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Hello,
Long time lurker here. Just joined up today.
I purchased a gently used BT3000 this past week and I noticed two things I will need to do immediately to it to make it like new. The saw is cosmetically in like new condition. It even has the red tag still on it and I have the original sales receipt with all documentation. Even the video LOL!
My 1st question will be about the shims. I don't know if one has slipped beyond view or is actually missing. I looked down the throat and could only see one. I'll have to tear into it later this week and see.
Could one use pop cans for shims ?
My second question / possible fix is about the rip fence.
The locking handle does not go all the way down to lock in place.
I take it about half way leaving it basically parallel with the table. It feels as if I were to apply enough pressure to fully engage the handle to below the table that I would do damage to some thing due to the pressure it would take to do it.
Yet with it only in half down position it does lock the fence firmly. Adjusting the rear locking mechanism's screw has no effect. Nor does turning the handle up front.
This may be due to improper replacement locking pad type ?
I think it has been replaced by the previous owner because it looks fairly new and not worn very badly at all. Perhaps he replaced it with a sears saw part instead of the Ryobi correct part ?
3rd question is about acceptable material to make a miter slot table for both the left and right hand side. Would MDF be an acceptable material with maybe a small angle iron backing for anti bow support underneath, followed up with some sort of L bracket housing t-bolts to lock into the rails ?
Long time lurker here. Just joined up today.
I purchased a gently used BT3000 this past week and I noticed two things I will need to do immediately to it to make it like new. The saw is cosmetically in like new condition. It even has the red tag still on it and I have the original sales receipt with all documentation. Even the video LOL!
My 1st question will be about the shims. I don't know if one has slipped beyond view or is actually missing. I looked down the throat and could only see one. I'll have to tear into it later this week and see.
Could one use pop cans for shims ?
My second question / possible fix is about the rip fence.
The locking handle does not go all the way down to lock in place.
I take it about half way leaving it basically parallel with the table. It feels as if I were to apply enough pressure to fully engage the handle to below the table that I would do damage to some thing due to the pressure it would take to do it.
Yet with it only in half down position it does lock the fence firmly. Adjusting the rear locking mechanism's screw has no effect. Nor does turning the handle up front.
This may be due to improper replacement locking pad type ?
I think it has been replaced by the previous owner because it looks fairly new and not worn very badly at all. Perhaps he replaced it with a sears saw part instead of the Ryobi correct part ?
3rd question is about acceptable material to make a miter slot table for both the left and right hand side. Would MDF be an acceptable material with maybe a small angle iron backing for anti bow support underneath, followed up with some sort of L bracket housing t-bolts to lock into the rails ?
LCHIEN
Loring in Katy, TX USA
But.. Like I said I'll just do the update and order a new guide plate, a couple belts a set of end caps, and the locking mechanism assembly on the far end of the fence. Its dirt cheap as well, but the reason I want to replace it is because the fence wants to cock left while pushing the clamp handle down and is throwing my cut line of towards the blade by about 1/8" at the far end. I can stop it by hand, pushing the opposite direction while locking the fence and it will stay true but I don't want to go through that with every width change on a rip. 
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