My Mobile Base

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  • os1kne
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2003
    • 901
    • Atlanta, GA
    • BT3100

    #16
    Very nice job!
    Bill

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    • pelligrini
      Veteran Member
      • Apr 2007
      • 4217
      • Fort Worth, TX
      • Craftsman 21829

      #17
      That Base looks cool. Don't worry about the burn marks, it's just shop furniture. (that's what I try to tell myself too). The SMT pocket is a neat feature. You'll probably be vacuuming it out at times though. I assume you don't have any tall drops or thresholds to go over. I tried mounting some casters similarly on a base I was doing for my jointer. My bright idea worked pretty well inside the shop until I tried moving it over the 1 1/2" drop at my shed doors.

      Are you planning on extending the rails to the right too? You called it a dust shelf, I'm assuming you don't have dust collection yet. Your design should be easily adaptable to provide collection for the saw and future router cabinet.

      I've never really had any problems with getting the SMT out of alignment. I take mine on and off the saw fairly often. It used to get stowed safely in some stud space in my shed, but a bunch of cutoffs have taken up residence there. I still try to keep it out of the way. It can take some abuse, but I wouldn't want to push it.
      Erik

      Comment

      • yamato72
        Forum Newbie
        • Apr 2009
        • 57
        • Lansing, MI

        #18
        Cool - the forum is working again!

        As I mentioned, once I got the basic table saw base to the point where I could mount the saw, I moved on and started on a base for my compound miter saw. Same goal: move it in and out of storage without any hassle. My current setup was pathetic - clamped to a board on top of a couple sawhorses. It was too low and didn't have a lot of support for cutting long pieces of material ( I cut a lot of 2X and also a lot of casing and moulding with it).

        I used my experiences from building the torsion box base for the table saw, and was able to streamline the construction of the second base. I debated doing a torsion box at all, but the goal was to keep the construction and dimensions the same, so I did it anyway. Here are a couple pics of the build-up:



        This time I only cut dadoes into the underside of the top. When I built the TS base, I found that after fastening the ribs to the underside of the top, it was just too difficult trying to get the bottom skin to align with the ribs.



        The long ribs extended the full length of the base this time, and I boxed the ends to make it look neater.



        For the bottom skin, I pinned it in place, then used a flush trim bit on my router to cut it to the final shape. It worked great!

        Comment

        • yamato72
          Forum Newbie
          • Apr 2009
          • 57
          • Lansing, MI

          #19
          A couple more pics of the Miter Saw base. I don't have a measured drawing for this one, but basically it will be 3 cabinets atop the base. The center cabinet will hold the miter saw, and there will be a cabinet on either side, flush with the saw table. The cabinets will match the height of the router cabinet that will go atop the TS base so that both saws and work surfaces will be the same height.

          As before, I built this base until I could mount the saw, and I'll finish the construction later (I also ran out of 3/4" MDF). The cabinets are built in place on top of the base and attached with pocket hole screws. I thought this was important for the miter saw, in case I ever have to replace the saw and the base turns out to be a different size.

          This base is deeper than it needs to be, but it will have a ton of storage and also provide some more work surface too.



          Comment

          • yamato72
            Forum Newbie
            • Apr 2009
            • 57
            • Lansing, MI

            #20
            Back to the Table Saw base - more build-up pics

            I made some more progress on the table saw base yesterday, here are some pics from the build-up. Constructing the top and router cabinet "backwards" like this posed some challenges, however I wanted to be able to complete the saw table and then build the router cabinet under it in order to get the dimensions perfect. There were some advantages to doing it this way though, as you'll see.

            Face frame top rails (to bolt to the saw rails) cut to length and slots cut for height adjustment (these are maple 1X4s)



            Installed on saw:





            Extension rails cut to length and installed. Doing it this way, I did not need to worry about hardware to connect the saw rails. The maple keeps the rails aligned, and I had just enough T-nuts between the extension rail kit and the leftovers from the old accessory kit.



            Fortunately I had just enough room on the other side of the saw to mount the accessory table and route the rabbets in the rails. The rabbets are to approximate the profile of the saw table, and allow for the rip fence to fit.









            Last edited by yamato72; 06-27-2010, 10:14 AM.

            Comment

            • chopnhack
              Veteran Member
              • Oct 2006
              • 3779
              • Florida
              • Ryobi BT3100

              #21
              Very cool Yamato, I like the progress. I never realized the attachment of the rails would require that rabbet. Thanks for the heads up!
              I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

              Comment

              • yamato72
                Forum Newbie
                • Apr 2009
                • 57
                • Lansing, MI

                #22
                Saw Top Build-up

                I used 2X4s to temporarily hold up the rails while I formed the rest of the box that the saw table is wrapped in. The top is 2 sheets of MDF glued together and cut to fit inside the box. I clamped cleats underneath to true the mdf surface to the maple box and attached with pocket screws. Laminate will go on the top.











