My BT3100 is slowing down!

[dbhost]

I have noticed recently that my BT3100 is really slowing down when cutting, even when cutting ply. The blade(s) are cleaned frequently, and there is no buildup. I suspect there is something I am missing doing for the motor. But what?

[natausch]

Too much lube as in on the belts?

[RayintheUK]

Carbon brushes in the motor OK? Armature clean?

Ray

[Cochese]

My only advice would be to check the circuit that the saw is on. I have to run mine on an extension cord, and know that I can't run the vacuum at the same time.

[dbhost]

The lower end is always nice and clean (belly pan, 4" dust port, DC pulling on that, and the blade shroud). And the circuit it is on has had the HF DC running as well as the saw with no issues until the last month or so.

I am thinking maybe the brushes. How do I check that?

[radhak]

You might want to check blade alignment, and if there's any play in the blade.

Recently I found one of the bolts that secured the wheels of my bandsaw had loosened, giving the blade something more than a simple 'flex' !

It took me a while to figure out why it wouldn't cut as smoothly !

[Turaj]

... I am thinking maybe the brushes. How do I check that?

On each side of the motor there is a plug ( a bit smaller than a Quarter). With a small screw driver (or a coin) unscrew them until they pop out (there is a spring pushing the brush). take them out, remove the saw dust (both brush and the motor) and check the brush. There should be a mark showing the minimum required (about 1/4"?). If all OK, just push them back in and screw the plugs back.

My guess is there might be too much dust preventing the brush contacting the armature. HTH

[dbhost]

You might want to check blade alignment, and if there's any play in the blade.

Recently I found one of the bolts that secured the wheels of my bandsaw had loosened, giving the blade something more than a simple 'flex' !

It took me a while to figure out why it wouldn't cut as smoothly !

Hmmm. Interesting thought, I just cleaned the blade less than a week ago, and it was nice and tight when I reinstalled it.

[Uncle Cracker]

Could be either the blade or the brushes. Turaj has told you how to check the brushes, so if that proves out OK, look at the alignment. What sometimes happens is that the blade gets out of alignment to the miter slots (if you have them), the fence, or the SMT, so the trailing edge of the blade rubs against the kerf in the workpiece. Run a few test cuts, feeding the work slowly, and paying attention to when the slow-down occurs. If it comes as the trailing edge first contacts the work, then alignment is the problem. You can also look at the kerf, and if it is wider than it should be, or rough on one side, then this is another indication that your blade is not passing cleanly through the work.

[dbhost]

It may be fence alignment rather than the blade come to think of it... I may need to tinker with that some... I seem to recall that I occasionally seem to bind at the back of the fence...

I think I need to touch base with Loring about the FAQ again... I don't know as I can find the FAQ any more...

[big tim]

Be sure to put the brushes back in the same holder they came out of and in the same orientation, if you don't, they'll most likely arc like crazy until they wear in again.

Tim

[dbhost]

Well, I bought my saw used, and haven't put brushes in. Can I get a set at M and D?

[Uncle Cracker]

Well, I bought my saw used, and haven't put brushes in. Can I get a set at M and D?

Yes. Here is the link. (The same brush fits the 15-amp motors in both the BT3000 and BT3100. Note that these are sold by the each, but should be replaced in pairs.

[LCHIEN]

Before you condemn the motor,

check the voltage at the saw (use a Kill-a-watt meter) when running. Dropping to 108 V or something when you start up the saw might happen briefly but you are looking for something below 90V probably if its real slow.
Low voltage can cause a univ. motor to run slow. If the voltage is low then you have a resisty contact in your electrical power disrtibution somewhere - loose contact in a junction box, bad plug, bad breaker, bad cord, bad switch etc. Prolonged running would make this bad contact warm or even hot to the touch.

Or try a 1500-1800 W hair dryer on the same socket. That pulls 12-15 amps and will run slow if its low voltage, too.

you probably have a dedicated circuit so you would not normally notice other items on the circuit running funny.

[dbhost]

Before you condemn the motor,

check the voltage at the saw (use a Kill-a-watt meter) when running. Dropping to 108 V or something when you start up the saw might happen briefly but you are looking for something below 90V probably if its real slow.
Low voltage can cause a univ. motor to run slow. If the voltage is low then you have a resisty contact in your electrical power disrtibution somewhere - loose contact in a junction box, bad plug, bad breaker, bad cord, bad switch etc. Prolonged running would make this bad contact warm or even hot to the touch.

Or try a 1500-1800 W hair dryer on the same socket. That pulls 12-15 amps and will run slow if its low voltage, too.

you probably have a dedicated circuit so you would not normally notice other items on the circuit running funny.

No sub panel This is the circuit I use for the tools except the DC (which rides on the 20 amp circuit for the washing machine). No other machines slow down on this circuit. (Planer, Jointer etc...) I believe the motor in the AP1301 is a 15 amp universal motor as well...

It IS possible that I have a fence alignment issue, but I want to check using the SMT, I have been doing mostly rip cuts, and if it doesn't bog down on crosscuts, I know that fence is most likely my problem...