Cleaning and refurbishing a neglected BT3K

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  • yzracer14
    Forum Newbie
    • Dec 2010
    • 6

    Cleaning and refurbishing a neglected BT3K

    I picked up a BT3K for super cheap because it needs shim replacement (seller didnt know that, he just said it doesn't raise anymore), and frankly, it looks like crap. I think he kept this out in the elements because the entire table top, miter sled top (sled base is fine), and the accessory table is covered in corrosion.

    I've searched for the best way to clean table saws and most of what I found said to use mineral spirits and a scotchbrite but that was for cast iron tables. With the this table top being aluminum, the best thing I found while searching was to use an Automotive etching wheel cleaner specifically for cast aluminum. I'm leaning towards the wheel cleaner but I was hoping that some of the more experienced BT3x00 users could lend their insights to either idea or a different one I'm not currently aware of.

    Besides this cleaning, the shim replacements, belt replacement, and alignment; is there anything else I should be looking to do with this particular saw?
  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9209
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    #2
    I would have to look at the bottle, but if the tops are corroded, I would think the clear coat is gone by now... So you could use some Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish, and a buffer to clean that up. HOWEVER, and the reason I saw I would have to read the bottle, you might find that the Mothers MAY have silicone in it which would transfer to the wood. I believe you could strip THAT off using rubbing alcohol, then wax the top with some wax intended for wood floors like Johnson's Paste Wax.
    Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

    Comment

    • LCHIEN
      Internet Fact Checker
      • Dec 2002
      • 20914
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #3
      you don't say whether you have a 3000 or a 3100, both tops are aluminum base they are a little different in the way they are finished.
      On the BT3000 the top is aluminum anodized and then the top of the ribs are machined flat leaving raw aluminum exposed.
      The BT3100 is powder coated and I can't recall if the ribs are machined off before or after the powder coat. [P.S. as Chuck said the BT3100 was powder coated after machining flat, so there's no exposed raw aluminum].

      aluminum corrosion is usually crusty white stuff (one of the oxides of aluminum) - and pitting. So is the pitting and white crusties on the tops of the ribs or on the whole surface including between the ribs?

      Close-up pictures???
      Last edited by LCHIEN; 12-17-2010, 01:16 AM.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment

      • cwsmith
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2005
        • 2737
        • NY Southern Tier, USA.
        • BT3100-1

        #4
        My BT3100-1 appears to be powder coated after any machining.

        I hate to see any machine so badly neglected, but especially so for something like the BT. It's my first (and maybe only) table saw and after more than five years I am very appreciative of it's design and performance... even after having to replace the belts (my fault).

        Good luck on your restoration!

        CWS
        Think it Through Before You Do!

        Comment

        • yzracer14
          Forum Newbie
          • Dec 2010
          • 6

          #5
          I have a 3000. From what I can see so far, not much of the area between the ribs has been damaged all that much because the small area I tested, the dirt between the ribs just wiped right off with a rag. So its mainly the top of the ribs but suprisingly I didnt see much pitting on the small area I tested.

          I'll get to work on it all weekend so I'll snap some pics for you guys.

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Internet Fact Checker
            • Dec 2002
            • 20914
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            Reclaiming your BT3000 top

            Without a picture, I'll assume the area between the ribs is protected by anodizing. The top of the ribs may be corroded because the top is typically machined and raw aluminum. You may be able to take a flat sanding block to the top of the ribs and clean up the oxzidation and not damage the between ribs areas. Try a small area first. try starting with 100 grit paper on the block, clean up with air nozzle and brush, if you need to use a damp cloth to wipe between the ribs. I would think the crusty white oxization would sand right off pretty easily.

