BT3 Box Joint Jig?

[JoeyGee]

Has anyone made a box joint jig for their BT3? I have a DMST, but no miter gauge. I know I could make or buy a runner, but has anyone made a jig using the SMT? I guess I can't see how to set it up against a constant reference point.

[JR]

I've done it, but it wasn't pretty. A box-joint jig should be a pretty tight setup and I found the long reach from the SMT accross the MST to the blade offered too much slop. A sled made to run in the MST might be a good alternative. I'm currenlty using a miter guage in the MST and it seems to be working ok.

In any case you should think about how to adjust the jig. If you use the SMT you could mount it to the SMT fence using Jeff's nuts (t-nuts.com). Make the screw holes a little large to allow for adjustment.

After you break it down you'll have to realign in order to set it up again. I'm pretty sure you're going to find that's the case no matter what configuration you decide on.

JR

[Black wallnut]

Lee (Stytooner) has done so years ago. It was called the Lynn's Jig and he at one time had info on his website.

I've always just used my router table along with my jig.

[John Fox]

Pretty good box joint jig

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFp9dElA5Qc

[leehljp]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFp9dElA5Qc

Looks somewhat like Stytooners. I like the video - thanks! I really need to make me one, but I won't have time to use it until this time next year at the earliest.

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Here is the link to Lynn's jig on Lee's site ...

http://www.leestyron.com/lynnjig.php

Although you can use a standard saw blade (flat top grind is best), I use a dado blade.

Cut some test box joints with the dado blade. Turn the knob on the jig in full-turn multiples. Check the fit. Remove chippers and/or add shims to make the joints perfect. Cut and test the fit again. Record the set up for future projects.

I really like this jig.

- Lonnie

[dkerfoot]

Suwat Phruksawan has a very simple one that should work for you:

http://woodworking.phruksawan.com/boxJointJig/index.html

[LCHIEN]

Suwat Phruksawan has a very simple one that should work for you:

http://woodworking.phruksawan.com/bo...Jig/index.html

took a quick look at that one. Suwat forgot an important note: the drill bit must be the same width as the saw blade or the slot will grow or shrink as he moves on down.

[pelligrini]

I use my SMT with the Shopsmith boxjoint jig attached to a second miter fence I have. Alignment with the shopsmith jig is pretty easy. When I put the miter attached to the jig on the SMT all I really need to do is make sure the opening in the jig and miter fence will move clear of the blades. The jig is adjustable as to where the reference pins are and the width of them.

I prefer to use my Freud box joint set. It will cut 1/4" or 3/8" widths very cleanly and easily. I knocked out a few storage boxes for my stains & finishes this weekend.

[dkerfoot]

took a quick look at that one. Suwat forgot an important note: the drill bit must be the same width as the saw blade or the slot will grow or shrink as he moves on down.

Hi Loring,

Not sure I follow. With his instructions, everything is indexed off the one side of the drill bit. I haven't used it, but in my own head the geometry works just fine. That I know all too well is no guarantee of anything, but Workbench Mag purchased the plan, which inclines me to believe it should work as advertised. But perhaps we are all missing something.

[capncarl]

I built a Lynns jig variation for the bt. First I asked myself just how large of a piece of material would I ever need, not wanting to build a small apartment size jig. I think that I reduced the size to hold a 12 inch wide board, maybe 6 inches thick. That way there is not so much mass swinging on the smt. It sets over and clamps to the smt fence and also bolts through the long slot in the smt. There is a little deflection, so it needs to be operated from the same hand hold all the time to keep from varying the deflection that there is. One of the main thing that I did do was to put a blade guard on the back of the jig to cover the blade when the jig is passed over it. It works well and is a jig that I will keep and use in the shop.

capncarl

[LCHIEN]

Hi Loring,

Not sure I follow. With his instructions, everything is indexed off the one side of the drill bit. I haven't used it, but in my own head the geometry works just fine. That I know all too well is no guarantee of anything, but Workbench Mag purchased the plan, which inclines me to believe it should work as advertised. But perhaps we are all missing something.

Maybe I missed something but I clearly see 2 consecutive pictures (actually in reverse order in the article) where both sides of the bit are used to define the width and the text says to place the first cut slot over the bit all the way to one side of the bit and then make the cut then slide the wood all the way to the opposite side of the bit.
So both the picture and the text indicate to me to use both sides of the bit.

Or look at it this way: if the bit was infinitesimally thin, then the 2nd slot would be the first slot width + 1 kerf.
If the bit was the same size as the slot, then the 2nd slot would be one kerf wide.
Only if the bit was one kerf wide , would the 2nd slot be the same width as the first.

Here's the part of the article:
---------------

To cut the second notch, I place the first notch over the drill bit and push it somewhat tightly against one side of the notch before I start the cut. Then I slid the piece to the opposite side and make another cut. At this point I'd have defined both side of the second notch exactly the same width as the first.

By sliding the piece slightly left-to-right before pushing forward to the blade, I can quickly clean up the remaining wood out of the notch. Then, I'll be ready to cut the next one.

[kramer katt]

Loring,
you are correct about the drill as index.
Since he (Suwat) didn't mention why the use of a drill bit instead of just a nail or pin
we can maybe suppose that given available range of bit sizes was the reason.
In his photos the bit looks pretty close to the kerf width.
And from your quick observation, that was a pretty essential point to leave out.
kk

[steve-norrell]

Here is a simple box joint jig that I downloaded from the Router Workshop a couple of years ago. I made mine out of MFD instead of UHMW plastic, but I think the UHMW would be better in the long run, especially if you use it a lot. It was relatively easy to make and has served me well since.

http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html

Lately, Rockler and MLCS (among others) have since come out with jigs that are very similar in design.

Regards, Steve

[phi1l]

This, of course, has to be the ultimate box joint jig.