Just bought the Craftsman 21829 Last Night

[Duranged2001]

I got in on the currently circulating deal on the Sears saw.

I hope no one will hold it against me.

I am a complete beginner. I have a question about setting up the front and rear rails. Is there a particular position these rails should be set? I know that for ripping there is that 2" setup step. Beyond that, is there any other position these rails should be in for other operations, or is it unimportant?

I watched the setup videos on YouTube for the Ryobi, but I am just having trouble understanding the different index marks on the front rail.

I'm sure this is the first of many questions I will have. I hope this forum is full of patient folks.

Thanks,
David

[sparkeyjames]

I have the SMT (sliding miter table) all the way to the left with a dual miter slot table just to it's right. The rails are pulled all the way to the right with just a small amount of slop space for the SMT. The nice part about this saw is that you can remove the SMT. Then slide the rails to the left if need be. Quit a lot of folks set theirs up so the zero mark on the scale on the front rail is at the saw blade teeth right edge. It is the method set forth in the manual. This type of thing however can cause problems if you go by the scale and have saw blades with varying kerf sizes. Always measure before cutting from the blade tooth edge to the rip fence (measure twice cut once).

Also send user LCHIEN your email address and he will send you a rather lengthy PDF file on setting up of and the care and feeding of your new saw.

[pelligrini]

Congratulations, you should really be happy with the deal you got.

It's not all that important on the rail position. You just don't want them set too far to the left or you can't fold it up.

I pretty much keep mine at 10". That 10" reading is really 0 for my fence on the right of the blade. I can't remember if I switched sides on my fence indicator. Doing it this way puts my rails about as far left as they can go and still be able to fold the saw up. I might be able to get another inch or so further, but 10" is easier to work with when reading the fence position.

I also put on a set of half rail extensions on the right so I don't really need to move the rails anymore for right side capacity.

[Knottscott]

Congrats David. I can't advise on the setup as well as these folks can, but I can say that blade alignment and blade selection have a huge impact on the final performance of any saw. The stock blade on the 21829 might be above average for a stock blade, but note that stock blades are notoriously poor, and your saw will perform much better with a good aftermarket blade (or three).

Tips on picking a saw blade

[cwsmith]

Hi Dave,

I hope you enjoy your new saw as much as I have my BT3100, which I've had about four years now.

There may be some consideration regarding the rail position and being able to fold up your saw. Mine doesn't fold, so I obviously cannot speak to that issue.

Without that concern, my BT works best for me with the rails setup in a position fairly close to center. The main thing for me is to accurately reflect a scale reading with the fence. I also mostly use my BT for ripping, leaving the crosscuts to my RAS. So, I routinely use the following steps:

1. To facilitate my rail/fence set up, I first remove both the SMT and the accessory tables. Make sure you are unplugged, and then tilt the blade guard back so the blade is exposed and in a fairly high position.

2. I then use a 3" wide "set-up" block, which I position next to the right side of the blade. Basically this block is then lightly "sandwiched" between the blade and the fence.

3. I then adjust the front rail so that the scale properly indicates 3" on the fence window and with that confirmed, I lock the front rail tabs.

4. At that point, I mount the accessory table to the extreme right position on the front rail and then slide the rear rail so that too is equally positioned with the accessory table.

5. I then double check the fence position and scale against my "set-up" block and adjust as necessary, making sure both front and rear rails are locked when done.

Once done, I can move my accessory table to any position desired and I position my SMT as needed.

While it seems like a number of steps, using a "setup" block works very well for me and I don't hesitate to reposition the rails or SMT and accessory table as needed, to properly support whatever material I'm working with. The "setup" block, always allows me to quickly return to my routine position where the fence and scale alignment is quickly re-established.

(The width of the "set-up" block can be any width you desire, BTW.)

I am by no means as experienced as many of the other forum members, but this procedure works for me.

I hope this helps,

CWS

[Duranged2001]

Thank you...

