Newbie with a 999 Q's

[mrpedersen]

Hello everyone,

It's been a while since I joined - not sure how long, but never had write privileges until yesterday/today. I've certainly done a lot of reading tho. I did read last nite that others had problems a while ago. Anyways, its one great site.

I have a Craftsman 274130, (Ryobi 3100 I've been told) and after all my reading, it is. Not used very much in 4 years, maybe less than a 100 hrs total. Mostly for house maintenance, minor projects and cobwebs.

I'm currently doing a cleaning and maintenance program on it. So a few questions.

1. Can I move the SMT to the right side for proper and safe use, the reason being is that I'm a recent right aka and the base is definitely a problem in my reach and balance.?

I'd be working from a stool or with my prosthetic on. I have thought of building a slider jig which might be better. Most of my future projects will be small, hobby type. Nothing that would require the big sheets.

2. My elevation crank is sticky tight, I have cleaned the interior and waxed the threads and spindle gears. Still tight. I did read a thread recently where the shims were replaced. Is there anyway to tell if they need replacing without taking it all apart?

Glenn.

[LCHIEN]

i have a document with around 100 frequently asked questions and answers on the BT3x series saws.

if you send me your email address using the PM (private mail) system here on BT3 central i will send it to you.

The SMT can be mounted on the right, most seem to use it on the left though. The nice thing about the BT3s is you can do what you want.

You should wax the ways - this is the vertical track that the motor housing rides up and down on, The shims are brass and the edges are visible and attached to the moving part of the ways. Lower the blade all the way, wax the top, then raise the blade and wax the lower part. This should all be visible with the throat plate and the blade removed,

From the FAQ (see the real FAQ for proper formatting):
I'm having trouble with raising the blade...
I’m hearing a clicking noise when I raise the blade
What is this shim problem I’ve heard so much about?
Don’t force it! The BT3 elevation is usually a smooth-running mechanism, if you have to force it,
stop and think – it needs cleaning or it is jammed; if you continue you will break the handwheel.
In order from least to worst possible problem:
The clicking noise is normal. This is the spring as it rotates on the keeper pin. Behind the
adjustment handle. You can bend in the ends of the wire with needle nose pliers so it will not
catch on the edge of the spring if it bothers you.
It’s very frequently the case that in reattaching the riving knife/splitter assembly, the two bolts
have enough play that the riving knife leans backwards. When the blade is lowered, at some
point the back of the riving knife touches the edge of the opening and drags, making it hard to
lower the blade. Usually no damage done except to pride.
Your saw needs cleaning and lubrication; internally the dust has gotten to the point where the
gears and elevation mechanism are jammed. Also lubricate the elevation screw shaft at the point
where it engages the motor assembly and at the pinion gears. A good dry lube is generally
recommended to prevent it from attracting and holding sawdust. Dust collection, the more
aggressive the better, will help keep dust out the mechanisms in the future.
Occasionally you will have the dreaded shim problem (a BT3000/Sears 22811 quirk, this has
been fixed in BT3100s). The shims are thin metal plates that ride between the motor holder and
the saw frame when traveling vertically. They are normally held in place with the motor housing
and ride on machined ways but can be deformed and fall out when the lubrication is not adequate.
If you find some small metal plate below your saw body then the shim(s) have likely fallen out
and will need to be replaced as they are the anti-wear mechanism. Vertical movement will
become difficult. The shims are inexpensive but the labor can be a few hours. Keep your saw
lubricated in this area with a dry lubricant. Johnson’s paste wax is good for this. A February,
2005 survey on BT3Central indicated that 70% of BT3000 owners never had the problem but that
30% had some problem with shims. Replacement BT3000 shims: bent shims are part #969600-
001
and the rear flat shims part #969599-001.
The BT3100 does not have the shim problem because the shims, though used, have a mechanical
retainer. You can convert the BT3000 to the BT3100 shim system. The conversion is simple if
you will have the saw apart to replace the belts and the cost is negligible
Parts List:
#969600001 Flat shim [BT3000/BT3100}$.90 ea, 2 needed
#0181010314 Spring shim {BT3100} $.86 ea, 2 needed
#0181010110 Guide holder {BT3100} $15.07 ea, 1 needed
#662329001 Drive belt {BT3000/BT3100} $13.49 ea, 2 needed
The BT3 FAQ Rev 4.9 Jul 08, 2009
Copyright 2009 by Loring Chien Page 24 of 51
The parts are available from:
www.ordertree.com
www.billious.com
Sometimes the threaded elevation rod engages a threaded hole in the motor assembly and the
thread is worn/stripped. You will need to enlarge the hole and thread a new helicoil (a stainless
steel threaded insert) into the hole to repair the thread. See these elevation rebuild instructions by
JohnG.
[posted by “Knuckles” Brian] I went the HeliCoil route. Thanks to Ed's instructions in the
Article section, it wasn't too difficult. It's not something I'd want to do every day. I
searched about a dozen auto parts, hardware, and machine shops in this area, and I had no
luck finding the 9/16"-12 Helicoil (or clone) kit. I ended up ordering one from a website
called Cartools.com. It cost something like $50, shipping included. Wouldn't you know,
though, after I bought it I stopped in a local discount tool place that I hadn't noticed
previously; they had a clone (Permacoil) kit for $15.
The next problem was finding a 19/32" drill bit to drill out the lug that the threaded rod
goes through. [ed. Note – some helicoil kits include this drill bit]…
Probably the most tedious (and potentially disastrous) step of the repair was drilling out
the hole prior to tapping it. I figured that I only had one shot to drill the hole on the same
axis, and I wouldn't know how well I did until "the reckoning" of trying to put it together.
I used a 1/2" drill bit to help get the bit centered, and find the axis. I didn't measure the
angle, but it wasn't exactly 90º to the table. I had to shim it with some laminated air and a
few mosquito wings.
Once I got the hole drilled and tapped, the insert went in nice and easy, and I epoxied it in
place. I made sure to keep screwing the insert tool in and out so that any epoxy that
squeezed into the inside threads was "threaded" in.
I learned something during assembly that's important to the instructions. Install the
threaded rod and bevel gears before tightening the screws that attach the motor housing
and the guide holder. …
So, long story longer. . . . I was successful at installing the Helicoil insert. I've noticed
that there is considerably less "play" in the mechanism, even less than when it was brand
new. It's firmer and requires more effort to turn the handle, but not "won't raise/lower
right" firm. It still feels like the Play-Skool handle is going to snap. Even though Ryobi
Tech Support knows about the issue with the "soft" threads, I'm still going to send a note
expressing my opinion that they should "toughen" that part up.
Factoid: the blade raising mechanism has a 12 TPI thread – it takes 12 turns to raise the blade one
inch, or .0833” per crank turn. On my saw you can crank it exactly 12 turns one way then exactly
12 turns back and it will come back to about +/-.005” of where you started.

