Ripping 2x2s

[Skeezix]

I have a lot of 2x2s 8 feet long. I need 1x2s. I thought I'd ask - is there someplace in this forum that would describe how to do this?

[pelligrini]

Not sure if it's been discussed before, probably something similar though for sure.

I'd use a decent low tooth count ripping blade, set the fence at a little less than 3/4", and use a featherboard to keep it snug to the fence. It would be too tight a clearance to use my guard, but the splitter would be left in and I would use my pair of grrippers to move the material (a push shoe could be used instead). Infeed and outfeed support would be in use too.

You're not going to get 3/4" boards out of your 2x2s as you have to take into consideration the thickness of your blade kerf.

[dbhost]

Yeah right here. Set your fence for 3/4", use a featherboard to hold the stock against the fence, set your blade height, and start cutting. Push through using a good quality push stick, and be VERY careful when doing so...

1x2 nominal is 3/4x1-1/2". You can get 1 1x2 out of a 2x2. The kerf waste on the other side would make the other side 1/16" to 1/8" too narrow depending on if you use a thin kerf or full kerf blade...

[pelligrini]

Yea, I should have said you wouldn't get two 3/4" strips.

If they didn't have to be exactly 3/4" I'd just split it in half. I've done that before. If I needed to do a lot, like a dozen or so 2x2s. I'd probably sell them and go buy the 1x's.

I'd probably bolt on my long rip fence too.

[Larryl]

+1 on all the suggestions and I might recommend a featherboard also be used to hold the stock down on the table as well as against the fence. Stock that thin and light can ride up the back side of the blade as it exits the cut in an instant and become airborne.

[dbhost]

+1 on all the suggestions and I might recommend a featherboard also be used to hold the stock down on the table as well as against the fence. Stock that thin and light can ride up the back side of the blade as it exits the cut in an instant and become airborne.

Good point!

[LCHIEN]

1. featherboard to keep the stock against the rip fence.
1A. Outfeed table
2. make a sacrificial push shoe to push the end of the 2x2 all the way past the blade. e.g. a 8" 2x4 with a hangover piece on the end to push the end through. The 2x4 will and the tail piece get scored each pass.
3. if you have a lot, get a helper on the outfeed side to takeawy the cut pieces once you've pushed them past the blade. Having to clear the cut pieces is the most hazardous operation casuing slow down and shortcuts and reaching over the blade.

[cabinetman]

I would check all the stock first to see if they are all the same size before you plan your fence measurement. Besides all the comments on featherboards on the side and top, an outfeed support of any kind would help. I'm not in favor of a helper, as they can get you in trouble. All they have to do is pull a little skew one way or another.

I would use a 24T or a 32T ripping blade and set it higher than the stock. The higher it's set the more it helps to cut down on the stock, and the cutting angle is less than if it's just above the stock. Cutting like that there is less blade contact with the wood.

.

[jussi]

Make sure the featherboard is before/behind the blade. If you don't already have a rip blade I suggest Freud LU87R010

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010.../dp/B0000225UH

[Skeezix]

Thank you all for the comments. I think I'll be better off (i.e. safer) to just buy the stock I need.