BT3100 died

[jwd12]

My BT3100 just completed a 60" rip in a 2x4, when it died. It will not start. There is power at the receptacle and the blade spins freely. It was not laboring during the cut. Is there a thermal overload on the saw. If there is, I can't find it. Where should I start? Any help would be appreciated?

[Black wallnut]

No thermal overload on saw. Could be a number of things. Bad switch, brushes, smoke released, or even your breaker tripped.

[chopnhack]

OP states that there is power at the recep. so next in line would be to check with a multimeter for power at and after switch.

[dbhost]

Possibly popped the belts? Is the motor running / no blade spin?

Brushes maybe finally lost contact?
Let the magic smoke out?

[mpc]

Get a small household lamp (or a power drill or... just about anything you can safely plug in) and stick that into the BT's socket, then flip the BT's ON switch. If the light works, the wall outlet, saw's power cord, saw's power switch, and the saw's outlet are working... meaning the motor itself has issues.

No lamp light, then the bug is in the saw switch, outlet, or power cord. I'd use an ohmmeter to trace it:
1: unplug the cord from the wall, unplug the saw motor's cord from the saw's outlet.
2: clip one ohmmeter lead to either prong of the main power cord.
3: flip the saw's power switch ON
4: stick the other ohmmeter lead into the saw's outlet... look for continuity. Just pick one of the outlet "slots" No continuity? Try the other "slot." Still no continuity? Then you'll have to open up the saw's power switch box assembly to probe the wires from the main power cord... though it's likely the power switch itself is the bug. If you DID get continuity, move the first ohmmeter lead to the other prong on the main power cord, then probe the other "slot" in the saw's outlet. Should have continuity there too.

If you have a beefy extension cord, you can directly test the motor:
1: unplug the saw's main power cord and set it aside; unplug the stubby motor power cord from the saw's outlet.
2: Instead, plug the motor's stubby cord directly into your extension cord. Don't have the other end of the extension cord plugged into the wall socket yet.
3: make sure the blade (if installed) is tight, nothing binding, etc. I.e., the same safety checks you'd make before turning the saw ON to make any cut.
4: Once the blade is confirmed safe/ready, plug the extension cord into the wall socket. The motor should run if it's okay. Do NOT use the saw this way though - it's dangerous NOT having an OFF switch near your hands while using the saw.

Likely a busted power switch and/or the wire "clips" that connect the power cord to the switch rattled loose. They can be re-crimped with pliers and re-installed... once you open up the saw body and open up the main power switch.

Motor: depending on which motor is in your saw, you might see a small plastic cover held in by two screws on the end opposite the blade. Undo those two screws and pop the cover off... you'll see the "brush" assemblies. Eyeball them, comparing one to the other - they should look the same. You'll also see a wire going to each one... see if the wires look healthy.

mpc

[capncarl]

Sounds like you have been bit by the cheap rocker switch like most every one on this site. This is the first thing to check. There are a number of replacements and work arounds on this switch at this site. Don't tear anything else up troubleshooting before you eleminate this potential problem.

capncarl

[jwd12]

OP states that there is power at the recep. so next in line would be to check with a multimeter for power at and after switch.

I don't have a multimeter BUT always willing to buy a new tool. Is there an alternative way to check? I replaced the switch about two years ago when the 3100 would not shut off. There was no indication of any trouble, I just shut the saw off and then it would not power up. I have "assigned" duties for a while this am. Will get back upon completion

[chopnhack]

I don't have a multimeter BUT always willing to buy a new tool. Is there an alternative way to check? I replaced the switch about two years ago when the 3100 would not shut off. There was no indication of any trouble, I just shut the saw off and then it would not power up. I have "assigned" duties for a while this am. Will get back upon completion

LOL, nice try on scoring new tools, reread MPC's post - he has it nailed to a T!

[jwd12]

It is a beautiful day here guys, the sun is shining, the temp is in the mid 70's, the assigner of duties has been placated (admittedly a temporary condition) and the dead saw can be revived. It was the switch. Thanks for all the help. I think you'll saved me enough money by not needing to buy a multimeter coupled with the the 20% discount on Rigid tools at HD to reward myself with a thickness planner. THANKS AGAIN.

[BobSch]

Multimeters don't have to be expensive. HF often has them on sale for a couple of bucks.