Question's for wide table owners

[chopnhack]

I am considering building a wide table for the bt3 and would like to know what you have found useful/what you would do differently if you had to build one again. My shop is currently empty and is in need of massive reorganization so that I can truly do the serious work I want to. Any and all help would be appreciated. Also, would you have preferred a separate router table or do you find it better for the two to be integrated.
Thanks

[RodKirby]

Wide table is great - 20% of the rips I do couldn't be done without it.

Applies to my "darkside" saw as well as the BT3000 I had.

If you have the room - a separate router table is the ONLY way to go. Eliminates the need to "share" a fence for ripping/routing.

[poolhound]

While I agree with Rod that in a perfect world with loads of space a separate router table would be best, combining the two has many advantages in a small shop.

I used to have a separate table but recently finsihed my BT extension base with the router table built in. It is so much more efficient in my shop as I can't have tools permanently sited so now when I move my TS into position I have both tools ready to go. I also gained more room and storage.

I built mine with only half rails which gives plenty of rip capacity and I built a seprate router fence so not to get into the fence sharing issue that Rod mentioned.

Thus far no "do differently" issues and I am really happy. The biggest joy in the new setup is the woodpecker quicklift. If you do decide to either integrate your router ot build a new table consider getting this lift - its awesome. Combined with my new table and fence it has made using the router a real pleasure. I still find myslef smiling every time I use it.

[Tom Miller]

I can't think of a good reason, other than saving space, to put the router into a TS extension. But that one reason was good enough for me! I will say it's certainly not the worst compromise you could make in the shop, and I'm rarely in a situation where it's a problem.

The good thing I'd do again: The fence I made for my router table registers parallel to the BT3 rails, much like the BT3 fence, allowing me to use the same microadjuster to adjust it. I rely on that a lot more than I thought I would.

I built my mobile base the width of 1 1/2 sets of rails, so the last 1/2 is cantilevered out. I can take that last half off when I need the mobility.

I added the extended table early on, and wouldn't be without it.

Regards,
Tom

[dbhost]

I can't fathom what the problem of using the TS fence to mount / adjust a router fence would be...

A proper router table top integrated into the extension wing is a HUGE bonus for space savings, and unless you are filthy rich, and perhaps even if you are... chances are space is ALWAYS an issue. Some guys simply build a table with slots and keyholes to allow them to use a separate fence for the router. A LOT of guys and gals don't like the Ryobi setup. I happen to like it to a limit. I am actually re-designing my fence, again, to still integrate the Ryobi rig, but bridge up above any bits I may use, to keep both halves of the fence even, and allow each fence face to adjust....

Either set on a purpose built cabinet, or using a cabinet / short rolling toolbox under the wing allows for added storage capacity.

Building a flat table top for the wide table kit that simply fills the space between the OE accessory table and a proper router table insert will allow you LOTS of additional flat surface for assembly afterward, and good support for wide crosscuts. With a full width set of Wide table kit rails the BT3100 has a rip capacity of 72", which I guess would actually be a crosscut at that point right?

I guess how useful a Wide table is would depend on what you like to use the space, and the saw for...

[LCHIEN]

... With a full width set of Wide table kit rails the BT3100 has a rip capacity of 72", which I guess would actually be a crosscut at that point right?

...

With using fence set off wide you're usually cutting sheet goods. Which have no real grain to speak of (maybe plywood has a grain on the veneer but that's not really grain of the whole sheet, just 1/32nd inch of the top)
So ripping or crosscutting is really a misnomer at that point except it helps to visualize based on the traditional meaning of rip and crosscut referring to using the rip fence or the miter fence.

[chopnhack]

Have any of the owners of wide table'd bt3's left some space on the left side of the blade? I was wondering because I would like to increase the ability of the saw when cutting sheet goods, its such a pain to break them down the current way.

[dbhost]

I haven't done that, but I have heard of folks that did do that....

Honestly, for ripping full sheets, I still use a cutting guide and my Skil Saw...

[180x]

I haven't done that, but I have heard of folks that did do that....

Honestly, for ripping full sheets, I still use a cutting guide and my Skil Saw...

I have the wide table setup on my bt3 clone with some space to the left, but rarely use it for cutting down sheet goods. I too use a cutting guide and circular saw. Now that I have purchased a Festool TS 75 (got a practically brand new one for $375) I probably won't use it @ all for that.

