Rip fence difficult to slide

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  • Grandpa Jones

    #1

    Rip fence difficult to slide

    Hi all,

    Been cleaning up the BT3000 I found on CL. The two plastic slide blocks in the
    rip fence head are a very tight fit in the front rail top slot. I thought perhaps
    the front rail had a damaged section, so I removed the slide blocks from the
    rip fence head, and checked the fit of the blocks along the entire length of the
    top slot in the front rail. They are uniformly tight the full length of the slot.

    Considering removing some material from the width of the slide blocks, but
    I'm not sure if this would affect the squaring of the rip fence if done
    incorrectly.

    Anyone else run into this problem?

    Thanks,

    Dave
  • leehljp
    The Full Monte
    • Dec 2002
    • 8686
    • Tunica, MS
    • BT3000/3100

    #2
    Welcome Dave. I am sure there is someone here that can answer that particular question. I don't remember that problem coming up. I do have a BT myself.
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

    Comment

    • Richard in Smithville
      Veteran Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 3014
      • On the TARDIS
      • BT 3100

      #3
      Hello Dave and welcome to the forum. I had a look at my BT and I wonder if the blocks are not running parallel to each other. This would cause some twisting effects and make the fence stick. I don't think removing any material from the blocks will benifit you.
      From the "deep south" part of Canada

      Richard in Smithville

      http://richardspensandthings.blogspot.com/

      Comment

      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #4
        You might try rubbing some wax paper on the blocks and the contact areas on the rails before you get into messing with the blocks.
        Erik

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Super Moderator
          • Dec 2002
          • 21732
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          i think waxing the blocks and ther rails will have bad implications down later - people who have waxed the rails end up withthe T-block lifting off the raisl when they clamp it.

          I also think that trimming the blocks would be a bad idea as they were molded, fit originally, and nothing should be "growing"

          My first suspicion woul be too much saw dust jamming everything up, although if you've had it apart that could be out the window. The roller wheel in the back is also susceptible to too much sawdust and should be cleaned an lubed intil it rolls freely.
          If the screw adjusting the point at which the clamp tightens up is too far in then the clamp could be clamping too early. THis screw is in the very back of the rip fence.

          This (plastic slides too tight) is certainly not an issue that's come up before and i have been on this forum for years and the Ryobi one before that. I'd look around at other issues and if you haven't, read my FAQ.
          Last edited by LCHIEN; 06-20-2009, 11:52 AM.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

          • John Hunter
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2004
            • 2034
            • Lake Station, IN, USA.
            • BT3000 & BT3100

            #6
            Is it possible that one of the rails is turned? Seems I remember someone running into that problem.
            John Hunter

            Comment

            • dbhost
              Slow and steady
              • Apr 2008
              • 9457
              • League City, Texas
              • Ryobi BT3100

              #7
              I was going to tell you to double check the way the rails are installed, that they are square and all... I seem to recall someone else having a similar problem with a front rail that had gotten somewhat twisted. It's an odd problem though...

              Wish I could see how all the bits and pieces line up on yours, but that would be a VERY difficult set of photos to take...
              Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

              Comment

              • eezlock
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2006
                • 997
                • Charlotte,N.C.
                • BT3100

                #8
                rip fence difficult to slide

                Dave, it sounds as if your fence rails are not mounted properly. I think that
                the rails should be checked with the fence removed from the saw.
                Take a little time and a good set of calipers and check the clearances
                between the saw body and rails at several locations on each rail. I think that
                you will probably find that the distances from one end of the saw to the other
                is not the same, and be sure to check both front and back rails. It would also be a good time to see if the rails are level, as this minor fault could cause some binding when you try and move the fence.Lets us know if this solves your problem.

                Comment

                • leehljp
                  The Full Monte
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 8686
                  • Tunica, MS
                  • BT3000/3100

                  #9
                  Originally posted by eezlock
                  Dave, it sounds as if your fence rails are not mounted properly. I think that
                  the rails should be checked with the fence removed from the saw.
                  Take a little time and a good set of calipers and check the clearances
                  between the saw body and rails at several locations on each rail. I think that
                  you will probably find that the distances from one end of the saw to the other
                  is not the same, and be sure to check both front and back rails. It would also be a good time to see if the rails are level, as this minor fault could cause some binding when you try and move the fence.Lets us know if this solves your problem.
                  I used my saw today and looked at the fence very closely. Eezlock's suggestion came to mind. It should slide fairly easy unless one or both of the rails are not mounted to the saw correctly. The mounting bosses have caused a few people problems if they are turned wrong or one of the rails is not seated correctly.

                  A second problem that I thought of was the fact that the back latch could be mis-adjusted as Loren suggested. It should hook under the lip and when the handle is up, it should be free of the rear rail lip and allow the fence to slide.
                  Hank Lee

                  Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                  Comment

                  • Black wallnut
                    cycling to health
                    • Jan 2003
                    • 4715
                    • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
                    • BT3k 1999

                    #10
                    Reference below pics for correct rail orientation:


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                    marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

                    Head servant of the forum

                    ©

                    Comment

                    • Grandpa Jones

                      #11
                      Thank you all for your replies, the more I look at this saw the more it
                      appears that it was largely unloved. You've given me plenty of tips
                      to get it set up properly.

                      Thanks,

                      Dave

                      Comment

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