3100 doesn't shut off

[trouper]

I noticed today that the power switch is somehow faulty. The saw stays on regardless of the switch position. What are my options? Is there a replacement part? Ryobi's web site doesn't load today for me at all. I prefer not to use the saw until I fix the switch.

[Uncle Cracker]

Sounds like the contacts inside the switch might be welded together. You can order a new switch online from M&D Mower. I'm curious about why this may have happened, as the switch has a good duty cycle, and the contacts are reliable at typical loads... Were you doing some severe work with the saw at the time of the failure? Do you possibly have an extension cord hooked up to power your saw, or something else that might lead to low voltage (and thus extra current draw)? It would after all be unfortunate if your new switch failed in a similar manner...

If the saw is a unit you recently purchased from someone else, maybe there will be no answers for the above questions, but at least you'll know perhaps why the saw was on the market...

[Pappy]

This was a problem on some 3100's. Ryobi was good about standing behind them according to others that had the problem.

[Richard in Smithville]

Seeing as this problem is not uncommon, has anyone replaced it with some other type of switch?( something that is a little less likely to weld)

[L. D. Jeffries]

Guess this isn't an isolated incident. I've replaced my switch a couple of years ago. Am in the process of changing it again for a "panic" stop type switch, and am moving it to where it should be, on the left side of the saw case. I have the power cord running into a standard receptacle that is switch controlled; then to the motor. This gives me an extra safety feature; I pull the plug to the motor whenever I am doing any blade changes, etc.

[tommyt654]

Unplug it from the wall.

[dbhost]

From what I understand, this switch problem was on the BT3100 (Push button switch) and not the BT3100-1 (paddle style switch). I have heard that Ryobi will send out a new switch. Not sure if it is for that or a different issue. Call Ryobi and find out...

[kevincan]

I had the same problem with my Sears 21829 (Sears version of BT3100). I contacted Ryobi instead of Sears and had a replacement sent out.

Do a search on switch failure here on the forum. There should be a lot of info available.

[LCHIEN]

some 3100's had an "underdesigned" switch - the contacts weld shut after repeated use - should be replaced for free by calling the Ryobi customer service 1-800 number with your date code or serial number from the back of the saw.

[LYU370]

Seeing as this problem is not uncommon, has anyone replaced it with some other type of switch?( something that is a little less likely to weld)

I got tired of taking my switch apart to clean it. Replaced it several years ago with a switch from Sears. Haven't had a problem since. Found the old post I made couple years back and it looks like they don't make that model anymore, but they do have a replacement.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showPart.pd?partNumber=OR91712&productGroupId=0009&supplierId=152&pathTaken=&filterPart=&pop=flush

Here's my switch...

[mclear]

This happened to me. Take the switch off, take it apart and put it back together. It fixed the problem for me. i had to unplug the saw the when it happened to me. I haven't had a problem since

[MK]

Call Ryobi and they will send you a better designed replacement. Same thing happened to mine about a year or so ago. I have the newer model (bought it just before HD stopped carrying it) with the paddle switch and it welded shut eventually.

[LCHIEN]

This happened to me. Take the switch off, take it apart and put it back together. It fixed the problem for me. i had to unplug the saw the when it happened to me. I haven't had a problem since

It'll probably work for a while then reoccur.
You can make it last longer by paralleling the second unused set of contacts cutting the current in half through each contact.

But the real solution is the new switch from Ryobi that has better plating ont he switch contacts to minimize the metal transferred when the swithc is opened and the inductive kick makes some additoinal current flow when breaking the contacts.
.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Does anyone know if there's a problem with leaving the switch "welded" in the ON position for regular use, if you've installed an additional switch (similar to what LYU370 did), but put in line between the saw switch and the saw's outlet/cord assembly?

[LCHIEN]

Does anyone know if there's a problem with leaving the switch "welded" in the ON position for regular use, if you've installed an additional switch (similar to what LYU370 did), but put in line between the saw switch and the saw's outlet/cord assembly?

probably won't hurt anything. But I'd consider it bad form to have a non functional live switch - could cause confusion if anyone else was ever to use the saw for whatever reason.