Throat plate

[Dave Z]

Hi, noobie here. Someone gave me a BT3000 recently. In looking around the web for info I discovered this site and have lurked for a couple weeks. I've already learned a lot here.

The height adjustment was hard to turn, so I followed the instructions found here and fixed that. Someone mentioned "dry film lubricant (DFL)," which I had never heard of, so I got some and used it on the shims and mating surfaces and the rip fence and rails. Miracle stuff. The power switch was sticking, it wouldn't always turn off, so I took that apart, cleaned it and gave it a shot of the DFL and it works great too.

I had to order several of the "slide B" units for the sliding miter assembly, so as soon as those come in I'll be able to test that out.

The saw came with the router and jigsaw kit (and a nice Ryobi router) but it seems to be missing the throat plate. How essential is that and are they available? I found the "slide B" pieces at ereplacementparts.com, but they did not show the accessory kit. Any tips?

Also, what do y'all think about the router fence peices that mount to the rip fence? Seems to me a single piece would be easiser and more accurate than the two separate pieces, which seem to be a little hard to get lined up just right. Or am I just doing something wrong?

Thanks,
Dave

[JR]

Welcome to the forum, Dave!

Is the "throat plate" you refer to the circular one that goes in the accessory table? If so, it is not essential to most routing operations, but you generally want the opening to be sized as closely to the bit as possible.

It sounds like you've got the router fence thingys just about figured out. They're better than nothing, but not by much. Honestly, I'd view the whole setup, including the router mounted in the accessory table, as temporary. You'll eventually want a proper router table insert and specialized fence. Having said that, I went for LONG time with the setup you have.

If you mount a jig saw in the accessory table, stand well back. That's a really hinky setup. Start planning now for a bandsaw and/or scroll saw.

HTH,
JR

[pelligrini]

Welcome!

The inserts for the accessory table aren't exactly essential, but it is best to have the closest matching opening for your current bit. I don't know too much more on replacements as I have an orange set from my 21829 and the red ryobi set with an accessory kit purchase.

I think the OEM router fence is a POS. I would say that it is the biggest design deficiency of the saw. I had big problems getting and keeping mine aligned. Making a simple router fence based on an old Wood magazine design was one of the better things I did for my router extension.

[jdon]

You mentioned in passing that the on/off switch would not turn off reliably (before you cleaned it). There was a recall on BT3000 switches- there have been posts here about it. Call Ryobi and they'll send you a new switch free.

[RAFlorida]

Welcome to the best Forum you will ever find!

And also Dave congrats for getting a hold of a really great hobby table saw. It has it's up and downs, but overall, it is one terrific TS.
BTW, check with Loring and click on his sig to aquire a great info packet. His handle is LCHIEN on this forum.
Also as others have mentioned, the throat plate for the router isn't a must unless your doing some short pieces, that's when you SHOULD have the right size tplate in place. And those short pieces can be a misshap just a waiting to happen, (I know most of my post don't come out just right so bear with me).

[charliex]

Welcome Dave. I may have a set of the RT inserts somewhere. I'll PM you later today if I find them.

Chas

[mineengineer]

Not for sure......

.......if it was a good idea to lube the rip fence and rails.....I think a little friction there is a good thing.

[pelligrini]

hehe, nope it probably wasn't a good idea for the rails. I'll wax my fence on occaision, but not the rails. When I used to adjust my rails from side to side I did rub a little wax in the slot for the T-Nuts. They sure did move a lot easier.

[LCHIEN]

probably should remove the wax from the rails with some mineral spirits.
the FAQ discusses this.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Dave,
I didn't use the OEM router fence very long before changing over to a one-piece fence. MUCH easier to set. You can even attach it to the hardware from the OEM kit. I made mine to attach directly to the rip fence.

[Black wallnut]

Welcome to the club. Paint the "red line" or you'll really become a member of a different club.

[Pappy]

Your questions have adressed so I wall just say.....

Welcome to the Asylum, Dave!