                Note that the top itself is still adjustable, so that I can move it over to make clearance to glue up and trim the laminate, then adjust it to align with the BT table:







                I'm currently building up the router table underneath and will post my progress next.

                Comment

                • yamato72
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Apr 2009
                  • 57
                  • Lansing, MI

                  #23
                  Originally posted by chopnhack
                  Very cool Yamato, I like the progress. I never realized the attachment of the rails would require that rabbet. Thanks for the heads up!
                  Thanks!

                  The back rail requires the rabbet for the rip fence, the front does not. I rabbeted the front to better match the dimension of the BT table.

                  You could also use the spacers that come with the extension kit (Ray did that in his write-up) but there are only two. And I wanted the back rail to form the face frame of the router cabinet, and I wanted the TS cabinet and router cabinet to precisely align, hence the rabbet in the back rail.

                  I got the idea for the rabbet from Rod Kirby's extension table write-up.
                  Last edited by yamato72; 06-27-2010, 09:46 AM. Reason: misspellings

                  Comment

                  • yamato72
                    Forum Newbie
                    • Apr 2009
                    • 57
                    • Lansing, MI

                    #24
                    This is where the new table top ended up aligning with the BT table:



                    Here is the basic router cabinet completed, I'm now working on closing in the back of the saw cabinet.



                    Comment

                    • Norm in Fujino
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 534
                      • Fujino-machi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan.
                      • Ryobi BT-3000

                      #25
                      Very well thought-out design. I wish I had time to design another cabinet for my car port.
                      ==========
                      ". . . and only the stump, or fishy part of him remained."
                      Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township

                      Comment

                      • yamato72
                        Forum Newbie
                        • Apr 2009
                        • 57
                        • Lansing, MI

                        #26
                        Thanks, it's coming along really well.

                        Here is a shot of the back of the TS cabinet finished off. The opening under the saw has slots so that I can snap in an access panel for cleanout and possibly to install a dust collection port:



                        You can also see from the picture that the top of the saw cabinet sticks out quite a bit. This is doubled up with two pieces of mdf, and forms a "bumper" for an outfeed table. The idea is to attach a bumper at the same height on the outfeed table, so as not to interfere with the back rail on the saw.

                        Next steps are to install the router insert and track, wrap some of the MDF ends in maple strips, and then start on the doors and drawers. I'm contemplating a clear door for the router cabinet, not sure yet. I'm also still deciding on if I want to put a baffle for dust collection in the router cabinet.

                        Comment

                        • yamato72
                          Forum Newbie
                          • Apr 2009
                          • 57
                          • Lansing, MI

                          #27
                          More progress with the router cabinet.

                          This is laying out the router insert plate. This is a Rousseau phenolic plate.



                          The instructions say to adhere the straightedges to the surface with double-stick tape. I found a use for my second rip fence (the only use so far, as it works very poorly with my router fence clamped to it).





                          The double-stick tape worked really well, even when I relocated the straightedges several times (you route through for the access hole first, then move the staightedges out .5" in every direction and rabbet the edge)



                          Cutting into the work surface was totally nerve-wracking, but I'm really happy with the results. Phew!

                          Next step is routing a dado for the T-track.
                          Last edited by yamato72; 07-10-2010, 10:44 PM. Reason: misspellings

                          Comment

                          • chopnhack
                            Veteran Member
                            • Oct 2006
                            • 3779
                            • Florida
                            • Ryobi BT3100

                            #28
                            Good job Yamato, that came out really nice.
                            I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

                            Comment

                            • Norm in Fujino
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2002
                              • 534
                              • Fujino-machi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan.
                              • Ryobi BT-3000

                              #29
                              よく出来た!

                              Well done!
                              ==========
                              ". . . and only the stump, or fishy part of him remained."
                              Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township

                              Comment

                              • yamato72
                                Forum Newbie
                                • Apr 2009
                                • 57
                                • Lansing, MI

                                #30
                                Thanks guys!

                                Here is the router table completed. Routing the dado for the t-track was again nerve-wracking, but I clamped a second staightedge in place as a safety to keep from wandering out too far. Now I can put my router to use jointing the edges of the face frames, and finish the cabinets on the miter saw table. Then on to the doors and drawers; I have most of the hardware now.

                                By the way, I cut the rails down, and cut the bevel in the t-track using my CMS. Worked like a charm with the standard blade that came with it.

                                Last edited by yamato72; 07-12-2010, 08:33 AM. Reason: clarity

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