BT3100 - 2nd switch failed

[wd4lc]

My 1st switch failed awhile back (maybe a year or two ago if that long). I believe I actually found this site by searching a seach engine for failed switches on the BT3100. I saw the thread that explained the problem and there was a nice guy who offered a free switch replacement on behalf of Ryobi. I got the replacement and instructions to install it. Things worked great.

Well today this 2nd switch has failed. It will not shut off just like the 1st switch.

Has anyone had this problem and are you able to get another free replacement switch for your table saw?

I'm in the middle of a project. Would there be a problem with plugging the table saw into a plug strip that has an on and off switch and using it that way?

If this is a continued and common problem for all of these Ryobi switches and replacements, do you have a recommendation for an entirely new switch that won't break the bank? I'll re-search the threads on switches in the meantime.

Thank you.

[LCHIEN]

don't know why the second switch failed; ryobi was replacing them with switches with a stronger spring i think that pulled the switch apart faster and harder so it would not have time to weld together the contacts when they were opened. this was the early switches on the BT3100s.

I assume the guy you got it from was tom clinkscales, Ryobi/TTI customer service manager for a long time?

I have not heard the replacement switches failed and i've been reading posts on this forum for a long time.

[JR]

Too bad Loring didn't address your question about a remote switch. He's way better at that stuff than me.

Anyway, a remote switch would work, but you want heavy duty materials. 12 guage wire, switch and strip rated for 15 amps.

JR

[RAFlorida]

Yes, Loring can maybe tell

you about a remote switch of some sort that will operate for a motor. Your power strip switch will soon weld together in the closed position. I've not heard of the replacement switches failing, but all manmade stuff can do what it wants and be headaches for the operator. There will be some that may guide you with a replacement for your saw. By the way the BT3x is a great saw and I think the switch on the early modles were the only problems. Check back later in the day and I'm sure some one will give you some info.
edit: the reason your strip switch will not work good for long is easy to understand. Motors give counter emf, which when a switch is turned off, it produces a long arc at the switch. Motor switches have to have fast and longer gaps between contacts. hope this may help you.

[Bill in Buena Park]

After repairing my original switch twice, I replaced my switch on the saw with the new style switch, and added an "auxiliary switch box" between the saw switch and the power cord, using 15-amp household switch and outlet in connected single-gang boxes. I consider this a safety feature, since I must first turn on the saw switch which is unpowered until I turn on the ASB, which closes the power circuit. When I am done for the day, I turn off both switches, so I don't get any accidental power-ups from bumping the ASB. I believe this arrangement prevents any arcing in the saw switch, because the contacts are already closed when the ASB is used to supply power to the circuit.

I mounted the ASB to the underside of the front rail, where it happens to be easier for me to reach. Not pretty, but functional for me. I'd be interested to hear how the OP resolves this problem.

[LCHIEN]

Actually Bill, the arcing occurs upon opening the switch, any switch with an inductive (motor) load.
The inductance of the motor tries to resist changes in current and arcs as the contacts try to pull apart. Arcing welds the contact together and evetually they don't pull apart sucessfully resulting in a stuck on switch.

A properly designed switch will have a strong spring to pull them apart quickly and not let them dwell too long in close proximity and thus breaks the arc quickly.
Better plating and contact materials and bigger contacts can help, too.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Arcing welds the contact together and evetually they don't pull apart sucessfully resulting in a stuck on switch.

Loring, thanks for the clarification; I assumed arcing happened during both the closing and opening of the switch. I know the springs in my first switch were not up to the task, and I believe the replacement switch is better, but didn't want to chance another instance of being "stuck on". I think I have resolved this by not using the saw switch to turn off the saw, instead using my ASB, and only open the saw switch once there is no load on it.

[jabe]

Bill U have the sears model saw, I would call for a free replacement. I know they don't want any lawsuits due to this safety hazard. I have the sears saw too but my switch looks different from yours. My switch have a yellow safety key that can be removed and its a big paddle type switch. They must have changed it my saw is just 3yrs old, how old is your saw? The switch you have on looks like the replacement they sent me for my BT3000 and It still works well.

[capncarl]

After repairing my switch several times I replaced it with a 110 volt heavy duty 20 amp light switch. I had to cut out the saw cabinet some to allow the face of the switch to stick out enough to allow the light switch face plate to fit properly.

A side note... this type switch must really be a piece of crap as the identical switch on my delta disk/belt sander and on my delta grinder, and on my milling machine have failed within the last 6 months. They are not as easy to install a larger light switch, bummer.

capncarl

[eezlock]

BT3100- 2nd switch failed

If your second switch failed....it is time for a better, heavier duty switch.
I replaced one on my saw shortly after buying the saw brand new...the original
one had not failed at that point, but I never really liked the cheap feel it had
from the start.I went to a local Delta/DeWalt dealer and ordered one that fits
their heavier duty saws, wired it up and I like it a LOT BETTER than the original one. The original switch was used for a short time as the power switch for my
router table....it did not take long for it to fail, so off it came, and a new one
replaced it! This is one of the weaker points to this saw that should have been
addressed from the outset in my opinion.

[Tom Slick]

I did the same as eezlock: Installed a heavy duty aftermarket switch with a paddle on it. I also mounted it on the left side where it is easier to shut off in a hurry.

[woodturner]

using 15-amp household switch and outlet

Switches should be rated for the motor HP to be used in a motor circuit. What is the HP rating on the switch you used and the motor being switched? My suspicion is that the switch is not safe to use with that motor.

[Stytooner]

Couldn't a guy use a simple solid state relay to take the load off the switch?
I use several of them in my cnc machines, both AC and DC operated. This is what lets my computer run my flood coolant, router and spindles.
I have picked up US made SSR's on Ebay for about $8.

[dlthrift]

I have not had any problems yet. But I have been looking a switch sold buy Rockler.com item number 20915. Hope this helps.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Switches should be rated for the motor HP to be used in a motor circuit. What is the HP rating on the switch you used and the motor being switched? My suspicion is that the switch is not safe to use with that motor.

WT,
Its a 15amp motor (same as the BT3100). I'd have to ask Loring what the HP is. The switch contacts certainly seem more robust than the contacts in my original saw switch at least, but could move up to a 20amp switch if there's an amperage overload concern...