Just bought the Craftsman 21829 Last Night

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  • dkerfoot
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2004
    • 1094
    • Holland, Michigan
    • Craftsman 21829

    #16
    Originally posted by Duranged2001
    Down to $236.42 +tax my final cost.
    Holy...! Wow. That is an unbelievable price. IMO, the folding stand is worth well over $100 alone. Whatever price you paid, you all got a good deal. I have had the 21829 for over two years now and I love it. I have very limited shop space and the fold & stow feature is a lifesaver.

    One of the cool features is the easily movable rails. Don't be afraid to slide em back and forth as needed. This makes the 21829 a very large saw (capability wise). One of my first projects on the saw involved cross-cutting 7' sections of bamboo flooring. It was easy thanks to the movable rails.

    Regarding router use, I suggest throwing away or burning the two pieces of wood they provide as a fence. Instead, attach a strip of plywood or MDF to the two fence brackets and you have an instant sacrificial fence. Just slowly push it through whatever router bit you are using and you have a perfect zero clearance fence. Once you change bits, it won't be perfect anymore, but it will be quite good through several bits and it just takes a couple minutes to replace.

    Be careful with the SMT. Mine came perfectly square from the factory but it is a bit of a bugger to get back into square once knocked out. Not hard, just slow and fiddly. It is better to avoid having to mess with it until you are accustomed to the saw and know what you are doing.

    I did buy a Shark Guard and like it very much, but the stock guard is perfectly usable. Always have it in place when making any through cut. Always. Don't buy into the lie that "nobody uses the guard". Several surveys have show that most of us use it whenever it is physically possible to do so. You should too.

    .
    Doug Kerfoot
    "Sacrificial fence? Aren't they all?"

    Smaller, Smarter Hardware Keyloggers
    "BT310" coupon code = 10% for forum members
    KeyLlama.com

    Comment

    • Cochese
      Veteran Member
      • Jun 2010
      • 1988

      #17
      You have no idea how impatient I am trying to wait to pick this up.
      I have a little blog about my shop

      Comment

      • Bill in Buena Park
        Veteran Member
        • Nov 2007
        • 1867
        • Buena Park, CA
        • CM 21829

        #18
        You'll love the saw - just remember its a precision table saw, not a lumber mill.

        My trick with the front rails:

        - Set the rip fence headstock on the front rail to where its leftmost edge (not the plastic index window) aligns to zero, then lock it down
        - Loosen and move both rails simultaneously to where the rip fence is against the right side of the saw blade
        - Lock the rails, and remove the plastic index window from the fence headstock

        This will leave just enough rail to the left of the blade so that you can (when needed) move mount the auxiliary table to the left of the main table. This comes in handy when you want to do ripping operations from the left side of the blade. You can then set the fence using the front rail but indexed off the left edge of the fence headstock, avoiding the hassle of having to re-calibrate the rails.

        Otherwise, with the fence/rails set to zero using the index window (and no rail extensions on the left side), you only have enough room to put the SMT to the left of the main table, and when you want to do left-sided ripping, you have to remove the SMT and you'll have no room for the aux table under the fence.
        Bill in Buena Park

        Comment

        • Cochese
          Veteran Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 1988

          #19
          What do I need to check for accuracy on this thing? I read about a dial indicator, etc, but I don't have any specialty tools or indicators like that.
          I have a little blog about my shop

          Comment

          • idex
            Handtools only
            • May 2010
            • 1

            #20
            Picked mine up on Friday. Keep the tips coming.

            Comment

            • dkerfoot
              Veteran Member
              • Mar 2004
              • 1094
              • Holland, Michigan
              • Craftsman 21829

              #21
              Originally posted by CocheseUGA
              What do I need to check for accuracy on this thing? I read about a dial indicator, etc, but I don't have any specialty tools or indicators like that.
              My experience was that both the fence and the SMT were accurate out of the box. The easiest way to check the SMT is to start with a square board, cut one side of it, rotate it so the side you just cut is now against the SMT fence. Cut again and continue until you have cut all four sides. The corners should now all be square.

              If you need more detail, you will find many posts about this and adjusting the fence in the archives.

              The place to start though is to PM LCHIEN and ask nicely for the FAQ.

              I also strongly encourage you to read the Craftsman documents included with the saw. In some cases, they were easier for me to understand and follow than some of the posts I read in the archives when I got my 21829

              .
              Doug Kerfoot
              "Sacrificial fence? Aren't they all?"

