Mount my Freud 1702 router on BT3000

[kaydee]

I picked up a used BT3000 recently and I also acquired that Freud router for a $100 last time when it went on sale.

The BT3000 has the router table attachment but no router mounting plate nor any inserts. How do I go about mounting the router to this table?

Use a 3/8" plywood and follow the BT3000 mounting template and cut the plywood, attach the router to this plate and bolt it to the router table accessory table from the bottom, using the existing holes in the table. However, this poses the problem with the circular inserts. The 3" dia. hole that exists on the router accessory table will be open. Is there any place I can get rings to cover that hole? Standard router mounting plates comes these insert rings.

Any help/pictures is much appreciated.

-kd

[pelligrini]

Welcome!

Making an insert out of plywood should work. I did one for my 21829 for a short time before I went with a router lift.

There are several sources for the inserts. Loring's FAQ lists a few. If you haven't seen it yet, you really ought to. Be sure to check the member classifieds here for the inserts as well.

[LCHIEN]

you can get inserts - they're the same for the BT3000/3100/sears 21829
the easy way is to go to www3.sears.com (yes the 3 is correct)
enter model number 315.218290
It will take you to a page on the saw. Select subcomponent "Accessory" then
order item 19, p/n A182011004-1
for $3.90 which is the set of rings. I believe they will fit all the BT3 saw models.

[poolhound]

KD,

If you just want to mount the router a plywood insert will work although to make it thick enough to properly support the router it will take some height off the bit.

If you are interested I still have an unused NIB full BT router kit that includes the plate, rings, router fence and dust port.



PM or email me if you are interested.

[pelligrini]

That kit is pretty handy. The OEM fence has a lot to be desired, but the stamped T-nuts, knobs, brackets, & bolts are good to have. I used the nuts & knobs when making my router table insert.

[reddog552]

router plate

I have this one for $10.00 = shiping

[kaydee]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I could have saved some shipping cost if I had known about the throat plate availability, when I ordered the blade replacement wrenches

I bought a decent Rockler router fence recently when it is/was on clearance ($29.99 part # 23517). I believe this fence will easily mount on the saw into the existing tracks -- will try that out this weekend.

Other than the base plate, throat plate set, fence and mounting bolts, do I need anything else to mount the router on the table?

This is a great forum, with many knowledgeable and helpful folks on it.

-kd

[LCHIEN]

...Other than the base plate, throat plate set, fence and mounting bolts, do I need anything else to mount the router on the table?

This is a great forum, with many knowledgeable and helpful folks on it.

-kd

Yeah, you might think about the rear lock for the aux table. The aux table has a built-in lock for the front so it won't slide but the back end can move - if your fence is locked to the rails but the table wags a bit then your cuts will be sloppy to say the least - and it will move since you are putting side-ways pressure on the router bit.

There is a lock mechanism in the router mtg kit that goes under the aux table and clamps the rear to the rear rail. You can devise a way to do that with some t-nuts, knobs and bits of stuff, or maybe order the parts, I have not looked into it really.

[dbhost]

You will want the aux table clamps that go on the back side to keep it from...

A. Slipping and moving.
B. Vibrating and making a god awful noise.

I use my accessory table as my router table with the OE fence brackets, but retrofitted with a MUCH beefier set of faces with Rockler T-track. HUGE improvement over stock. My router rig is about to get a SERIOUS update though as I have recently built an extension wing table, that will be fitted with a router plate, and slotted to take the fence, and a miter slot. The idea is to get the router to the end of the saw wing instead of the middle...