BT3000 13 amp brushes?

[dbhost]

I am not sure where to find a manual for an early BT3000, and I need to figure out just WHERE the brushes are on this motor, and if they are replaceable...

Has anyone here had experience with the 13 amp motor equipped saws? I'd really rather sell off a complete running saw, or get it to a broke friend that wants a decent saw, and see it used than part it out...

[richclemson]

I read somewhere the brushes on the 13 amp were only accessible when the plastic motor housing was removed...not sure how true that is. It seems than the first 15 amps had a cover on the back of the motor and now the newer 15 amps have the round covers. I have had no luck finding the old 15 amp brushes either...

[Jim Frye]

I am not sure where to find a manual for an early BT3000, and I need to figure out just WHERE the brushes are on this motor, and if they are replaceable...

Has anyone here had experience with the 13 amp motor equipped saws? I'd really rather sell off a complete running saw, or get it to a broke friend that wants a decent saw, and see it used than part it out...

The brushes on the 13 amp. motor are accessed by removing the plastic end cap on the motor. They simply slide in and are held in place by the springs. If you remove the right side cabinet cover the process is pretty easy. Brushes should be able to be sourced via any Ryobi Authorized service center. I bought an extra set many years ago and they were pretty cheap.

[dbhost]

Okay I found them, they are okay. Now I need to dig further and see just where the failure is... This is a bit of a PITA... Knowing my luck it's a switch...

[dbhost]

Okay, FWIW, the bottom side of this saw was very clean. Not perfect, but not caked up gummed up unmaintained nastiness either.

After I took the brushes out to inspect them, I noticed there was a LOT of dust in the motor housing. I have the housing out and apart, but am wondering how best to clean the dust out... I am thinking of taking it outside and blowing it out with compressed air.

Also, what would I check to make sure everything in the motor is on the up & up. I haven't been in an electric motor for over 15 years and my head is rusty here...

[master53yoda]

On a brush type motor if they have been run under excessive load or low voltage conditions the failure point is normally the commutator that the brushes run against. Look at the connection point of the motor windings to the commutator and between the commutator sections. an excessive over heat will throw the solder out of the commutator. Also make sure the brushes are not distorted and have consistent length between the two brushes. If the brushes show discoloration they need to be replaced. On the BT3X00 saw to check the switch, plug the saw directly into an extension cord and see how it runs. That will eliminate switch problems.

Look at the motor windings and verify that the insulation isn't burned, again discoloration of the windings is the tell tale sign. Normally if the windings have become hot enough to fail the commutator has spun the solder out already. Hope this helps

[dbhost]

On a brush type motor if they have been run under excessive load or low voltage conditions the failure point is normally the commutator that the brushes run against. Look at the connection point of the motor windings to the commutator and between the commutator sections. an excessive over heat will throw the solder out of the commutator.

Nope, looks good just dusty...

[quote\Also make sure the brushes are not distorted and have consistent length between the two brushes. If the brushes show discoloration they need to be replaced.[/quote]

One brush is noticeably shorter than the other. I guess now the trick would be, where to find brushes for the 13 amp motor.

On the BT3X00 saw to check the switch, plug the saw directly into an extension cord and see how it runs. That will eliminate switch problems.

So simple it should have been obvious, it wasn't. I did check with one of those outlet testers, on the end of the extension cord it shows good, on the outlet part of the in / outlet gizmo on the side of the saw, it shows hot / neutral reversed.

Look at the motor windings and verify that the insulation isn't burned, again discoloration of the windings is the tell tale sign. Normally if the windings have become hot enough to fail the commutator has spun the solder out already. Hope this helps

No discoloration, no burn marks or other obvious wear...

I wonder if I can contact Ryobi and get the part # for those brushes, and is the early 13amp model part of that switch recall? The switch "feels" odd.

[LCHIEN]

if its the green/red pushbuttons for on and off that switch was recalled and free replacements are available thru Ryobi cust service

[dbhost]

Yeah, green on top, red on bottom, pushbutton. It makes a crackly click noise when pushed...

[LCHIEN]

Yeah, green on top, red on bottom, pushbutton. It makes a crackly click noise when pushed...

do you need a copy of the FAQ?

[dbhost]

Probably... My copy went to bits and bytes heaven when my old hard disk failed...