[poolhound]

Have any of the owners of wide table'd bt3's left some space on the left side of the blade? I was wondering because I would like to increase the ability of the saw when cutting sheet goods, its such a pain to break them down the current way.

Even if I had large full size saw with extension and outfeed I am not sure I would try and cutdown a full sheet on my own. My wide table ha a rip capacity of approx 41" so with one cut with a CS on the floor I can manhandle and cut it down on the BT from then on.

[LarryG]

I can't fathom what the problem of using the TS fence to mount / adjust a router fence would be

The possibility of interference between the two functions, mainly. There are times when the fence might have been carefully set for one operation and you would prefer to leave it that way while you use the other tool.

Have any of the owners of wide table'd bt3's left some space on the left side of the blade? I was wondering because I would like to increase the ability of the saw when cutting sheet goods, its such a pain to break them down the current way.

A good dodge for this is a extra-long sawhorse built to match the height of the saw (or, better yet, adjustable in height) and placed parallel to the feed direction. One nice side benefit is that the horse can be moved laterally as desired, to best suit the length of whatever you're crosscutting. Another is that the horse takes up little room, and can be stashed elsewhere when it's not needed.

As mentioned, however, there's a limit to what one person working alone can handle when cutting down sheet goods. It's a function of how much space is available, how good your infeed/outfeed supports are, and one's personal comfort level. I have a full-size cabinet saw with a 50" fence and I still turn to my trusty Skil 77 for breakdown work most of the time.

[cabinetman]

If you have the room, having the space to the left of the blade can be useful. I don't have a BT, but with a 50" fence, I've had the right side against the wall for a full fence function, like splitting full sheet stock.

If you don't have the room for a fixed table, a flip up, or a temp setup, like with roller stands makes those cuts easier to handle. Even with more than one router table setup, I've always liked to have one mounted to the right side table of the table saw, utilizing the TS fence. If for some reason the fence setting was necessary, resetting the fence is not a concern.
.

[pelligrini]

Have any of the owners of wide table'd bt3's left some space on the left side of the blade? I was wondering because I would like to increase the ability of the saw when cutting sheet goods, its such a pain to break them down the current way.

I've got a 21829, and it has to fold up at the end of every day. I've got my rails set as far to the left of the blade as I can and still allow the saw to fold. There is room on the left for my custom miter slot (about half the width of a BT dual slot) the SMT and a 6" wide table insert at the ends of the rails. There wasn't enough room for the SMT and another accessory table. I like having the outside support for the SMT when cutting some long stock, especially when using the long rip fence in place of the regular miter fence.

I have a set of half rails permanently fastened to my 48" long 21829 rails. With the space on the left side, and the extra capacity on the right I hardly ever need more. On that rare occasion, I'll temporarily bolt on a full size wide table kit.

I still like using a sawboard and a CS to get large sheet goods to a rough size.

I am considering building a wide table for the bt3 and would like to know what you have found useful/what you would do differently if you had to build one again. My shop is currently empty and is in need of massive reorganization so that I can truly do the serious work I want to. Any and all help would be appreciated. Also, would you have preferred a separate router table or do you find it better for the two to be integrated.
Thanks

Think about your rail connections and how your accessory table, other tables will attach to your fence. The plate connectors are easy, but they can get in the way of an accessory table. The normal culprit is the plate on the inside tracks. It didn't take me long to get rid of those inside plates. I really like doing an insert connector that goes inside the rail extrusions, and maybe a bottom plate if needed. I have a set of half rails permanently fastened to my 48" 21829 rails.

[chopnhack]

First, thank you for your input! I am brainstorming and with such limited shop time lately, any and all advice is welcomed.

hmmm....I must be missing something
I thought that having the wide table was ideal for ripping down plywood and what not. If the sawboard and sidewinder is still better than the t.s. then why build the wide table?

Since you have built your table what have you done that was easier or not even possible without it?

Thanks

[HarmsWay]

I use a circ saw with a guide to cut unwieldy pieces or maybe ones that don't need the accuracy of a table saw. So if I had a sheet of 3/4 MDF that I needed accurately cut I might cut it slightly oversize with the circ saw then finish it on the table saw. I can't imagine not having the wide table with my BT3 and I've done cuts that were close to the full width.

Bob