A rather basic rail setup question

[tjr]

On my BT3000, with the rip fence indicator fastened to the hole on the right side of the fence, if I set the rails so that the scale is correct then 0" on the scale is about 4" to the right of the blade. If I then put the SMT on the left side of the saw so its left side sits flush with the left end of the rails, I've got about a 3/4" gap between the right edge of the SMT and the left edge of the main saw top. So far that's been handy to clamp a Harbor Freight featherboard into.

Does this sound about right? How do you guys get enough space to fit a miter slot in there?

[dbhost]

I am not sure if this answers what you are asking. But I have dual miter slot tables, it takes some fooling with adjustments to get everything lined up, but it can be done.

[pelligrini]

On my 21829 I set my rails to align at 10" on my rip fence indicator with it on the right side of the blade. That leaves enough room for my narrower shop made dual miter/t-track slot to the left of the main table, my SMT, and then a 6" wide table on the end. I like having the additional support to the left side of the SMT. I've still got plenty of rail capacity to the right of the blade as I have a set of half rails installed on the right end. The 21829 rails are also 6" longer.

[LarryG]

On my BT3000, with the rip fence indicator fastened to the hole on the right side of the fence

IINM, you will need to move the indicator to the left-hand opening on the rip fence handle assembly. My now-retired BT3100 is set up like Dave shows in his picture; with the factory DMST between the main table and the SMT, there's just a half-inch or so of rail extending past the left side of the SMT.

[tjr]

Thanks, gents.

IINM, you will need to move the indicator to the left-hand opening on the rip fence handle assembly...

That would give approx 4.5" for a miter slot, does reduce max rip to 19.5", enough for everyday use. Guess that's why people like to add extra half or full rails. Also makes the extra 6" on the Sears handy.

[LarryG]

A 19.5" rip capacity with the indicator on the left sounds about right. When I built my Dual-Width Extension Wing, I used "half-rail" pieces that were 11" long and they increased the rip capacity to ~30.25".

[siliconbauhaus]

I must be odd but I always use a ruler to set the fence, I've never even looked at the scale.

[LCHIEN]

the rail with the scale can be positioned left or right. I don't believe there is a single "correct" position for the rail to get it to line up with zero. Its a convenience thing. If you get it to line up at true zero then the rail may not be positioned ideally for wide rips or some crosscuts. You move the rail when you need better rail position and give up the scale. If you like the scale, put it where you like it.

[chopnhack]

I must be odd but I always use a ruler to set the fence, I've never even looked at the scale.

Ditto!! With all the shuffling of rails to accommodate different rip cuts on sheets, etc. I have found it easier to measure with a tape and verify on scrap. I thought I was the only one suffering this way

[mschrank]

I must be odd but I always use a ruler to set the fence, I've never even looked at the scale.

You're not odd...or if you are you have company. My previous saws didn't have scales on the rails, so I got used measuring from the blade to the fence. Still do it that way.