              Smaller, Smarter Hardware Keyloggers
              "BT310" coupon code = 10% for forum members
              KeyLlama.com

              Comment

              • turtlewood
                Forum Newbie
                • Dec 2007
                • 9

                #22
                Originally posted by pelligrini
                .

                Some of the first things you guys ought to look into are some ZCTPs (zero clearance throat plates) and maybe a Shark Guard.
                Just got mine put together, what an amazing saw for the price.

                Where can I buy some ZCTPs (zero clearance throat plates)?

                Thanks,
                -Turtlewood

                Comment

                • wireless

                  #23
                  I'm a newbie and am very luck to run across this forum. So far I've discovered lots of useful information. Like several others here, just got a new 21829, back last Wednesday (6-2-10) from Sears. I found it on their web site listed for I believe $329.00, I picked it up the next day at Sears to save shipping. So far I have managed to take it out of the box and push it against the garage wall. I haven't had time to plug it in yet. I plan on setting it up and trying it out this comming weekend, so I have been reading alot of postson this forum. I've already read about the blade that comes with the saw, and have gotten two replacement blades, one for cross cutting, and one for ripping. I ordered a dado base plate from amazon for less than $10.00 including shipping, in the owners manual the part number was listed under asserories, I googled the part number and found it on amazon. I currently have an adjustable dado saw blade, but from what I've read, won't be using it due to its poor performance in cutting. I did notice that in the owners manual, by the parts listing there is a notice that states not to use an 8 inch dado blade, but only use a 6 inch, and I think no more than 13/16 thickness. Does anyone know why I shouldn't use an 8 inch dado blade. I don't want to screw up the saw, and sure don't want to get screwed up my self by using it. This is a great forum. Thanks everyone for the good information.

                  Comment

                  • wireless

                    #24
                    I'm a newbie and am very luck to run across this forum. So far I've discovered lots of useful information. Like several others here, just got a new 21829, back last Wednesday (6-2-10) from Sears. I found it on their web site listed for I believe $329.00, I picked it up the next day at Sears to save shipping. So far I have managed to take it out of the box and push it against the garage wall. I haven't had time to plug it in yet. I plan on setting it up and trying it out this comming weekend, so I have been reading alot of postson this forum. I've already read about the blade that comes with the saw, and have gotten two replacement blades, one for cross cutting, and one for ripping. I ordered a dado base plate from amazon for less than $10.00 including shipping, in the owners manual the part number was listed under asserories, I googled the part number and found it on amazon. I currently have an adjustable dado saw blade, but from what I've read, won't be using it due to its poor performance in cutting. I did notice that in the owners manual, by the parts listing there is a notice that states not to use an 8 inch dado blade, but only use a 6 inch, and I think no more than 13/16 thickness. Does anyone know why I shouldn't use an 8 inch dado blade. I don't want to screw up the saw, and sure don't want to get screwed up my self by using it. This is a great forum. Thanks everyone for the good information.

                    Comment

                    • pelligrini
                      Veteran Member
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 4217
                      • Fort Worth, TX
                      • Craftsman 21829

                      #25
                      I believe the FAQ has some sources in it. If you don't have it yet PM Loring (LChien). It's a good source of info.

                      I got my first ones off of ebay. You should be able to find a pair for around $15. The Ryobi plates flex a little bit, but having a ZCTP in hand makes visualizing fabrication of your own easier. I've since made my own out of some maple flooring strips.

                      The Leeway workshop (home of the Shark Guard) offers a new line of ZCTPs he makes. http://www.leestyron.com/zctp.php I haven't used one yet, I've still got a few wood ones left from the last run I did. His appear to be much better than the Ryobi ones. There is also a pretty good tutorial on how to make your own in there too.
                      Erik

                      Comment

                      • NC_WoodCrafter
                        Handtools only
                        • Jul 2010
                        • 3
                        • Charlotte, NC
                        • Sears 21829

                        #26
                        I also have the Sears 21829. I got a good deal on an 8" dado set before I noticed the saw should only use a 6".

                        After reading many of the comments on here about this, I checked my saw to find out what the problem was. I found that the heavy aluminum plate that holds the arbor assembly was cast with rounded recesses, i.e. never filed / ground to square.

                        All I did was use a file to clean up the casting and insure the recess was squared up. The amount of metal that had to be removed is very little and could explain why some don't have this problem - tolerances on different molds when manufacturing.

                        On a separate note, I use a cheap harbor freight 1" dial indicator to keep the SMT aligned. I tweak it until I am only a few thousands off, which gives me nice cuts. It is easier for my old eyes to see the indicator swing on that dial than reading those fine marks on a square.

                        Hope this helps.
                        Craftsman 21829 owner

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