove any caked-up dust (I think I cut too much pine!) and to dry-lube the slide surfaces.

Overall, a good experience even though it was a bit of a test of one's patience.

CWS

[wd4lc]

CWSmith, neat trick with the tape and the shims. I didn't get a chance to try it as I had already switched the belts earlier. Putting that frame part back with the shims did seem to be the trickiest (especially the silver shims at the back for me). I actually had better luck today getting it back on versus the first time I tried it a few days ago. It went a bit quicker.

I hate to jinx everything but all seemed to go fairly smoothly. I actually rolled the belts off (did not cut them). I did as instructed by jmayko and Ed on rolling them back on. I'm hoping that the sides of the belts are suppose to meet each other flush with no gap. That is how I left them. I also made sure there was a small gap between the back belt and that area right behind it.

I was hoping that my belt problem was the cause of the slight wobble of my blade as it comes to a stop. No such luck as it still wobbles slightly. Still though, I imagine or hope the power and the cuts will be improved slightly.

Thanks pelligrini. There was sawdust coated in several of the main threaded rod's grooves. I did your cleaning trick. I actually used a paper towel and dug my nail into a groove while moving it up and down. I also blew out some of the sawdust using the reverse air blower function on the dryvac. What I had purchased was a Teflon dry lube and so I used that. Fortunately it seems to have worked really well. Instead of using two hands on the wheel, I can use two fingers on the wheel handle again.

It felt good getting in there, cleaning everything out and seeing how things operated. I should have done the latter when I first got the saw and should have been doing the former several times since then.

....oh side note. I didn't realize the feet were basically hex bolts sitting inside of a rubber piece with a hex molding of sorts. I actually bought a couple for $4. The nuts on a couple of mine were rusted out and the feet could not be raised or lowered. I checked them out today and those bolts pop out (with some wrestling). Basically you can go to the hardware store and drop $.50 if you need to replace rusted out bolts/washers/nuts on those feet. Just plop the hex bolt heads into those rubber feet.

[pelligrini]

I was hoping that my belt problem was the cause of the slight wobble of my blade as it comes to a stop. No such luck as it still wobbles slightly. Still though, I imagine or hope the power and the cuts will be improved slightly.

Thanks pelligrini. There was sawdust coated in several of the main threaded rod's grooves. I did your cleaning trick. I actually used a paper towel and dug my nail into a groove while moving it up and down. I also blew out some of the sawdust using the reverse air blower function on the dryvac. What I had purchased was a Teflon dry lube and so I used that. Fortunately it seems to have worked really well. Instead of using two hands on the wheel, I can use two fingers on the wheel handle again.

Cool, glad you're up running again. On the blade wobble, make sure all the washers, arbor & mating blade areas are really clean. Check for any burs too. Tighten down the blade, but you don't need a death grip on it. Just snug enough to keep it in place. If it still wobbles, you might try another blade in there. Yours might be out of balance or bent slightly.


Having the lift mechanism moving smoothly sure is a nice feeliing. When I first got my saw I was pretty lax about maintenance and dust collection. It about had stopped lifting from all the accumulated mess. After a good cleaning it must have felt like new. I'll clean those areas a lot more often, especially if I notice any resistance.

[cwsmith]

The "blade wobble" can be a real irritation and I'd check, not only the cleanliness of the arbor and mounting washers, but also the flatness of the blade itself.

I haven't had that particular problem on my BT, but it was driving me nuts on my RAS (I use the Ridgid 40T combination on by BT, my RAS, and my CMS.)

I was having an absolute terrible problem with trying to align my RAS and since I had never had that kind of problem before, I just figured it was old and that something was out-of-whack since it's long-term storage and perhaps my inability to reassemble it after so many years. I never gave any thought that it might be the new blade!

Only after several "lets give it one more try" alignment procedures, did I awaken to the problem. That was discovered only after I abandoned the use of the new blade during the procedure... opting finally to using a 1970's full-kerf, veneer blade. That old blade had practically no set and minimal gullet, appearing almost to be just a flat steel disc. Alignment at several points on the disc became straightforward and everthing looked "right-on".... but when I went back to the new Ridgid blade, the crosscuts looked nasty again. Duh, on my part... the new blade was warped. Thankfully, Home Depot gave me a replacement and the RAS is now much happier, as am I.

So, check that blade,

CWS