Router Plates

[Bill Stock]

I purchased a Triton Router for my BT3100 a while back and I finally got around to trying to mount it yesterday. Well the frickin holes I drilled in the plate don't match the holes in the Triton. (Maybe I should have posted this under I'm an Idiot 3 ) Three are OK, but the fourth is off enough to be useless and close enough to ruin the plate. I hoped to find a blank on eBay, but I only see the kits.

I've always wanted to replace the router table anyway, so I guess now is the time. But which plate, the only well liked ones I see are the Woodpecker aluminum. The $99 is bad enough, but they use UPS to ship to Canada, which means it will be about $200 after brokerage, gouging, etc. The only name brands I see locally are the Rosseau and Jessem. The Rosseau seemed to get a lot of flack for not being flat and the rings being hard to remove. The 'universal' cheapies I see are very short on specs. Any thoughts or local (Toronto) favourites.

[RayintheUK]

The Rosseau seemed to get a lot of flack for not being flat and the rings being hard to remove.

I don't want to start yet another debate about Rousseau plates not being flat (which is not discernible to the naked eye and deliberate anyway), but I've had two genuine Rousseaus for many years now and they've never given me a moment's trouble or concern. My Triton TRB001 has hung beneath these plates, which still allow above-the-table bit changing. I'd recommend them to anyone.

I'm assuming that you've got the TRB001 (also sold as TRA001 and TRC001), rather than the (smaller) MOF001. If so, I've written a dismantling (for cleaning or part replacement) page here.

If you do have the smaller router, then it's page is here. I hope that they may help you one day.

Ray

Ray

[LCHIEN]

If you drill a set of holes that don't work right (nice terms for wrong placement), then the only real requirement is that the router still be centered. Try rotating the drill pattern 15 degrees or so. You'll end up with an extra set of holes (They can be drilled out and plugged perhaps if they bother you an to reduce confusion when remounting the router). Unless you need the router angled exactly so you can rotate it any amount and still work properly. You don't need to buy a new plate.

if you must have a new plate, use a router pattern bit to copy the existing plate outline and center hole into 1/2" MDF and then rabbet the edge with a rabbetting bit to fit the ledge.

Finally, likely your drill bit wandered off when drilling, not uncommon, esp. with aluminum or other slightly harder (that wood) material. Make sure you mark carefully, use a pilot hole (Center punch), drill with a drill press and use small, then progressively larger bits to drill the hole.

[Bill Stock]

My Triton TRB001 has hung beneath these plates, which still allow above-the-table bit changing. I'd recommend them to anyone.

I'm assuming that you've got the TRB001 (also sold as TRA001 and TRC001), rather than the (smaller) MOF001. If so, I've written a dismantling (for cleaning or part replacement) page here.

If you do have the smaller router, then it's page is here. I hope that they may help you one day.

Ray

Ray

Thanks Ray, Ive got the larger one, TRA001 I believe.

Have you ever done any Rail & Stile work with your Rosseau? That was the biggest issue I saw when cruising Amazon. I've only done them once, but will likely being doing more down the road.

[herb fellows]

I saw an interesting video on youtube about a guy cutting up a piece of (marble?) as an insert for a router table. Dead flat, won't flex etc. If I remember correctly, he even showed how to do the countersinks for the router screws. One more of those things I've never gotten around to trying.

[Bill Stock]

Try rotating the drill pattern 15 degrees or so. You'll end up with an extra set of holes Unless you need the router angled exactly so you can rotate it any amount and still work properly. You don't need to buy a new plate.

This did occur to me, it will just make the controls that much harder to get at. Plus there's the PMO factor.

if you must have a new plate, use a router pattern bit to copy the existing plate outline and center hole into 1/2" MDF and then rabbet the edge with a rabbetting bit to fit the ledge.

I considered building the new extension table without a plate for now, but I wondered how the screwholes would hold up in the MDF and also how much sagging there would be. But the biggest issue would be the hole size of course.

Finally, likely your drill bit wandered off when drilling, not uncommon, esp. with aluminum or other slightly harder (that wood) material. Make sure you mark carefully, use a pilot hole (Center punch), drill with a drill press and use small, then progressively larger bits to drill the hole.

Yeah, I actually have a hinge punch and I'm pretty sure I used it, that's why I was a bit puzzled by the result. It's been QUITE a while since I bought the Triton, the drill press burned out along the way while countersinking the holes in the router plate. So after a new DP and better countersink I finally got back to it recently. I've been limping along with the Ryobi router and RL (Real Life) has been too busy to get back to the Triton.

[Bill Stock]

I saw an interesting video on youtube about a guy cutting up a piece of (marble?) as an insert for a router table. Dead flat, won't flex etc. If I remember correctly, he even showed how to do the countersinks for the router screws. One more of those things I've never gotten around to trying.

Sounds interesting. I did consider buying a piece of Lexan and making my own. I can relate to the stuff you haven't gotten around too; my STD (Sh*t To Do) jar is overflowing.

[RayintheUK]

Have you ever done any Rail & Stile work with your Rosseau? That was the biggest issue I saw when cruising Amazon.

I made a complete kitchen from scratch, which involved 18 doors, all the rails and stiles for which were made using two matched bits from a CMT bit set and the Rousseau. Sweet as a nut.

Ray

[LCHIEN]

This did occur to me, it will just make the controls that much harder to get at. Plus there's the PMO factor.



....

IMHO 15 degrees (and you can go right or left) will not make much difference in the operation of the controls.
But it's your money.

[rrakers]

it might be a lot cheaper and more efficient to just buy a ryobi router that fits those holes. that's what i eventually did. save the triton for other duties.

[bigstick509]

it might be a lot cheaper and more efficient to just buy a ryobi router that fits those holes. that's what i eventually did. save the triton for other duties.

That's exactly what I did. As I remember I got the 2 1/4 model.

[Bill Stock]

Yeah, I already have an old Ryobi, might be 1.75. It's a little wimpy and the collet slips. I intend to use it freehand and put the Triton in the table.

I've drilled the new plate for the Triton and once I get my SMT issues resolved I'll finish the extension.

[dbhost]

My Hitachi KM12VC uses 3 mounting holes, 2 lined up dead on to OE Ryobi holes from the mount kit. I had to drill and countersink one... I know you missed the $99.00 lightning deal on them, but even at full price they are a great router...

Maybe you can track down one of the remaining Freud Avanti routers, I hear they fit well too...

Another option would be build your own plate from 1/4" aluminum stock...