[Ed62]

Welcome aboard. Loring is the man with the answers. Be sure to get the FAQ he mentions.

Ed

[dbhost]

This is the first I have heard of that model saw. Would love to see some pictures of it. I am kind of wondering how it differs from the 21829...

[pelligrini]

This is the first I have heard of that model saw. Would love to see some pictures of it. I am kind of wondering how it differs from the 21829...

I believe the 274130 is the Sears Canada number for the US Craftsman 22811

[JR]

Welcome aboard!

I wouldn't think you'd have problems with the shims on that saw. It was the BT3000 that had the problems. They were redeisigned for the BT3100.

I'd put some wax on the rails the locker bracket rides on. Lower the blade all the way, apply wax. Raise the blade all the way, apply wax. I think you'll be happy with the result.

HTH,
JR

[leehljp]

Welcome . . . and I will add another item to check: Make sure the splitter is not rubbing tightly against the back of the throat plate. That does happen sometimes.

Apologies to Loring - I just noticed that you mentioned that in you post.

[mrpedersen]

Hello everyone, just lost my message trying to quote. I'll learn.

Yes, I have contact Loring for his document, looking forward to the reading and info.

Also watched the video on kickback, seen another recently as well. I did experience one back in May. Was ripping a small piece off a 3/8" small plywood, didn't realize that there was a slight vertical bow in it. It was a 15 deg cut using the left side of the fence. Didn't get it far enough past the end and whamO. Left bicep was bruised for several weeks. Was told that I should have been cutting on the right side since my blade angles that way. ALSO - had the guard off - don't know why but I did.

Not sure where the pics are, did an upload but doesn't show a link here. However they are attached, hope they arrive.
Just seen them, all ok.
Glenn

[mrpedersen]

Yes, the splitter is riding on the back frame. I'll loosen it up and slide the holder forward, i know theres very little space. Gees those teeth are sharp and long.

I have ordered the Shark Guard system from Lee, should be here next week. And a ZCTP..

[LCHIEN]

Welcome aboard!

I wouldn't think you'd have problems with the shims on that saw. It was the BT3000 that had the problems. They were redeisigned for the BT3100.

I'd put some wax on the rails the locker bracket rides on. Lower the blade all the way, apply wax. Raise the blade all the way, apply wax. I think you'll be happy with the result.

HTH,
JR

the 27413 I think is the canadian sears model 22811 and is more closely related to the 3000 than the 3100, so the shims thing would apply.

The part number and the model number are related like this:
The model number is the 27413 or the 22811 or the 28129
the part number which you use to look up parts on teh sears parts site is the manufacturer number DOT model number + a zero.

So the part numbers for those saws is 315.274130 or 315.228110 or 315.281290

The number the OP listed is 274130 which is somewhere between the model and part number.

[pelligrini]

Yes, the splitter is riding on the back frame. I'll loosen it up and slide the holder forward, i know theres very little space. Gees those teeth are sharp and long.

I have ordered the Shark Guard system from Lee, should be here next week. And a ZCTP..

You're really going to be happy with your shark, I think it's one of the best things out there for a BT (or clone).

[mrpedersen]

Thank you gentlemen, It does have the shims, did some digging and found the manual in a box, in the dark, in the garage - if you know what I mean. Also open the back up again, fired up the compressor and blew out dust that was really hidden. Now i'll attack the gears and such.

And, yes the RK was pressed back against the frame, will let you know the result.

Once again Loring - Did receive your document. Thanks.

[LCHIEN]

Both the 3000 and 3100 have shims, but the 3100 has an improved design for shim retention. when they fail the shims stick to the surface they are supposed to slide on and then fall off the surface they are suppsed to be attached to. when that happens, the fall out and the saw does not operate smoothly afterwards.

My personal opinion is that keeping the ways or the locker bracket as its called lubricated with wax keeps the 3000 shims from sticking and then falling out.

MrPederson, you're welcome, I think you'll find that the FAQ is a good read for specific questions but is also informative when just browsed.

[mrpedersen]

Thanks everyone,

All back together, riving knife adjusted, elevation working firm - no sticky, etc. Do the setup and first cuts tomorrow.

Later, Glenn.