            Once down to bare, shiny aluminum on the rib tops again, wax the saw periodically with Johnson's paste wax (important don't use car waxes which have silicone, just use pure wax like JPW, Minwax, or Butchers wax), let it dry for ten minutes then polish with a rag to remove the excess wax, this will keep the saw from marking your wood, lets the wood slide smoothly, and keep it from oxidizing again.
            Last edited by LCHIEN; 12-17-2010, 11:32 AM.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • yzracer14
              Forum Newbie
              • Dec 2010
              • 6

              #7
              This is what the entire top looked like before cleaning, sanding and polishing. I wanted to give a good before and after comparison for you guys.



              Here's the miter sled now. The only thing left is polishing with some mothers and protecting with the wax.



              Pics were taken from an iPhone so I apologize if they suck. I can retake if needed.

              Comment

              • Norm in Fujino
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2002
                • 534
                • Fujino-machi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan.
                • Ryobi BT-3000

                #8
                Looks like you're doing a nice job on the restoration. Hope the shims and belts (or whatever else) won't be too much of a chore. --and if it's a BT3000 (not 3100), be sure to add some kind of shim support as well, since the shims will very likely go bad again if you don't.

                ==========
                ". . . and only the stump, or fishy part of him remained."
                Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township

                Comment

                • JR
                  The Full Monte
                  • Feb 2004
                  • 5633
                  • Eugene, OR
                  • BT3000

                  #9
                  Originally posted by yzracer14
                  This is what the entire top looked like before cleaning, sanding and polishing. I wanted to give a good before and after comparison for you guys.
                  Nice! So howdja do it?

                  JR
                  JR

                  Comment

                  • yzracer14
                    Forum Newbie
                    • Dec 2010
                    • 6

                    #10
                    I started by using Eagle one MAG wheel cleaner with a no-scratch scoth-brite followed by an oxidation remover I found in the boating supply section at my local store that you apply after rinsing the part while it's still wet. I forgot what the stuff is called but I'll post it later. Anyways, this stuff made some of the staining in the pitting and scratches a bit lighter.

                    After letting it dry, I sanded it down with a block and started with 220, and went to 320, then 500, then 800 cloth-backed. I didn't start with 100 because I didn't want to remove a whole lot of material and my goal isn't to make the table top scratch and pit-free. I just wanted to remove some of the staining and polish it up a bit. I didn't go past 800 because a mirror finish isn't worth it. The first stock I cut on this saw will ruin any mirror finish on it and let's be honest; it's a tool, not a show item right?

                    That's really it. I did that to the miter sled in about 20 - 30 minutes. There's still a little pitting and deeper scratches but as long as it's level and slick, I'm good with it. I polished a test area with some aluminum polish but it didn't do much so I might skip that and just head straight for the wax.

                    The shims in this BT3000 are actually in really good condition and haven't been damaged after 10 years of use and no maintenance. But I'm going to convert it to the BT3100 shims anyways. After a good cleaning and painting the rusted sheet metal, it'll be as good as new.

                    I'll keep posting pictures for you guys.

                    Comment

                    • LCHIEN
                      Internet Fact Checker
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 20914
                      • Katy, TX, USA.
                      • BT3000 vintage 1999

                      #11
                      according to a poll i ran a couple of years ago, about 67% of BT3000 owners here never had shim problems. At that time if you had a BT3000 it would have to be 6 to 16 years old.
                      I think its a lube issue, if you keep it clean and lubed then you won't have a problem.
                      Maybe you should wax the ways (which is all i've ever done) and go about the other refurbing and see how she goes. Fixing a problem which statistically is in your favor not to happen seems a waste of time unless you are just a pessimist.
                      Last edited by LCHIEN; 12-22-2010, 07:23 PM.
                      Loring in Katy, TX USA
                      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                      Comment

                      • yzracer14
                        Forum Newbie
                        • Dec 2010
                        • 6

                        #12
                        Ah, I didn't know about that poll. I think I'll take your advice and save the money then. I thought it was one of those, "it'll happen sooner or later" type of issues.

                        Tonight I'll be going through it mechanically and ordering any needed parts. It should be up and running in about two weeks.

                        Comment

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