...for everyone's advice. I appreciate the clear explanations, and I will hopefully put them to good use soon. I'm excited about having a table saw. Project possibilities have expanded greatly for me. Up to now, I've only had a Porter Cable compound miter saw on my work bench. Now I can make some larger cuts

Thanks again.
David

[pezboy]

I got in on the currently circulating deal on the Sears saw.

I hope no one will hold it against me.

I am a complete beginner. I have a question about setting up the front and rear rails. Is there a particular position these rails should be set? I know that for ripping there is that 2" setup step. Beyond that, is there any other position these rails should be in for other operations, or is it unimportant?

I watched the setup videos on YouTube for the Ryobi, but I am just having trouble understanding the different index marks on the front rail.

I'm sure this is the first of many questions I will have. I hope this forum is full of patient folks.

Thanks,
David

I am in the EXACT same boat as duranged. Just got the 21829 and will need to adjust it once I put it together. Luckily, I stumbled across this forum and I registered right away! Thanks to all who have contributed to the OP. Lots of great advice. Once I get set up, I just have to start looking for good deals on add-ons!

[Duranged2001]

Pezboy, being unfamiliar with very basic table saw terminology and components, the instructions were a little challenging for me to follow. I found myself having to read and re-read certain sections of the setup. I was able to get it to stand up with out any random parts falling off, though. It looks like a well built machine to me.

It's certainly not what we used in shop class in 1982, but I'm sure it's capable of MUCH more than I'll ever be able to accomplish.

Good luck.

[pelligrini]

The only thing that I really don't like about the saw is the poor excuse of a router fence that is included. I used it for a short while, then I made a simple shop made fence. All the hardware for it is useful though.

Some of the first things you guys ought to look into are some ZCTPs (zero clearance throat plates) and maybe a Shark Guard. The OEM guard is OK, but the Shark makes things a whole lot easier. Might check out T-nuts.com for some hardware accessories, his line of nuts are much better then the stamped OEM ones. There are a couple links at the top of the main forum page. Be sure to use them especially when going to T-nuts.

[bigstick509]

[LCHIEN]

...

Also send user LCHIEN your email address and he will send you a rather lengthy PDF file on setting up of and the care and feeding of your new saw.

its not a tutorial or setup document. What it is, is about 100 frequently asked question/topics about how to solve problems or issues with their BT3. how do i do this, where do i get parts, is the so-and-so accessory any good, why can't i do this with the (item) on the saw, etc. whats the diff between (models of the BT3), will the xxx from a BT3100 fit a BT3000 etc.
90% of the questions posed by new users can be found in this document/ Its long, nearly a megabyte, but key words can be searched and the questions all listed at the beginnin are hyperlinked to the answers.
Its good for browsing or for answering single questions. There's also a large jargon and acronym section, again key word searchable.
These are related to care and feeding that are not in the manual.

If you need the document, PM (private mail me) with your email address

[Cochese]

Just ordered mine on Monday, waiting on the email so that I can come pick it up. Fantastic deal, purchased it in large part due to the huge following it's predecessors have.

Glad to be here.

[Duranged2001]

I'm enjoying getting familiar with mine. I made a featherboard last night from the instructions in the manual. Tested just fine. I find that when I piddle around with a new tool, I learn stuff

I hope to be able to modify my router mount to receive my Porter Cable router. I have read that I will need to drill and countersink holes to accomodate the different hole pattern. In my case, it will be measure 5 times, drill once.

[Duranged2001]

The deal just gets sweeter...

Saw on Slickdeals (and later here) that the sale price had dropped another $50. I was able to request a price match and received the credit. Down to $236.42 +tax my final cost. What an incredible deal.

[jabe]

Welcome lots of good advice here. Just heed all the safety rules & practices whenever using your TS. If you don't know ask B4 using the TS, someone will answer your question/s here. Again WELCOME!!!!